Andrew Jefford, Susan Hulme MW, and Michael Palij MW look for depth amid the easy charm as they taste the 2020 Barolo vintage.
2020 Barolo: More than comfortable?
Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo Monvigliero Verduno 2020 (14.5% ABV) |94
SH | The color is mid-ruby without any evolution. The nose is softly fragrant and enticing, a hedonistic mix of floral notes, such as iris, violet, and rose, as well as ripe red cherry in alcohol. The nose is persistent and multi-layered and, like the very best wines, evolves in the glass. On the palate, the wine is voluptuous and velvety, punctuated by floral notes that come and go. The texture is gentle and embracing but there is a slight greenness and a bitter-cherry flavor that contrasts with the velvety texture and hedonistic floral notes. This wine has a lot of charm but not quite perfect harmony in this vintage. 2025–36. | 96
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AJ | Garnet-red with scarlet glints. Fresh, delicately stated, curranty fruits, and a very welcome fine-leather complexity behind those fruits. Aromas of compelling refinement here: excellent. Softly expressed. Firm, with measured pace; brisk acidity and brisk tannins, too. Better concentration than many, and a sense of incipient complexity beginning to beckon. Unshowy but satisfying wine. 2025–36. | 90
MP | Discreet nose, showing elegant, cool-climate notes of strawberry, hawthorn, red cherry, red apple, mulberry, and strawberry jam. The nose is beautifully elegant, with tinned strawberry, rose petal, vanilla pod, dark chocolate, and a long finish that relies equally on structure and ripe fruit. The finish shows persistence, elegance, finesse, and the drive that only a core of perfectly resolved fruit can deliver. 2027–39. | 97
Fontanafredda Barolo La Delizia Lazzarito Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (15% ABV) |94
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SH | Bright ruby color. A lively nose, with dark licorice and mint notes. Juicy, savory, bright and breezy, not at all heavy on the palate, but perhaps lacking some depth and mid-palate development. 2025–35. | 92
AJ | Very pale and light—one of our palest today. Fragrant, graceful, and refined, and our antennae begin to wave. Lovely cherry fruit with fresh-cut hay. Single-note but serene and haunting. With time in the glass, the fruit shrinks a little and the secondary notes assume the upper note—not necessarily a good sign, as it suggests that the fruit doesn’t have a lot of sticking power. On the palate, our spirits rise again: this is a concentrated, even dramatic wine, with encouraging complexity, too. Fine drive and surge, and the core of currant-and-pomegranate fruit is sustained and long. I still don’t think that this will make old bones but it is an excellent Barolo in its vintage. 2025–35. | 92
MP | Beautiful nose, showing red cherry, cough syrup, cranberry, black cherry, wild rose, and plum, interlaced with ginger, hay, and licorice. The palate shows layers of velvety tannins, with refreshing acidity and a wealth of aromatic complexity combining to drive the finish. The length is superb and looks to the subtle floral and fruity notes, combined with Nebbiolo’s signature structure, to craft a truly impressive glass of wine that lingers on the palate for 45 seconds or more. This is an impressive Barolo with a bright future. 2030–40. | 98
Ca’Rome’ Barolo Rapet Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (15% ABV) |94
SH | Lightly perfumed, fragrant nose, then very dense, compact tannins, but of a silty, fine-sand-like texture. A clean, bright, well-made and firmly structured wine, which is not revealing much at present. I like the ambition and drive of this wine and the attention to detail. Lots of just-ripe, cool, cherry and green balsamic flavors. Tight, austere, and uncompromising but masterly in its own way. 2026–36. | 94
AJ | Pale; a delicate garnet red shading to brick at the meniscus. Very attractive and secondary now, with the primary fruit aromas melting into something warmer and more savory: warm twigs, humus, wet clay. Some dried herb here, too. On the palate, this is fresh, clean, clear, and limpidly expressed, with a concentrated fruit core, ample, softly extracted tannins, and some nascent secondary complexities. A darting, lively finish, and the ripeness is very well-judged. Beautiful wine, on the lines suggested by the aroma: a very happy blend of fresh primary fruit and secondary, savory complexities. 2025–37. | 93
