Nicolas Belfrage: Almost opaque with garnet rim. Coffee grounds and tar mingle with dried fruit on the nose. Slightly tough on the palate, but with rich fruit behind, well-stated finish, with sweet Porty notes and very good length. Barolo of the no-holds-barred school; well-made wine. Drink 2015–30. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Dense red-black to deep garnet at the rim. Not a hugely articulate aroma, but plenty there nonetheless: a wad of red fruit, steadily growing earthier by the day. A touch dusty, too. On the palate, plenty to satisfy, and a lovely glowing warmth to the ripeness, which echoes around the mouth. Solid and companionable Barolo. 15

Franco Ziliani: Dark color, more violet than ruby. Very ripe and overripe fruit, with oaky, toasty notes that dominate. No great elegance or freshness. Very ripe fruit, oak, harsh and bitter tannins, astringent on the finish. Very young, but I don’t think it will get better. Modern “old” style. 14