Simon Field | Onyx at the core, a garnet fade reluctantly working its way down the glass, but the overall impression is of smoky intensity, bay leaf, fig, black pepper, and an enthralling ripeness of fruit—the year was hot, after all, if not universally declared. Something soapy behind that: Parma violet and summer flowers. The palate is very approachable; more single-quinta than Vintage maybe, the complexity and delicately leavened flavors harmonious in the first instance but with the spirit quite assertive as a backdrop. Overall, an unassuming, proudly upstanding testament to a more than worthy effort in a pleasingly anonymous year, in terms of Vintage Port at least. | 89

Andrew Jefford | Just a single wine from this vintage, but you can instantly see that it is far, far more promising than the miserable 1987s: dark opaque black-red at the core and only reluctantly scarlet at the rim. A real looker: serious and purposeful. Excellent on the palate, too. It does not have much width and velvet; you can see acidity, and the fruits are energetic, athletic, penetrating, and dancing. But it is primary and fresh and has real wealth of flavor, albeit in this rather incisive kind of style, which is evidently a reflection of its vintage. There are some terrific supporting tannins, and it is relatively young and evolved for a 30-year-old. An excellent buy and with some years left under its belt. A shame we didn’t have a few more ’89s to look at, assuming this wine is typical. | 93

Richard Mayson | Very deep and opaque in hue, withathin browning rim; stewed, soupy, and extractive on the nose with underlying (over)ripeness. Similarly hot and soupy on the palate: big bold tannins and a hot, spirity finish. | 79