Stephen Brook: Dumb nose; trace of caramelized oranges. Medium-bodied but very intense and silky, high acidity, pineapple. Very tight and inexpressive but has the fierce concentration of a TBA. Little evident complexity, but the impressive structure keeps that hidden for now. Superb length. 19

Margaret Rand: Bright, floral nose, bright palate, very concentrated and creamy. Intense and very big; taut, and with enormous length. A wine for the long term, though with enough transparency and lightness to drink now. The finish is taut, intense, and very long. 18

Jancis Robinson: Very complex and nutty—quite a different nose and intensity to the Mosel BA. So rich and yet reverberates—a textbook lesson in botrytis and its effects? Very young, almost painfully so. An exceptional level of both acidity and sugar. This wine deserves a very long wait. Amazing layers on the finish, even though they are hardly formed. Drink 2020–50. 19.5