GRAVES / PESSAC-LÉOGNAN BLANC
Château Carbonnieux Cru Classé
(55% SB, 45% Sm)
SF | A complete and harmonious white wine, its alcohol level (14%) almost high in the context of this unusually restrained vintage, but neatly woven into a filigree fabric of limestone-inspired agrume, nougat, and stone fruit. Elegance is the watchword for Eric Perrin (he cited André Lurton as his mentor) and elegance is exactly what we are offered here. 10% of new oak has been employed. Always excellent value. | 93–94
Domaine de Chevalier Cru Classé
(70% SB, 30% Sm)
SF | Adrien Bernard is taking increasing responsibility these days; it is, after all, Olivier’s 46th vintage; but, needless to say, the great man is never far away. Nor is the spirit with which he has imbued these wines, exemplified brilliantly in this white, with its characteristic “buvabilité,” the word Adrien thinks the most appropriate to describe the 2025 vintage as a whole. Citric notes with a chalky undercoat and hints of stone-fruit complexity, buttressed by a fine-balanced acidity, yet not without the density and texture that makes it stand out from its peers. The harvest was conspicuously early (August 28–September 6) and the yields a more than acceptable 38hl/ha. Classic Pessac oiliness, then iodine sapidity, lemon-pith rigor, and a charming, bitter-almond backstop. A joy! | 94–95
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Château de Fieuzal Cru Classé
(70% SB, 30% Sm)
SF | The focus of the Quinn family, who took over at Fieuzal in 2001, has concentrated on recapturing the glory days of its white wine, hitherto with no lack of success, the use of both acacia and traditional oak broadening the texture and ensuring that the acidity does not overwhelm the ensemble. A pleasing nose of white plum, peach, and verbena underwrites a style that is both linear and generous, both highlighted by notes of white pepper and spice on the finish. | 92–93
Château Haut-Brion 1er Cru
(51.5% Sm, 48.5% SB)
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SF | Appreciably more forward than La Mission, with a heady floral aromatic of lemon groves, rich spring-blossom, and yellow fruit. Textured and complex, the wine marries strident acidity, mid-palate depth, and a distinctly addictive bitter-sweet finish. The lemon-peel, toasty potential of old-vine Semillon is swaddled in an oaky cradle and boasts additional notes of white pepper, quince, and hazelnut to underline an impressive complexity and the potential to age with grace over many years. | 95–96
La Clarté de Haut Brion
(76% Sm, 24% SB)
SF | This is, in effect, the second wine of both Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, with Semillon, of late, the majority shareholder. There is no lack of aromatic complexity here, however, with hazelnut, citrus pith, verbena, and even a hint of pineapple, respectful of the warm year but not overwhelmed by it. The substratum of acidity can be mined without too much difficulty. A hint of salinity on the finish… very agreeable, all in all. | 92–93
Château La Mission Haut-Brion Cru Classé (65% Sm, 35% SB)
SF | Pale yellow with a silvery sheen; the nose, typical of young La Mission, is reserved. Chalky streams of flavor, buoyed by acidity and a citric pull; gaining in confidence and pace with aeration; the irrepressible voice of Semillon gathering force. A cool, increasingly persuasive current of flavor, which will evolve gracefully. | 94–95
Château Larrivet Haut-Brion
(88% SB, 12% Sm)
SF | The fruit was harvested in late August before the rains, with a yield of 22hl/ha. Eleven months of lees stirring and the use of 20% new oak have conspired to fashion a richly textured wine, with notes of guava and honey sitting comfortably next to a mid-palate that is dominated by grapefruit and poached pear. There is flint and verbena on the finish and a pleasing hint of bitterness to underline, but not to overstate, the phenolic authority of the old-vine Semillon. | 92–93
Château Malartic-Lagravière Cru Classé
(73% SB, 27% Sm)
SF | Jean-Jacques Bonnie is pleased with his white-grape yield of 36hl/ha and feels that the rainfall patterns in 2025, intermittent and brief, were helpful for his Semillon, the majority of which was planted between 1998 and 2005. His use of larger format oak, very little of it new, allied to a restrained bâtonnage regime, has proved successful in 2025. Notes of agrume and tilleul are complemented by orchard fruit and white almond, along with just a hint of lavender oil and spearmint. An impressive, linear profile, with discreet but agile acidity holding everything in place. | 92–93
Château Pape Clément Cru Classé
(56% SB, 30% Sm, 14% SG)
SF | Changes are afoot at Pape Clément, once seen as a temple of oaky indulgence. Canadian Matt Taylor has gradually banished the 225-liter barrique, favoring concrete, stainless steel, and larger foudres in the name of purity and focus. The reduction in the size of the core vineyard has also helped to facilitate this aim, and the white Pope provides eloquent proof of progress; agrume, almonds, and flowers underscore a neat, compact wine. Bâtonnage has been carefully controlled and yields (a mere 18hl/ha for the Sauvignon Gris) kept in check. The result is very impressive indeed. | 92–93
Château Smith Haut Lafitte
(90% SB, 5% Sm, 5% SG)
