Nicolas Belfrage: Deepish with the start of turn on the rim. Classic nose of morello cherry and flower. Classic palate, too, firm acid and ripe tannin embracing expressive fruit with the signature Porty hit at the back. Good length. Drink from 2017. 90

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny. Closed, complex, forest-floor nose, with prunes, smoke, mushrooms, and figs. Balanced palate, with sweet fruit well balanced by the tannic grip. Long and enjoyable. A smoky Barolo that should age well over the next decade. 92

Andrew Jefford: Clear and translucent. Sweet, warm, swimmy and mushroomy: attractive, very secondary aromas, though some might miss the primary throb. Elegant, lively, and very secondary; no evident fresh fruit left now, but it’s been spun in the cellar into a tapestry of nutty, wild-mushroom poise. Stealthy, unique, gratifying, and the antithesis (one might note in passing) of “New World appeal.” Despite all the secondary notes, it is actually a very easy wine to drink and to enjoy thanks to the fact that the 2011 tannins are so unforbidding. Splendid stuff. For tannin lovers (like me). 90