Nicolas Belfrage: Deepish color, almost opaque. Morello cherry and blackberry on both nose and palate, firm but ripe tannins and good acidity. Will be drinking soon, has plenty of character, as well as force to last through the years. 90

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink rim. Ripe almost vegetal nose with black-cherry jam. Overripe with green tannins. 84

Andrew Jefford: Wow: a dark brooder in color. The most deeply colored wine of the tasting? Chunky, rough-cut plum and prune for the aromas, with generous prune sweetness, too. You don’t sip it so much as unload it on to the palate, and out it comes, pounding, generous, warm, exuberant, full of life and power, depth, and density, plants and fruits. In a way, it’s a puzzle when it comes to marking, but I’m taking the route of simple enjoyment rather than stylistic dogma: This is one of the most generous wines on the table today, and you’d need a churlish palate not to get great pleasure from it. 87