SF | The charming aromatic is a fruit basket of plenty; grapefruit, lemon, peach, and apricot, fresh and generous, themes happily also declaimed on the palate, which is lively on the attack and then caresses with its panoply of flavor, into a powerful crescendo and what Fabien describes as its ”phenolic squeeze” on the finish, which is both saline and vibrant. Fabien advises that biodynamic preparations were especially helpful in the torpid days of the high season, encouraging deep root penetration and the absorption of nutrients to invigorate the vital signs. The Sauvignon Gris adds an oily, almost smoky subtext, with notes of flint and petrichor lingering memorably. | 94–95
GRAVES / PESSAC-LÉOGNAN ROUGE
Château Carbonnieux Cru Classé
(45% CS, 45% M, 5% CF, 5% PV)
SF | Eric Perrin advises that the heat spikes were in early to mid-August, a little later than sometimes and thus having a different impact on the process of physiological ripening, specifically maintaining the berries at a smaller size and allowing for greater concentration, but without provoking too much by way of acidic degradation. The result is bright and deeply saturated, with aromas that recall blueberries, Asian spice, and sage. Although possibly less ripe than the others, Eric feels that the style places the wine alongside three other recent Mediterranean vintages—2022, 2020, and 2018. Its graceful persistence may well guide it to the top of the podium. | 94–95
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion Cru Classé
(54% CF, 29% CS, 17% M)
SF | The Clos, walled within the walls of the city, as it were, has a particular mesoclimate and very distinct terroir, marginally less gravelly than Haut-Brion itself, the gravel rapidly ceding to a layer of clay and then a bedrock of hard limestone. The aging has been shared between new barrels (70% but hardy discernible), 18hl casks (20%), and the balance in amphorae. Cabernet Franc of this age (70 years old), as at Lafleur, is known as Bouchet and proves remarkably adept at taming the conditions of 2025, which were, lest we forget, hot and dry for an extensive part of the season. The watchword here is freshness, with the gravel soils lending distinctive texture to the front of the palate, then limestone ensuring definition at the back; a structure that managing director Guillaume Pouthier attempts to describe geometrically (triangles and spheres punctuate his analysis) and with a rich, encyclopedic patchwork of fruit references, which include blood orange, lemon pith, and loganberry. Behind that, there is a savory complexity and a firm, engaging acidity, with only 13% ABV. The power of Margot Fonteyn; two hours sur pointe, requires both inordinate strength and persuasive cerebral conviction. | 96–97
C des Carmes Haut-Brion
(60% CS, 39% M, 1% PV)
SF | The terroir for C is close to Haut-Bailly and Smith Haut Lafitte, cooler than the city Clos (harvest took place ten days later) and with a little more sand interspersed through the clay and gravel. There is finesse, a distinctive, almost-salty texture, with intimations of umami and soft power behind the regal poise of 12.5% ABV, supremely “buvable“ as Guillaume would say. His maverick work with whole bunches, learned from an apprenticeship with Michel Chapoutier in Hermitage, is now distinctly modish, and he is adamant that its influence on structure is well-suited to today’s warmer Bordeaux. Fresh black fruit, notes of soot and eucalypt, salinity and sapidity; a statement wine of considerable pedigree. | 93–94
Domaine de Chevalier Cru Classé
(65% CS, 30% M, 5% PV)
SF | The full organic accreditation marks the wine with a gravelly purity. Adrien describes how the rain patterns favored a patient approach, with a relatively late harvest (finished September 26) paying real dividends. There is dark-fruit charm, a distinct herbal balm, and neat enrobing tannins, the latter neither astringent nor overwhelming as a result of the move to a larger proportion of foudre (mainly 500-liter) for the élevage. The Petit Verdot seems to add a leafy, blue-fruit complexity and a lick of spice. All in all, a great success, with a real sense of place evidenced. And rather a lot going on with a mere 12.5 % ABV…quite an achievement. An equestrian rather than pedestrian Chevalier, which is exactly as it should be. | 94–95
Château Doisy-Daëne Hommage à Denis Dubourdieu
(100% PV)
SF | This respectful cuvée was initiated in 2018, using the oldest Petit Verdot grapes from the Reynon vineyards. Dark and brooding, with aromas of black tea, soot, and violets, the wine has plush, velvety fruit, saturnine of intent and savory of disposition. On the finish, the wine unfurls like a peacock’s tail; nonetheless it boasts powerfully stentorian tannins. | 93–94
Château de Fieuzal Cru Classé
(50% M, 40% CS, 10% PV)
SF | The historical inclusion of Cabernet Franc, now discontinued, has given way to the dark spice of Petit Verdot, the Merlot lending plush, dark fruit and a round elegance to complement the grainy, gravelly tannins and the fine balancing acidity. The wine has been aged for 12 months in 32% new wood, before a further six months in stainless steel. Beautifully perfumed (cherry and eucalypt) with an engaging, “soft earth” character at its core. | 92–93
Château Haut-Bailly Cru Classé
(55% CS, 36% M, 5% CF, 4% PV)
