Nicolas Belfrage: Mid-depth ruby with the beginnings of turn on the rim. Inviting nose of dark berry and fine oak, slightly waxy in positive mode. A mouthful of sweet ripe fruit cut by good but not excessive acidity and fine grainy tannins. Has real charm and length, drinking soon (from 2016 for at least 10 years). 17.5

Bruno Besa: Dark garnet to pink. Complex mineral nose with dark mature black fruit, restrained and spicy. Wonderfully sweet red-and-black-fruit nose, with lively acidity and supersoft tannins. Balanced, wonderfully complex Sangiovese. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Dark red to garnet rim. Attractively gentle, complete aromas, without the intrusion of too much oak, so that you smell the earth and the oak copse and the dark berries rather than the winery. Somber, shadowy, and gratifying. I go back to this wine (which was served first) after having tried all 35, and I have to say this is really one of the finest of all the aromas on show: wonderful concision and finesse. On the palate, this is a wealthy, rich, resonant, amply textured wine with a magnificent repertoire of allusions: dark black fruits, stones, thorns, leaf litter, a touch of fine leather, root spices, and much else. Ample, unapologetic ripeness: outstanding Brunello. 18.5