Stephen Brook: Muted nose, ripe citrus. Lush and creamy, but also rather broad and overblown; lacks crispness and bite and finesse. Certainly a good mouthful of fruit, but perhaps not the structure or concentration for very long aging. Moderate length. 15

Margaret Rand: Minerally and coffee/chocolate fruit. Intense and with great concentration and very good balance. Classic and characterful, seamless. A well-constructed wine that will last for years. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Very pale greenish straw. Evident botrytis—very nervy and exciting and lifted. Quite airborne and should live for quite a while. Still pretty astringent on the finish, but certainly convincing in the classic idiom. So unctuous yet refreshing… Could slake a thirst, this. Drink 2010–25. 18.5