SF | Technical director Gabriel Vialard considers 2025 to be aligned with 2016 and 2019. This is good news, because immediately after the tasting, we are privileged to sample each Haut-Bailly back to 2004—and 2016 and 2019 are the vintages that, entirely coincidentally, stand out. The wine glories in subtle complexity; crushed, blue fruit, loganberry, cloves, and a hint of gunpowder all come to mind. The tannins are ripe yet disciplined, with 50% new oak employed for the first 16 months, then a mouthfeel that is generous yet not overindulgent; an archetype of the glorious and holistic weave, which rejoices in a peacock’s tail of a finish. Beneath and beyond it all, we celebrate the discreet charm for which Haut-Bailly is so revered. | 95–96
Haut Bailly II
(50% M, 40% CS, 6% PV, 4% CF)
SF | Véronique Sanders describes 2025, the year of the completion of the new cellars (aka The Cellarium, a multi-faceted reception area) as “holistic”; synergistic forces are everywhere, not least in the vines, which were aided by benevolent conditions and celebrated a relatively early harvest, started on September 4. The vintage was ”warm but not opulent“; this HB2 caresses with its cashmere tannins, but has ripe, refreshing fruit at its core, its soft red and black fruit gliding across the palate and forestalling a refreshing, almost-cool finish. Holistic indeed! | 93–94
Château Haut-Brion 1er Cru
(63% M, 26% CS, 11% CF)
SF | A little more forthcoming, unusually, than La Mission. This is what vineyard manager Grégoire Bucaille describes as a Merlot year, such was the loss of Cabernet yield. Nonetheless, it may also be viewed as a classic Graves, with an aromatic of gravel-strewn embers, dark cherry, and autumnal leaves. The palate offers pleasing fruit, dense and dark, with notes of tapenade and black tea in support. The structure is immense, brooding but not without generosity; chiaroscuro promise behind the aromatic spell. Endlessly challenging and satisfying. | 97–98
Le Clarence de Haut-Brion
(66% M, 29% CS, 5% CF)
SF | More reserved than La Chapelle, with distinct aromatics of white pepper, crushed raspberry, and pavements after rain… but only after the sun has come out again! Hints of peppermint and violet underline the personality here. The structural composition is impressive, with finely honed tannins softly beguiling the ensemble, which is tightly knit and quietly confident. | 91–92
Château La Mission Haut-Brion Cru Classé
(59% M, 38% CS, 3% CF)
SF | Dense color, with a nose dominated by dark fruit, spice, and hothouse flowers. Restraint and reticence eventually cede to a dignified, cashmere texture, lively acidity, and very precise, powerful tannins; a graphite grip. An old-school, dignified Mission accomplished, with more to give. | 94–95
La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion
(53% CS, 28% M, 18% CF, 1% PV)
SF | Sappy and energetic, with aromatics of cassis and lavender; archetypical Cabernet character, with dark, leafy fruit and an impressive definition on the finish. 20% new wood has lent rondeur. Forward yet composed; finely tuned components singing harmoniously. | 91–92
Château Larrivet Haut-Brion
(55% CS, 23% CF, 22% M)
SF | With its soils combining gravel, sand, and limestone, Larrivet Rouge is aged in new (40%) and one-year-old (45%) barriques but also in Stockinger barrels. The Cabernet Franc lends firm acidity and a leafy, indulgent character that recalls the great wines of Chinon, the more so as more than one quarter is vinified using whole bunches. The fruit profile favors the red over the black, the relatively modest 13% ABV ensures freshness, and there are pleasing, earthy, graphite notes on the finish. | 92–93
Château Malartic-Lagravière Cru Classé
(57% CS, 39% M, 3% PV, 1% CF)
SF | M Bonnie compares the modest incursion of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc to the condiments of the kitchen. They certainly add a little spice to the generous fruit character, itself dominated by cherry, plum, and damson. Already approachable, and with moderate concentration, the wine’s 13.5% ABV is perfectly poised and well-judged. | 92–93
Château Pape Clément Cru Classé
(60% M, 36% CS, 3% CF, 1% PV)
SF | The core holdings focus on 55ha (136 acres) that mirror almost precisely those that were classified in 1855, with limestone outcrops favoring Merlot and gravel hosting the Cabernet Sauvignon. The use of 2,500- and 4,000-liter foudres has ensured a less flamboyant and toasty style than of old; instead there is tension, subtlety, and a fine weave between fruit (sloe and cassis to the fore) and tannins, the latter neatly pixilated in support. | 94–95
Château Smith Haut Lafitte Cru Classé
(68% CS, 27% M, 4% CF, 1% PV)
SF | The labels are to be black this year, in honor of the late Daniel Cathiard. I shall miss our sorties into the vineyard or up the famous viewing tower. The 2025 pays a worthy tribute, its aromatic precision and purity testament to the long-standing organic principles adopted in the vineyard, with practices such as mulching and the avoidance of leaf-thinning allowing evapotranspiration to proceed naturally but preventing the grapes from shutting down. The aromatic combines red and black fruit, cassis and raspberry to the fore, then flowers (peony) and a touch of spice. The wine glories in a loamy, gravelly aromatic behind the fresh fruit, then deft and poised balance on the palate and extremely elegant and finely powdered tannins. The proportion of new oak is down at 50% these days, which works very well. | 96–97