MP | Discreet and intriguing nose, with layers of complex red and black fruit, showing black cherry, plum, cranberry, strawberry, licorice, and notes of sandalwood and cedar. The palate contributes elegant, structured tannins and refreshing acidity that serve to highlight the fruit and bring out the best in this elegant, balanced, and perfumed red. Enjoy this for its perfect balance or cellar for a few years during which time the aromatics will develop. 2028–35. | 95
Castello di Verduno Barolo Verduno 2020 (14% ABV) |94
SH | A sweet top note hits you first when sniffing this wine, then the subtle use of oak contributes warm spice, cream, and vanilla. Overall, the wine has some inner harmony and manages to avoid the pitfalls of too much green, unripe fruit. It is a little sotto voce, understated, or whispering in its expression, but overall there is quite a pretty harmony to this wine. 2025–35. | 93
AJ | Pale and translucent, though a dark rather than light garnet at the core. Settled, relatively emphatic aromas of pomegranate fruits, with admirable glowing ripeness to them: lots to like here. Something sweeter and more exotic behind, though not vanilla-like: a kind of floral wealth, which amplifies the fruits. A little sweet cherry, too. Excellent work here. Light, fresh, true, graceful, sustained, and charming: a super wine for the vintage. That rustling cascade of fruit running through a thicket of plants and over pristine ancient stones: that’s what Verduno can convey, and finally that is what this wine does convey. It seems hard to find finesse this year—but here you do. Lovely. 2025–37. | 93
MP | Aromatically complex, with a huge spectrum of cherry, currant, plum, strawberry, raspberry, violets, and dried rose. On the palate, there is cranberry, pomegranate, red cherry, Victoria plum, and sandalwood, together with a firm acidity, fine tannins, and a hit of warming alcohol. The finish scoops all of these up and runs with them, showing that 2020 can deliver elegant, structured reds with plenty of aromatic complexity. This is a serious glass of Barolo that deserves its place in the cellar. 2030–40. | 95
Azienda Agricola E Pira e Figli Chiara Boschis Barolo Mosconi Monforted’Alba 2020 (14.5% ABV) |94
SH | Sweet, open nose, blackberry and subtle oak. Lively acidity, bitter red and black fruits, smooth overall, with bright acidity and a lifted finish. 2026–36. | 94
AJ | Translucent, deep-garnet red. Very sound in profile and contour: pure, quiet fruits (cranberry and pomegranate) over a creamy bass line. Unusual wealth and richness here for the vintage. Just a quiet, background, phenol/peat note, which seems to be a vintage characteristic. Fresh, vivid, poised, and ripe; glowing acidity. Excellent concentration here compared to many of its peers in this vintage, and ample soft tannins to bring structural support. There are one or two other wines that have more complexity and refinement, but not many that have quite this level of core ripeness—and vinified with great assurance, too. A splendid effort. 2025–37. | 93
GD Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2020 (14% ABV) |93
SH | This wine has a gentle floral nose, with mixed fruits; not very incisive in terms of aroma, but more of a generous, charming wine. On the palate, it is round, smooth, and charming but with a decisive firmness, as there are lots of assertive but chalky, fine-textured tannins. Long, savory, and lingering on the finish. It makes its presence felt. 2026–36. | 96
AJ | Bright, deep red, with some black hues: exuberantly colored, though now translucent. Lots of enticing, boisterous, fresh fruit, with more cherry and plum than for many. Grand aromatic limpidity, and a sweet cast to the fruits. Good concentration and presence: a cascade of likeable, cherry-and-plum-styled Nebbiolo in straightforward guise. Tasty, brisk tannins and juicy acidity makes for a harmonious whole. An excellent buy at the right price in this vintage. 2025–35. | 90
MP | Discreet, competent nose, with notes across a wide array of aromas, including black cherry, plum, damson, currant, licorice, cedar, cinnamon, tar, and wild rose. In the mouth, the high level of both tannins and acidity threaten to occlude the palate, with the structural umbrella shadowing the fruit. The tannins, in particular, make an edgy entrance and dominate much of the palate, although the spicy red and black fruit do manage to get a word in. This is a lovely glass of wine but the balance falls in favor of the tannins. 2028–33. | 93
Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14% ABV) |93
SH | Juicy acidity, firm tannins, some vibrancy, but the flavors are a little green. There is an immediacy and accessibility about the vintage, but also lots of underripe qualities to some of the fruit and tannins. Overall, this feels a little green and lean on the palate, although there is certainly a lively burst of acidity. 2025–28. | 89
