Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, nearly opaque. Plenty of fruit and a touch of leather on the nose. Creamy texture, good fruit/acid balance, nice concentration, and a longish finish. Good Brunello. 16

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to thin pink rim. Open, mature, smoky nose, with small black fruits; a touch rustic and developed. Full body and firm palate, again rustic; nevertheless generous and fairly long. 16

Andrew Jefford: Dark, dense black-red. Deep, sweet, rich, and fleshy nose, but not huge aromatic finesse. On the palate, it is a supremely generous, openpored, accessible yet rewarding wine, which I’d love to drink: deep, intrinsically complex fruit and dense, reverberative tannins. There is a huge amount here; inspiring and provocative, full of the woodland refinement of its origins. Very good wine, nibbling at “outstanding” but not quite getting there without just a little more aromatic refinement. But no one will be disappointed. 16.5