Roy Hersh: Medium-dark scarlet hue, with a bricking edge. Finally! After two previous experiences with this Port (formerly my personal “holy grail”)—one a weak, overtly mature showing and the other badly infected by TCA—I was genuinely hopeful this would provide a proper representation. It showcased swirling purity of redcurrants, an earthy trio of tree bark, cinnamon stick, and smoky leather notes, along with a knockout punch of sweet crème brûlée. Medium-bodied yet viscous, with lavish layers of plum and blackberry flavors and underlying structure from focused acidity and caressing tannins. This exemplary nonagenarian belied its age by several decades, highlighted by its everlasting sweet finish. A profound Vintage Port, even more so with nine decades of age. I’ll never forget this Whitwham’s bottle of 1927 Fonseca, the finest Port of the tasting—a complete wine in every possible sense.
Details
Wine expert | Roy Hersh |
Tastings year | 2017 |
Region | Douro Valley |