Simon Field | Obsidian tar-like hue, the ancient of days; the nose is attractive in an understated fashion, with wet earth, briary and incense to the fore, vestigial fruit from the drier end of the spectrum. The fruit, on the palate, is more open and forgiving, spice and pepper in support, a balletic grip, a refusal to overwhelm, and a pleasing eucalypt freshness on the finish. Aeration underlines the virtues of the piece; the denouement is subtle, yet satisfying. None of the lead characters die. I hope I am not giving too much away... | 92

Andrew Jefford | This is, along with [Dow’s and Graham’s], one of a triumvirate of very dark Vintage wines from 1985; it’s a little darker and more saturated than [Graham’s], but not quite as primary purple at this stage as [Dow’s]. Very purposeful, deep, and youthful in visual terms, in sum. It is the sweetest and warmest to smell of the three, with very opulent ripe bramble fruits, almost a kind of toastiness (toasted almond rather than bread), and a kind of milky or creamy fullness, too. Different from the others, but no less beguiling. Broad-brush aromas and deeply inviting. On the palate, it is probably the deepest-textured of the three, the richest and most raisiny, the most tannic: a steamroller of tightly pressed berries, mingled with tar and treacle, with herbs and root spice. It’s really a question of taste as to whether you prefer the fresh primary style of fruit of [Dow’s 1985], the more perfumed style of [Graham’s 1985], or the massive opulence, drive and wealth of this wine. In the end, I am opting for this, but it’s a great triumvirate, standing head and shoulders above their peers, and all are very, very good indeed. All three have two decades in them yet. | 96

Richard Mayson | Another deep, opaque ’85, withathin purple rim; flat, baked, and oxidized on the nose (second bottle requested and the same); a touch more fruit forthcoming on the palate, with some big, strapping tannins but marred by a dusty extractive finish with an aftertaste of stewed, baked fruit. Not much finesse here. | 80