AJ | Slightly darker-hued wine than its sibling, served just prior: deep garnet with scarlet glints. This has the same levels of aromatic complexity as its sibling, though the fruit tone is just a little bit dryer. If anything, though, the fruits here are a little bit more forceful and penetrating. Both are very fine—some of the finest aromatic profiles in the tasting. On the palate, too, the fruit core is very impressive here—svelte and lively yet soft and persuasive. It’s ripe enough to be resonant, yet fresh enough to encourage repeated drinking. There are notes of tar, leaf, mushroom, hazel, and turmeric to lend intrigue. Beautiful wine. 2025–38. | 93
MP | Delicate and perfumed nose, with notes of red cherry, red currant, strawberry, dried rose, hawthorn, pomegranate, and hay. The palate delivers even more, with black cherry, ginger, mushroom, and forest floor. The length is superb, with the fine tannins and bright acidity supporting the fruit perfectly and allowing it to shine. The length is excellent and showcases Nebbiolo’s structural strength as well as its aromatic brilliance. 2027–37. | 97
Gagliasso Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata La Morra 2020 (14.5% ABV) |93
SH | The aromas are a little muted at first, like faded rose or dried flowers. A second bottle is brighter, with notes of rose hip and violet, and an attractive squeeze of bright acidity adding some zest and zing. A lingering, savory finish, with a classic touch of sapidita, as Italians might say, adding to the length. A more linear version of La Morra. 2025–38. | 94
AJ | Clear, bright, and translucent garnet-red. Sweet, warm, softly tarry fruits, and the sweetness a function of that fruit rather than new oak. Classic currant and pomegranate: artlessly attractive. Very soft and graceful: beautiful style choices here. A limpid, svelte, and lovely Barolo. Moderate concentration, but the balance is so good and so drinkable that no one will care much; it simply means that it’s not a long-keeper. Refined pomegranate on the aftertaste. Bottle 2: Actually, for me this is a little less attractive than bottle 1, though I am retasting after a significant gap: the aromas seem slightly dryer and less expressive than on the first occasion, while the palate (having tasted better wines) is not as balanced and attractive as I thought it was first time around. So, my score is dipping slightly, though I still believe this to be a good wine for the vintage. 2025–31. | 89
MP | Brooding nose, with much more black fruit to the fore; notes of bramble, mulberry, cooked black plum, and dried blueberry, as well as earthy notes of truffle, forest floor, and game. The alcohol is formidable in this wine and dominates the palate, although this reflects the cooked black-fruit nature of the nose. The tannins and acidity are correspondingly resolved, and those looking for a dramatic, full-throttle Barolo will find plenty to like in this wine, which is already strutting its stuff. 2026–31. | 95
Diego Conterno Barolo del Comune di Monforte d’Alba Monforte d’Alba 2020 (14.5% ABV) |93
AJ | Deep, dark garnet, though fully translucent. Bright raspberry and mulberry fruits in energetic style. Warm, vaporous fruit purity—very attractive. Another fine mouthful of Monforte fruit—I haven’t found any lack of ripeness or resonance in those 2020 wines of this commune at which we’ve had a chance to look. This is perhaps a little simpler and more straightforward than the very best wines of the year, but everything that is in here succeeds in bringing pleasure and satisfaction: fruit, acids, tannins. A sound buy. 2025–35. | 91
MP | A rich and powerful nose of black fruit, game, Bovril, tar, and cooked black plum. On the palate, this has decent weight and lots of ripe black fruit, which drives the long finish. The alcohol and acidity are balanced and there is much to like in this ripe wine. 2028–36. | 94
Massolino Barolo Margheria Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14.5% ABV) |93
SH | This wine strikes you with its immediate sweet nose and vibrant floral notes, but also its creamy, sweet, oak-spice. On the palate, there is a very harmonious balance between bright acidity, gentle but firmly integrated tannins, and lively, red-cherry fruit. It is bright and gregarious in style. 2025–34. | 92
