VOSNE-ROMANÉE
DOMAINE D’EUGÉNIE
Jaeok Cramette has taken over from Michel Malland. Michel made the 2024, but Jaeok has looked after the wines during élevage. Since the Bouchard Père & Fils reshuffle, the domaine now has 9ha (22 acres), as Eugénie’s white parcels have gone to Bouchard, starting with the 2026 vintage.
There were 16 people working over two sorting tables. “Michel used some whole-bunch. It was challenging to find whole bunches, but I really like the expression of whole bunches. Must use them wisely though,” says Jaeok. Michel used 100% for Bonnes Mares and Cazetiers.
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Generally, there was more pumping over than pushing down. “Where there were more bunches, there was some punching down. Michel started pigeage from the middle of the alcoholic fermentation.” He settled the wine for three weeks before barreling down. “I will do a shorter élevage as the 2024 is fragile. Most village wine will be bottled before Christmas [2025].”
I sense that Jaeok will be making some changes to the winemaking, not least in the proportion of new oak in the cellar, which will be a good thing. There’s a touch more potential to be fulfilled at this domaine with a sensitive touch in the winery.
Jaeok characterizes 2024 as “a pretty, elegant vintage compared with the recent warmer years.”
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*Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Cazetiers
A feuillette made from used oak. Lifted, delicate floral and herbal aromas. There is sufficient density mid-palate to carry the 100% whole-bunch surprisingly well. It’s restrained, smooth, rather urbane, with good intensity and salinity on the finish. “The bunches were smaller here than in Bonnes-Mares,” remarks Jaeok. 2028–34. 94–95
*Vosne-Romanée Clos d’Eugénie
From 0.56ha (1.38 acres) below La Tâche, and 40–50-year-old vines. 50% whole-bunch, which works well here, and 30% new oak. Light herbal lift on both the nose and the palate. Black-currant fruit, light- to medium-bodied, with a slightly crunchy tannin profile, which provides brightness. Spicy finish, with a hint of cardamom. Not bad at all. 2027–31. 89–90
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Brûlées
From a parcel on the north side the climat. 50% whole-bunch and 30% new oak. Pretty, delicate red fruit and finely textured tannins. Pure and light. Both sprightly and spicy, with an appealing, fresh, and lightly minty finish. 2028–35. 94
Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru
Just one barrel, and it’s second fill. A trim, lithe, and fine-textured Grands Echézeaux, which shows good intensity. Although 100% destemmed, it has a herbaceous note and light but attractive bitterness on the finish, which extends quite well. 2028–25. 95
DOMAINE JEAN GRIVOT
“2024 is a very delicate and pure vintage, with finesse but structure,” remarks Mathilde Grivot. “I am very proud of the team in the vineyard. We lost many grapes but what we had was good.” They sprayed 12 times, which included some systemic sprays. “I have to find a balance—what is good for the vineyard [eg less compaction of the soil] and for the workers. I also work in the vineyard, and it’s not good to be spraying chemicals so often.”
All the fruit was destemmed. “We were very soft in the extraction. Just one or two minutes for the small tanks, and six or seven for the large ones. “To have complexity of aroma and flavor, you need to have perfect alcohol levels, so we chaptalized, to get village wines to 12.5%, premiers crus to 13%, and grands crus to 13.2%. To have an Echézeaux at 12.5%, you would lose many things in the wine.
“With time in barrel, the wines have taken on more density and show more structure and complexity, so I do not want to bottle too early. We continue to gain things before bottling.”
Mathilde concludes: “Not a demonstrative vintage, but a good expression of Pinot Noir.”
Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau
From a recently replanted parcel, so 40% is not in production. Only four barrels in 2024. Delicacy with ripeness. Racy, light, and bright, with pithy bitterness on the finish. 2027–29. 87
Nuits-St-Georges Les Lavières
Greater intensity than the Nuits-St-Georges Les Charmois, with a fine-grained texture and an appealing brightness to the red fruit. It neatly expresses its terroir. 2027–29. 86
*Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Roncières
Light-bodied, slim, and floral, with hints of garden herbs. This prances brightly and delicately on the palate. A puff of oregano to finish. 2027–31. 91
*Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Brûlées
Only two barrels. Splashing red-fruit aroma, while the palate is austere, with attractive tension and crispness. Slightly snappy and crunchy-fine in texture. Salty persistence. 2029–34. 94
Vosne-Romanée Premier cru Les Beaumonts
Spicy, pimentón aroma. Sweetness to the attack. Soft and supple texture. More seductive and generous than the Brûlées, a touch fuller and richer mid-palate, but not quite as fine on the finish. 2029–34. 93–94
*Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Rouges
Light-bodied, straight, and trim, with a fine, silky texture. Freshness neatly offsets the red-currant sweetness of fruit. “Twenty years ago, we had too many grapes,” says Mathilde. “Now this vineyard is older, we have the harmony—and it’s true, we have this sweetness.” 2027–31. 91–92
*Richebourg Grand Cru
Slim but with depth and a light lusciousness. It is restrained, but there is succulence and channeled power. Quite a step up in intensity and persistence. 2028–36. 95
DOMAINE MICHEL GROS
Pierre Gros sprayed 11 times, including four systemic treatments, and started harvest on September 21, picking the Hautes-Côtes September 27–30. “There was not really less mildew in the Hautes-Côtes, but it was fresh mildew, which was easier to sort. In the Côte de Nuits, it was mainly dry mildew. Very, very difficult.” All the fruit was destemmed, as usual. “This year we did a lot of sorting in the vineyard as usual, but also in the cuverie. The Côte de Nuits averaged 15hl/ha.” Pierre used fewer punch-downs. “We usually do more at the end but did less than usual in 2024.” He used the concentrator for the Hautes-Côtes and chaptalized the Côte de Nuits by approximately 0.5% ABV. “I will continue with the same élevage, but use more new oak in 2024.” It’s a small crop and Pierre orders his oak in advance, so there will be 50% for the premiers crus and 75% for the grands crus. The Hautes-Côtes is aged in foudres.
“It is a little like 2021 or 2017, but not as good. Obviously, 2024 is light and delicate, while the 2021 has more concentration. 1996 was fresh and light at the beginning, and aged relatively well. So, the 2024s should go for eight to ten years for premiers and grands crus, but I would recommend drinking sooner than ’22 or ’23.”
Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Fontaine Saint Martin Blanc
Straight but there’s ripeness and no austerity. Lively salinity and nice freshness. It’s attractive. The white is better than the red from Fontaine Saint Martin this year. 2026–29. 84
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Brulées
A more refined aroma than the Nuits-St-Georges premier cru. Smooth, soft, suede texture and ripe fruit entwined with sufficient freshness. 2027–32. 90
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Clos des Réas
50% new oak dominates the light structure, but I like the silky texture, lightness, spicy red fruit, and brightness on the finish. 2026–32. 90
Richebourg Grand Cru
From 0.41ha (1 acre) in the lieu-dit Les Veroilles ou Richebourgs. Among their grands crus, this is a level up in depth, succulence, juiciness, and richness. Shows more intensity and follow through on the finish. 2028–33. 93
DOMAINE GEORGES NOELLAT
Maxime Cheurlin remarks, “All the fruit was destemmed—you cannot use stems in 2024! Not interesting in the wine. It was important to make a selection—more than 10% was lost on the sorting table, but we also made a first selection in the vineyard for botrytis.
“I had to be very careful with the extraction. Chaptalizing was very interesting, as the structure was hard to find. I used mainly remontage, and a maximum of two or three punch-downs, only at the end.” He will do a shorter élevage than usual.
“2024 has a nice balance. I compare it with 2021, but with more density. I am happy. It has enough concentration. There is finesse and balance. Like 1991, which was very fine, and you can keep this longer, as there were lower yields.”
Lively, light, and juicy wines from Maxime this year, with fine tannins.
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Fonteny
Ripe red-fruit aroma, then a juicy and vibrant splash on the attack, to a pure and rather delicate palate. A fine and light crunch to the texture, and lightly mineral to finish. 2027–34. 92–93
Vosne-Romanée
From five parcels, half from Champ Perdrix at the top of the slope, the rest from four parcels at the bottom. Straight and bright, carried on a cool, crisp palate. Light yet nicely intense for this elegant village wine. One of the most enjoyable village Vosnes in 2024. 2027–33. 89
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Petits Monts
Floral, fresh, and delicate. It combines lightness with tension and a sprinkle of saltiness. Floating, fine, airy, and precise. Lovely wine. 2027–35. 94–95
MAXIME CHEURLIN
Maxime Cheurlin’s négoce side was able to produce only two wines this year. Yields in 2024 were 15–20hl/ha. Cheurlin uses largely Cavin barrels (80%).
