Nicolas Belfrage: Medium-deep. Reduced or overoaked? Plenty of Porty sweet fruit on the finish, perhaps a bit too much, but ripeness is not in question, only balance. Very well made, but—hang on—does Brunello have to be rich? Good but not quite balanced yet. 15.5

Stephen Brook: Sweet glossy cherry nose. Broad, plump, full-bodied, with weight and depth. A ripe imposing wine, with powerful tannins but also plenty of cut and bite. It’s both chewy and lifted. At the moment, it’s all swagger and arm-wrestling, but the fruit quality is very fine, and it clearly has ample structure. Not harmonious yet, but with this kind of drive and persistence, it will both go the distance and gain complexity with age. 18

Andrew Jefford: Deep, glowing black-red. Subtle, refined, composed: a mosaic of leaf, mint, cherry, earth, and acorn. As with all the best wines in this tasting, it is the subtlety and understatement with which these elements are brought together that keeps you returning time and again to the glass. Intense, lively, concentrated, and dancing, with lots of acid-driven mouth attack, yet redeemed by a wealth of coating extracts, too. A complete wine, and one that quivers with aromatic resonances. Perhaps not as beautifully unholstered as the very best, yet the intensity, drive, thrust, and allusiveness of this wine have it snapping at their heels. Magnificently concentrated; supremely Tuscan. 18