AJ | Clear, bright garnet-red. Soft, sweet, beguiling but complex. The fruit is rather quietly stated in this aroma, but in a way it almost mimics full maturity, in that it is absolutely part of a complete and serene whole. Subtle, graceful, and refined, with many teasing notes (lanolin and burrata for rich things, but wild flowers like violet and woodruff for the subtler and more fugitive notes), which make one long for a large glass and half an hour to spend with the wine. Impressive. On the palate, it is a little simpler than the aromas contrived to suggest: a lithe plunge into a pool of cool fruit, which, as it subsides, comes to seem sweet-edged and tender. Beautifully crafted, elegant, and graceful. There are others with slightly more life force and breath behind them, but few others to match the grace and restraint of this wine. A super effort. 2025–37. | 93
Luciano Sandrone Barolo Aleste Barolo 2020 (14.5% ABV) |92
SH | In terms of aromas, the top notes are floral and pretty in this wine. Juicy dark fruits dominate on the palate: vibrant and lively and enjoyable, but it lacks some finesse and ripeness. 2025–35. | 92
AJ | Dark black-red. Translucent, but the hue is plum-red rather than garnet. Rich, exotic, with tobacco leaf and Indian balsam. Lots of ample ripeness here, and for me enjoyable as such, though the fruits are less classical than for some of its peers. A creamy undertow, too, and almost blackberryish ripeness. Lush and ripe on the palate, with lots of rewarding sweetness. Fair concentration, without huge complexity. An exuberant, lush, and exciting reading of the vintage, very easy to drink and very enjoyable in simple sensual terms. It may not be quite what demanding classicists are looking for, though. 2025–34. | 88
MP | Attractive nose, with ripe red fruit, including strawberry, raspberry, red currant, plum, and cherry. The wine shows obvious oak maturation, with notes of clove, vanilla, and coconut, although these characteristics are beautifully integrated with the oak. The finish looks to high alcohol and obvious oak initially, although the aromatic complexity derived from the fruit starts to assert itself on the finish. There is no denying the power and intensity of this wine and it remains to be seen whether or not this will deliver on its obvious and early promise. 2030–40. | 97
Rivetto Barolo Briccolina Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14.5% ABV) |92
SH | Lively color of bright ruby and a lively nose, with a fragrant, floral top note. Chunky, firm, drying tannins too severe for the level of fruit expressed on the mid palate. A little overly assertive, drying, and firm, without the joyful mid-palate expression of fruit. It is compact and tight, a little too dry on the finish, needing more layers and nuance in the middle. 2025–35. | 89
AJ | Bright, clear garnet-red with a fine inner glow to it. A little dry and leafy, but we are talking dry autumn leaves, not green spring leaves, and these scents meld with warm, bright currant and pomegranate fruits very tellingly. Graceful aromas. Not a roar of fruit, but the whole is very settled, harmonious, and inviting… though the aromas don’t quite hold well in the glass, and become a little vegetative after a while. On the palate, this is a graceful wine, gentle to drink, with a lovely, glowing fruit core and fine aromatics in the mouth. Tender, soft, and rewarding, though not quite in the top flight in terms of concentration and poise. 2025–37. | 91
MP | Richly aromatic, with notes of camphor, black cherry, licorice, tinned strawberry, mineral oil, incense, ink, and dried rose. The palate shows a supporting cast of tannin and acidity that showcase the complex red and black fruit. Concentration of cherry, plum, licorice, and incense drive an epic finish that relies also on the alcohol and acidity to best effect. The weight of fruit structure indicates that this will improve for many years. Classic and delicious Barolo. 2030–38. | 97
Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14.5% ABV) |92
SH | Sweet black-cherry and spice aromas, with fragrant violet and freesia, too. Nice acidity, firm but not harsh tannins, a little too oak-dominant, but this has plenty of fruit, too. I like the juicy, vibrant finish, with refreshing acidity. 2026–34. | 92
AJ | Graceful, bright, translucent light red. To begin with, a slight touch of reduction, but this soon clears to leave sweetly refined aromas of graceful elegance. Deft pomegranate, red currant, and cranberry fruits, with a creamy backdrop; dried-flower and wild-mushroom notes complete the backdrop. Unusual complexity here from a vintage where many growers struggled to express anything beyond simple purity of fruit. The palate isn’t quite as complex (or as concentrated) as the nose suggested it might be, but it is supremely well-balanced, very drinkable, and is built on a core of athletic red currant fruit. The aromatic complexities support the fruit well. Yet another assured effort from a Serralunga grower in this difficult vintage. 2025–38. | 92