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru
A blend of Gruenchers and Noirots. Ripe red-fruit aroma, supple texture, light succulence, and attractive juiciness mid-palate, with a light, pithy finish. 2027–32. 89
Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Les Monts Luisants
The 2ha (5 acres) produced 13 barrels. Super-mineral, taut, and biting. A nervy, narrow, and salty wine, with a firm and crisp tannic snap. 2027–33. 93
DOMAINE DU COMTE LIGER-BELAIR
Louis-Michel Liger-Belair now produces wine from a total of 14.5ha (36 acres). There is some new Nuits-St-Georges Les Lavières and premier cru Aux Cras, while in Vosne-Romanée there are more village parcels and premier cru Petits Monts. Half the estate is family-owned and half is farmed. Louis-Michel sprayed 19 times in 2024, using 8.4lb (3.8kg) of copper. “We were at war on the sorting table.” Yields averaged 7hl/ha. “When you are fermenting for three weeks, you cannot have stems, so all the fruit was destemmed in 2024.” He plans to bottle a little earlier than usual, and describes the vintage as “very refined and elegant, but not thin; fresh but not thin, which I was afraid it might be when we were harvesting.” He finds the wines have improved during élevage, and compares 2024 to “a good vintage before global warming, but without the crystalline character of 2016.”
Louis-Michel plans to combine the 2024 with others vintages to help allocate the small quantities.
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Cras
Fruity generosity upfront becomes stricter. Straight and well-edged, with good density mid-palate underpinned by a cold cut of mineral freshness, which carries the finish. Energetic. Excellent terroir expression. 2028–34. 94–95
Nuit-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes Rouge
Louis-Michel bought this vineyard in 2012. It lies below the RN 74, and part of the vineyard is classified as village. A normal crop is 35 barrels—but there were only four this year. There is no white wine this year—instead the Chardonnay was co-fermented with the Pinot Noir and represents 12% of the final wine, which probably contributes to the expressive aromas, brightness, and attractive freshness of this Nuits, which has light tannins and finishes on a minty note. 2027–33. 91–92
Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château (Monopole)
More limestone soil here, so the rain drained, but the walls resulted in more humidity. Expressively floral aroma. Silky, slim, and finely textured. Juicy red fruits and light saltiness. Very pleasing. 2028–32. 89
*Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Petits Monts
The sandy soil drained well and, with less mildew, the yields were fairly good. Pure and straight, this has some tension and appealing dry savoriness. Light-bodied and fine-boned, with a lovely, saline finish. Spot-on. 2028–34. 94–95
*Echézeaux Grand Cru
This cuvée now includes fruit from the lieux-dits Clos St-Denis and Champs Traversins, from the deal with Lamarche. Unfolds in a silky ripple across the palate, pure and extended. This has elegance and refinement. Delightfully fluid wine. A fine example for 2024. 2028–35. 96
*La Romanée Grand Cru (Monopole)
Less mildew here gave a production of 6.5 barrels. Intense aroma of red currant and pomegranate, with tight focus on the straight and precise palate, which has salty sweetness. Gossamer-fine, silk texture, with a pure, intense, and persistent finish. 2029–37. 97
DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET
Quite a lot of new oak. In some cuvées, this helps to boost the sensation of freshness with a sappy tannic note, while it can rather overpower others. 80% François Fréres and 15% Cavin, with some Chassin in 2025. “La Grange barrels give the spiciness,” remarks winemaker Nacha Navarro.
The small cuvées are always made in the small 900-liter tanks. Jean-Nicolas Méo experimented with fermenting in upturned large oak barrels some years ago and didn’t like it.
“2024 is like 2021 in some ways but not completely similar. In 2021, at this estate, at this stage, 2021 was more open, while 2024 is shyer. There are some wines that will be accessible young, but for some I think you should wait a bit. In some wines we have more concentration, while 2021 is a fresh, fruity, and accessible vintage.”
