Jesús Barquín: Nose of exotic fruit, guava confiture, lemon zest, and a background of graphite (lead pencil). The palate confirms, even expands, the tropical exuberance, though it is now fresher. As in previous cases, I must admit that these Touriga Nacional-dominated reds—much as they have their fans—are not my cup of tea, and this must show in my—inevitably subjective— ratings. 14.5

Alex Hunt: Markedly more aromatic than any other Douro wine here, with almost Muscatty grape and rose-petal notes, alongside dried herbs and cooked banana. This grapey/floral aroma is so alien that it fails to contribute to the palate, which is surprisingly dry and foursquare, finishing on alcohol. Individual, certainly, but not a huge success. 14

Andrew Jefford: Dense, opaque black-red. Very floral, with a strong citrus note, and some jasmine behind, almost as if a little Syrah had crept into this. Not as “classical” as most, but gosh, you don’t half want to sip after getting a sniff of this wine. On the palate, the profile is the same: It’s sheerer than most, with a more prominent cascade of fruit, and that fruit has all of the aromatic, Maghreb exoticism that was apparent on the nose. There isn’t the weight or amplitude of the other star wines, nor the same aromatic complexity. It is, though, smooth, poised and lovely—just different. Varieties or site? Anyway: welcome. 16.5