MP | Delicate, filigree notes of red currant, red cherry, and cranberry work alongside forest floor, mushroom, and tobacco. The palate has an enormous weight of tannin and it struggles to move out from under these to capture the fruit to its best advantage. The finish eventually surrenders to the tannins and alcohol and the fruit is subsumed. Consumers looking for impressive and obvious Barolo will enjoy this, although it is definitely one for the short-term. 2025–29. | 93
Marengo Barolo Brunate La Morra 2020 (14.5% ABV) |92
SH | Classic mid-ruby color, already with touches of garnet. On the nose, this wine is gentle, with aromas of sweet spice and cherries in alcohol; less incisive and precise in terms of aromatic definition, but with a warmth and charm like old memories of familiar places, notes of leather and lavender weaving back and forth. The palate is round, soft, quite full, defined and elongated by lovely fresh acidity and fine, grainy, gravelly textured tannins. 2024–34. | 92
AJ | This producer’s La Morra is significantly deeper hued than its Novello: deep oxblood, though translucent to the core. Warm, sweet-fruited, structured, and secondary: very autumnal and rosy-hued, with lots of hedgerow and plant complexity over robust, sun-warmed plum fruits; some licorice, too. Friendly, welcoming, and enticing aromas. Not total purity, however; a touch of cardboard apparent in the glass after a while. Vivid and quite concentrated for this tasting, and better bulk in the mouth than many, too. This is not necessarily a Barolo desideratum—but in 2020, when the repeated rains seem to have left many wines slightly dilute, it is welcome. The fruit quality is just a little sinewy, but this wine has a lot to offer overall and would work very well with food. 2025–34. | 89
MP | Gorgeous nose, with cooked red fruit including plum, cherry, apple, red currant, and wild strawberry, along with floral notes of rose and Parma violets. There’s a purity to this that encapsulates fine Barolo. The palate is similarly appealing, although the tannins are still formidable. The finish is engaging, showing a twist of black pepper and exotic spice to add to the red fruit and black cherry. This is a convincing example and will reward another 5-7 years in the cellar. 2028–36. | 95
Rocche Costamagna Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata La Morra 2020 (14.5% ABV) |92
SH | This wine is a classic, bright, even ruby, not showing any evolution in color. The nose has a lovely purity and transparency about it; clear, just-ripe, crunchy red cherry, warm cream, and gentle vanilla spice, with fragrant wild-flower notes that come and go. Very bright, focused acidity gives a more linear structure to the soft, lush roundness that can often be typical of La Morra. I like this more edgy, precise style and the bright, uplifting finish. 2025–36. | 94
AJ | Limpid and translucent garnet-red. Vivid, fresh fruits: cherry and plum. Ample poise here, with a sense of creamy warmth beneath: a wine you’d like to roll in your glass. Pure, fresh, direct: as with so many 2020s, you almost have the sense that you are drinking straight from the vine. The concentration is sound here, and the tannins are present but not obtrusive: a thoroughly enjoyable wine, and with a little more concentration and finesse, it would have scored in the 90s. 2025–32. | 89
MP | Very obvious, with bright cherry fruit supported by strawberry and raspberry jam. There are some additional notes of baking spice, black cherry, and cooked plum. On the palate, this has surprisingly soft acidity and gentle, slightly cooked red and black fruit that prop up the tannins on a moderate finish. It’s a gentle, delicate, and thoroughly enjoyable introduction to Barolo, and one that will provide delicious early drinking. 2025–30. | 93
Azienda Agricola E Pira e Figli Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi Barolo 2020 (14.5% ABV) |92
SH | Softly fragrant nose, but diffuse, not focused or precise, if nevertheless pleasant, with a hint of brown-sugar ripeness, together with sultana and other dried-fruit aromas. The palate is leaner, more angular and livelier, because of the acidity, with crunchy, green-cherry flavors but a little lightweight and simple overall. 2025–33. | 89
AJ | Translucent garnet-red. Warm, sweet, and rounded: serene and pleasing, though without a great deal of aromatic detail. Bright and lively, with adequate concentration and moderate complexity. Very clean, fresh, fair, and frank: a lively mouthful of the real deal. Not for long storage but will bring plenty of pleasure over the next decade, and very true to the vintage. 2025–35. | 90