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru
For this cuvée, six barrels of Boudots and four of Murgers were blended in July 2025. 55% new oak, as there was slight reduction of new oak on the Murgers. Quite straight on the attack. More Murgers in feel than Boudots, maybe. Gently rounded mid-palate, light-bodied but has plenty of joyful forest fruits, light tannic grip, and a spicy finish. It’s affable. 2027–32. 90
*Vosne-Romanée
A blend of fruit from lieux-dits Les Barreaux and Aux Communes. The harvest from Aux Communes was cold in tank and the later-harvested Les Barreaux was added after, before fermentation began. 50% new oak. Red-cherry fruit. Fine-textured tannins; lively and juicy, peppery, spicy, pimentón notes, with morello cherry on the finish. Spring to its step. The lively Barreaux component has the lowest pH in the cellar. 2027–32. 89
*Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Cros Parentoux
Two barrels. 12.52% ABV, TA 3.67g/l, and pH 3.45. Inviting, quite intense, sweet, red-fruit aroma. In common with Brûlées, it’s super-reductive on the palate, but the intensity of matter is clearly visible through the reduction and the 100% new oak, whereas in Brûlées it was not. It has layering and depth coupled with refinement. Lithe, persistent finish. 2028–24. 94–95
*Richebourg Grand Cru
Three barrels and 100% new oak. 12.41% ABV, TA 3.28g/l, and pH 3.64: “Not too high for Richebourg which can have a pH of 3.7.” Sleek and sophisticated. Pronounced oak. An urbane wine with presence and power. While the Clos Vougeot seemed to lack substance, this cuts the mustard. Quite the longest finish of the wines here, showing plenty of freshness at the end. 2030–38. 97
Corton Clos Rognets Grand Cru
The proportion of new oak was reduced this vintage, to 60%, while most of the other grands crus have 80%. Warm strawberry aroma. Summer fruits on the palate, too. Soft and succulent, quite full, rounded, and generous, with a supple texture, somewhat fluffy. The new oak helps boost a sense of freshness, both straightening and providing sappiness to the finish. 2028–35. 92–93
MÉO-CAMUZET FRÈRES ET SOEUR
Jean-Nicolas Méo was on holiday when I visited, so I tasted with Chilean winemaker Nacha Navarro, who tells me they lost volume to the poor flowering but the mildew didn’t affect the grapes. Hence there was little sorting to do. Jean-Nicolas has lost contracts in Nuits-St-Georges, where a grower’s son has started winemaking, but has replaced the fruit from Volnay and Pommard. The Volnay village parcels (the wine is gentle and quite soft in 2024) and a parcel of premier cru Mitans have been purchased, so will be included in the domaine portfolio from 2025.
Nacha recalls the skins we quite thin (by comparison with 2025, in any event) and there was not much malic acidity. After MLF, which went through quickly, the total acidity was generally 3.05–3.30, pH 3.5–3.6. The pH was as high as 3.67 for the Clos Vougeot, which always has the most potassium pick-up and consequently often needs the tartaric tweaking. The pH of Clos Parentoux is always higher than the average, too, and reached 3.7.
As always, all the fruit was destemmed. Six to seven days of cold soak, and the vatting was a little longer than usual—extended to 21 days, with at least six punch-downs, whereas the 2023 had four punch-downs and vatting of 15–18 days, “because in 2023 the color and structure was easier and we had more alcohol [which helps with extraction]. In 2024, I wanted color and concentration and more structure to start our long élevage in barrel.” She chaptalized by up to 1% ABV. The wines were left to settle for just three days before barreling down. “In 2024, the wine started its time in barrel with more color, concentration, and complexity than in 2021,” recalls Nacha.
Chambolle-Musigny
From five parcels. 30% new oak. Bright, red-currant fruit, piquant, crunchy, and zesty. Nice energy and red-cherry-kernel snap. 2027–39. 87
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru
Fruit from premiers crus Les Fuesselottes, Charmes, Chatelots, and Fuées was co-fermented to make 5 barrels. Oaky aroma, but bright and juicy on the attack. Light-bodied, with smooth tannin. Gently rounded, it shows an easy charm and forward spiciness. A hint of thyme flower to finish. Pretty. 2027–32. 90–91
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2024 Burgundy: Côte de Nuits tasting notes—Gevrey-Chambertin
2024 Burgundy: Côte de Nuits tasting notes—Chambolle-Musigny
2024 Burgundy: Côte de Nuits tasting notes—Vougeot
