Jesús Barquín:Reddish mahogany brown with amber rim. Candied fruit and a touch of rancio in a markedly spicy context. Then, on the palate, there is an obvious orange-peel and mushroomy flavor, quite sweet. Alcohol is well integrated, and the finish is complex and long but lacks some definition. 89

Andrew Jefford:Dark, glowing russet red in color. Lots of rue, orange marmalade, and lime marmalade, too, with sweet apple and orange fruits. Intense, deep, long, searching—perhaps the most concentrated of all of its peer group and, like so many of them, now exhibiting a marked tension between the overweening sweetness of the wine as fortified and the rising acidity and bitter spectrum of flavors that time has brought. Great clarity and focus, too. An outstanding effort. 92

Richard Mayson:Lovely, relatively pale bright, red-tinged mahogany color; lifted but dusty nose with more than a hint of meaty dog biscuits; rich, meaty initially, and intensely sweet yet rather unbalanced and rustic in style. A wine to respect, but not my style. How to mark? 84