MP | A charming nose that combines ripe red and black fruit in a textbook show of Nebbiolo strength, with hawthorn, red cherry, strawberry, cranberry, black plum, and black cherry, with licorice, black pepper, hay, and ginger. The palate exudes a similar confidence, with a textbook blend of high acidity, firm tannins, and high alcohol. The finish is driven by the fruit and the structure in equal measure, with a gorgeous confluence of the two suggesting decent potential in the cellar. This has complexity and structure without undue reliance on oak—and it’s all the better for it. 2028–38. | 97
Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero Verduno 2020 (14.5% ABV) |92
SH | A bright ruby color. Super-clean and controlled, with subtle cream, vanilla, and spice on the nose, together with precise, just-ripe, cherry fruit. It is firm and assertive on the palate, with a touch of greenness to the fruit, which is more a reflection of some aspects of the 2020 vintage. A taut, precise, energetic wine, and a more linear view of Verduno, which I like a lot. 2027–37. | 95
AJ | The deepest hued of our four Veduno wines, by a short measure, though translucent at the core. This is a wine with the tarry cast that often seems to show up in this vintage, though there are also rounded, curranty fruits. The sweetness is almost violetty, which is nice. Characterful but finally subtle, with a sense of the Verduno urgency and poise to it (despite the depth of color). Sound, well-drawn wine, though finally, if anything, a little less complex than I thought it might be from the aromas. The concentration is good, however, the lineaments are firm, and this is a wine that will give more in half a decade than now (though it is already perfectly accessible). 2027–35. | 90
MP | A curious nose, with a vegetal note of boiled cabbage and cooked black fruit. Notes of clove, ink, licorice, and cooked cherry all vie for attention, but the backdrop of aggressive tannins and meager fruit does little to instill confidence in this wine’s ability to develop. 2025–28. | 90
Casa E di Mirafiore Barolo Paiagallo Barolo 2020 (15% ABV) |92
SH | Deeply colored wine with a youthful ruby tone. On the nose, heady polish and tar, with dried-flower notes but muted and sotto voce overall. On the palate, it is juicy, firm, and robust in style but with vibrant acidity. 2025–35. | 88
AJ | Mid to deep in the context of this tasting, but limpid and translucent: a looker. Affably inviting aromas, too, with plenty of wealth and warmth, and clearly outstanding fruit driving and building those aromas: exuberant and full. Not much beyond the fruit, but this is some of the best fruit we have smelled in the tasting so far. That’s borne out on the palate: a big flood of accessible fruit and poised ripeness. The concentration is better than for many, yet the style is very open and accessible. This isn’t a layered wine, but it is a lovely one, and it will bring huge drinking pleasure. The vintage warmth is very well-realized here, with the fruit core in the driving seat backed by supple tannins and mellowly fruity acidity. 2025–37. | 91
MP | Pronounced and elegant nose, with subtle red-fruit aromas of strawberry, cranberry, raspberry, and pomegranate. These combine with fine tannins and fresh acidity to help drive a finish that shows the linear red fruit supported by plum and mulberry together with vanilla, coconut, cedar, and licorice. The finish is of moderate length but the balance between fruit and structure is just where it should be. Drink now and for another 10 years. 2026–36. | 96
GD Vajra Barolo Ravera Novello 2020 (14% ABV) |91
SH | The color is a bright, youthful, blue-toned ruby. The nose is clearly delineated and persistent, precise and vibrant, with just-ripe, crunchy, black cherry, and a wonderful floral fragrance like freesias. Very juicy, mouth-watering acidity, and assertive, refined tannins which are savory and fine-sand-like in texture. Beautifully made; an assertive, bold wine but with plenty of charisma, too. 2026–36. | 94
AJ | Clear scarlet-red. Some welcome energy and architecture of fruit here: red currant, plum, pomegranate, and even black cherry, in searching style. Earth behind, and grape skins in the foreground. A good aroma; characterful and enjoyable. Vividly fruity in the clear, open, limpid, and rather artless style typical of the vintage. Almost juicily exuberant, with medium levels of concentration. 2026–31. | 88
