Nicolas Belfrage: Quite deep. Coffee and spice and herb on the nose, rather than fruit. Chunky ripe cherry-berry (blackberry) fruit on the palate, not of the finest, but hey, plenty packed. Coffee comes up again on the finish, with lots of tannin and rich ripe fruit. Drink from 2017. 89

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Almost overwhelming black fruits on the oaky nose, with power and density. The attack is voluptuous, but there are massive tannins here and a lot of alcohol. Very imposing, but a touch vulgar, too, striving to impress. So I find it hard to assess. On the one hand, I’m bowled over by the sheer weight of fruit, but on the other it lacks nuance and is too in-your-face. Yet it’s not jammy and does seem balanced, and it’s a wine that’s easy to enjoy and admire, so I shall give it the benefit of the doubts I do have. Long, chocolaty finish. 90

Andrew Jefford: Saturatedly dark black-red: in color, one of the deepest wines in the tasting. The fruit here is just a little bit dry and raisiny, aromatically speaking, but there’s a creamy sweetness and an incipient complexity stealing in, which is very attractive. Hugely concentrated, rich and structured on the palate, with perhaps slightly lower acidity than most, but nonetheless this is Sangiovese, so acidity is never really what you’d call “low” in Bordeaux or the Southern Rhône. I love this, I have to say; there’s such refinement, complexity, and resonant austerity buried in those tannins. For some it will be a little overripe, but I think it is merely splendidly ripe—and from great vineyards, too. 92