Neil Beckett | This Aligoté (d'Orée) is the golden exception to Delaunay's Côte d'Or-only sourcing, Laurent having been unable to resist the offer of grapes from his former Dijon enology professor, Monsieur Feuillat, from some of the highest vines in the region. Cool-fermented, it finished fermenting in barrel (one to four years old), and was then bâtonné and élevé like a Chardonnay, but bottled after only 5 months to capture its aroma and freshness. Pale gold. Fine, fresh, and pure in scent, alluring light citrus but nothing at all vegetal. Very good density, intensity, and persistence, but matched all the way by elgance, purity, and succulence. Outstanding. | 90+