MP | Delicate nose, with fresh red currant, crushed strawberry, mint, black cherry, violet, cedar, vanilla, and sawdust. Powerful on the palate, with chalky tannins coating the palate and a long finish driven by oak but also with concentrated cherry, plum, and currant. The firm tannins are in charge at the moment, but they may yield some ground with time. 2028–35. | 92
Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo Cannubi Barolo 2020 (14.5% ABV) |91
SH | Softly fragrant, sweet spice, cream, and white chocolate aromas from the oak. On the palate, the fruit is much less ripe, leaving a slightly hollow, empty feeling in the middle, but there is refreshing acidity and a citrus/orange-peel flavor that is intriguing. 2025–32. | 88
AJ | Pale and translucent against its peers. Another 2020 tarry nose (for whatever reason), slightly occluding the fruits here. It does clear a little with air though (so could it be a kind of reductive feature?), and you then get plenty of warm currant and pomegranate. Sound, fresh, and frank on the palate. Relatively dilute but enjoyable, clean, and fresh. A touch more smoke and tar on the finish. 2025–32. | 88
MP | Bold and dramatic nose, with ripe black fruit holding court, including cherry, plum, mulberry, and blackberry supported by oak notes of vanilla, cedar, and exotic notes of incense and sandalwood. The finish is exceptional, with the chiselled acidity driving proceedings and the dusty tannins playing a supporting role. There is a wonderful array of fruit that bolts along and helps drive the aftertaste. Classic Barolo, with pace and pluck, plenty of fruit, and perfectly judged structure. 2029–40. | 98
Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis Castiglione Falletto 2020 (14.5% ABV) |91
SH | Castiglione Falletto has sweet/savory aromas like raspberry jam and Maldon sea salt. Round and savory, with a salty, drying finish. Not as rich and lush as La Morra but with the combination of some ripe black cherry and the savory, sea-saltiness of Serralunga. Castiglione Falletto is often described as the crossover point between Searralungo and La Morra because the soils here begin to transition between the two. Rounded, subtle, and well composed, with a savory, dry, licorice finish. 2025–32. | 92
AJ | Very transparent and translucent, with a light garnet core. Lifted, though just a touch warm and dry-grassy, lacking roundness and vivacity of fruit. Similar on the palate, so a slightly dry wine, in which you notice the firm tannins more than you might wish, and the fruit is set back somewhat. On the plus side, it is concentrated and commanding, so if you like that dryer, less exuberant style, this might be worth a look. It will last a decade, for sure, before the tannins get the upper hand; there is supporting acidity, too, in a slightly hard style. 2025–34. | 88
MP | Attractive nose, showing ripe red fruit, including wild strawberry, cherry, and cranberry allied to black-fruit notes of blackberry, black currant, and black cherry. The palate shows a lovely blend of acidity and tannins that support the fruit and suggest good potential for future development. There is a slight vegetal note on the nose that stops it from getting a higher score. 2027–32. | 94
Casa E di Mirafiore Barolo Lazzarito Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (15% ABV) |91
SH | Some charming red fruits on the nose, wrapped in a smoky spice; bright, not heavy or dense with oak. There is a lovely, transparent openness on this wine. It is concentrated and full on the palate without being dulled by oak; vibrant, tingling acidity and a slight nervosity of style. This is an edgy and energetic wine but maybe lacks just some ripeness of fruit in the middle to soften some of these vibrant qualities. 2025–35. | 94
AJ | Bright, translucent black-red. The tarriness of the vintage is evident here again, but it’s a complexing factor over sweet, elegant, serene cherry fruits. A little bitsy bit of burn inside the tar. Vivid and full on the palate, with just a little more seize than some of its peers, and this gives the fruit a seriousness and thrust that has been hard to find in this tasting. Overall, though, the style is drinkable and gourmet; there is lovely balance here. Fresh and graceful, yet full, deep, and juicy, too. On the palate, the tarriness is unbothersome—just a minor complexing detail and indeed welcome as such in this vintage, in which we are searching for complexing elements. Very fine for the vintage. 2025–35. | 92
MP | Obvious nose, with vegetal notes of forest floor, cauliflower, and cut grass. The finish lacks the definitive structural elements that define the best examples, and this seems simple and short. 2026–31. | 88
