Alison Buchanan: Fathomless prune-mahogany. This is almost rum-like in its intensity. Seville oranges and caramelized fruit are immediately appealing on both nose and palate. Dried-fruit intensity is the dominant force on the palate, complemented by citrus and stone fruit allure. Balanced and creamy, on an earthy, mineral finish. 16.5

Jesús Barquín: Mahogany, opaque. Complex and serious, with evident oxidation, somewhat vinous, on both nose and palate, where it shows itself elegant and harmonious; only odd notes of tapenade distract. The finish displays finesse and complexity again. 16.5

Julian Jeffs: Deep color. Good varietal nose. Shows a touch of complexity and age. 14.5