Simon Field: Coloring lacks a little of the sheen of its peers, but nose has hazelnuts and (unusually) hints of red fruits. Palate evolved, oxidative for once used as a negative, and a little short. Perfectly fine, but not top-flight. 14.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber. Distinctly pruney on the nose with a hint of Bovril. Clean but dull, lacking texture and concentration, with a simple, pruney, spirity finish. 12

Margaret Rand: Smoky nose, correct. Terribly correct, actually: It has smoke and nuts and structure and elegance and balance. I’m not sure that it has enormous character, but it can’t be faulted. 16.5