Simon Field: Medium intensity of color; a typical nose with notes of rancio slightly overpowering. On the palate, this is confirmed; the structure is veiled and the mouthfeel almost cloying. 14

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber (again quite pale for Malmsey). Clean but slightly nondescript, hinting at quince and dried apricots. Fresh quince-marmalade character with a dusty astringency on the finish. Worthy but dull. 13.5

Margaret Rand: Smoky, linear nose. Very elegant wine, complex: rich, sweet fruit with a dry edge. A wine that sings. Concentrated and limpid, refreshing and enlivening. Lovely balance. 18.5