Simon Field: Lively russet coloring and a spirited nose. Palate’s sweetness not fully integrated with the wood; a little awkward, but the tangy citric notes lend character and potential. 15.5

Richard Mayson: Red-tinged mahogany. Forceful aroma of demerara sugar; very rich, almost unctuous in style. Impressive in its sweetness and concentration, but I am not sure that I could drink very much of this, despite the lovely finish. A beautiful one-glass wine. 16.5

Margaret Rand: Coffee nose. A pungent palate, with vivid fruit (even at this age) and spice. It’s very powerful and lively; showy, even. 16.5