Simon Field: Attractive russet coloring, classic nose of dried fruit and school library. Palate rich, spirity, still a little edgy after all these years. Excellent balance of sugar, wood, and acidity; very complete, and still with a long way to go. 17

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep red-tinged tawny. Rich but subdued on the nose, slightly caramelized toffee fruit, lovely texture: smooth and silky initially, yet with a vestige of mouth-puckering tannin on the finish. Rich and toffee-like. 16

Margaret Rand: Another heavyweight, but with more complexity and a better balance between weight and perfume. A serious wine, with transparent depths of flavor; vivid and confident. Very moreish, with a huge, long, complex finish. 18