Simon Field: Lighter of hue: tinges of copper and early fall. Nose a little unformed, hints of tar and barrel, with dried fruits and molasses fighting to get out. Palate gentle, rather reticent, orange peel and malt. A pretty example but lacking a little gravitas. 15

Richard Mayson: Pale amber-orange. Baked aromas with some savory, toasty/nutty character underlying. Fresh, zesty, yet soft, savory dry flavors with a marmalade tang. Good balance and fine sinewy length. Plenty of character. 15.5

Margaret Rand: The nose needs a bit of coaxing—it’s slightly solid and dumb—and the palate is sound but without enormous complexity. It probably suffers from the seductiveness of the first wine (1989 D’Oliveiras Sercial Colheita), but it’s a bit underpowered. Sound but dull. 13