Luigi Baudana GD Vajra Barolo Baudana Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14% ABV) |91
SH | Deeply colored. Clear, bright, black-cherry jam, with spicy oak notes. Tight and compact, dense tannins, silty in nature but lacking some inner harmony and ease. The structure is overwhelming the fruit rather than supporting it, and it all feels a bit heavy-handed. Great potential, but not quite realized. The fruit has an unripe, bitter, red-fruit quality. 2025–28. | 88
AJ | Translucent garnet-red. Lively red fruits over a soft, cereal sweetness. Some vegetal notes, too; complex and engaging, with some layering here. Concentrated and articulate on the palate, with better fruit depth than most. It is a little dry overall, and there are few bitter notes; some vegetal complexities on the finish. Soundly made wine, which should acquire more harmony and finesse as it ages. Ample curranty flavors on the aftertaste. 2025–35. | 90
MP | Sheer brilliance in the glass, exuding the Serralunga signature notes of wild strawberry, dried rose, and cranberry. Here this is ably supported by allspice, ginger, hay, licorice, and an exotic whiff of sandalwood and incense. The fruit drives the palate in this wine, with the silky tannins providing a backdrop on which the fruit can play. The length is impressive, and the balance in this young wine suggests that this will improve for a decade. 2030–35. | 96
Mauro Marengo Barolo Ravera Novello 2020 (14.5% ABV) |91
SH | A bright, medium-deep, translucent garnet, already showing some evolution in color. The nose is already a little more tertiary; slightly waxy, with oil-tar rather than fruit aromas, the intertwined smoke and spice suggesting a more traditional, oxidative approach to wine handling. On the palate, there is plenty of ripe, sweet, black cherry, cream, and spice, and an attractive balance of acidity and tannins. This wine has a very traditional old-school feel about it, but within that context, it has its appeal and charm. 2025–32. | 89
AJ | Our second Novello wine is both paler and more tile-hued than the first. Secondary on the aromas, with hospital-corridor or peaty phenol notes as well as earth and hedgerow warmth. It’s all done quite subtly, though, and the overall effect is enticing. Ditto on the palate, where there is perhaps a little too much phenol for me. Firm fruits and firm, dryish tannins, too. But it is generous in style, with fair concentration, so the overall success is related to how one feels about its characterful side. 2025–31. | 86
MP | Complex nose, with cooked red fruit including apple, cherry, and plum, supported by Asian spice including cinnamon, clove, and pepper. Further complexity comes via vanilla, coffee grounds, damp earth, and tobacco. The finish is superb, with high levels of alcohol and tannin supported by masses of both red and black fruit. The sinewy structure is yet to relax but it will, and the aromatic fireworks should get even better. 2030–40. | 98
Ciabot Berton Marco Oberto Barolo Roggeri La Morra 2020 (14.5% ABV) |92
SH | This wine has a youthful, deep, ruby color rather than garnet. On the nose, there is a rich mélange of mixed fruit rather than clearly defined aromas, together with a mineral, flint quality. Round, soft first impression, with a generosity of texture often typical of La Morra. On the palate, the wine is nicely balanced but a little simple in range and nuance of flavors, and the tannins are quite drying, conveying a feeling of underripeness on the finish. 2025–32. | 88
AJ | Deep-hued and bright: ox-blood with garnet glints. Currants and dry grasses, some cherry as well as plum, too: complex fruits in a natural frame. Attractive, and with aromatic dimensions that not every wine has this year. Ample and full: lovely ripeness here, and better concentration than many. This is a Barolo that you could dive into, eyes shut: fresh, scrutable, balanced, with a supple tannin undertow and more resonance than most of its peers. Excellent work here. No Barolo lover could not enjoy this, though I wouldn’t stow it away for long. 2025–34. | 91
MP | Jumping out of the glass, this shows a huge smorgasbord of red and black fruit under some oak-maturation notes. There’s red cherry, black cherry, currant, and plum alongside licorice, ink, sandalwood, cedar, vanilla, and char. The palate is engaging and immediate, with layers of fruit and plenty of alcohol. The finish shows moderate length, with the alcohol and tannins currently stealing the limelight. This will continue to develop in bottle, and some of the concerns regarding the tannins will eventually resolve. 2028–36. | 94
Manzone Barolo Castelletto Monforte d’Alba 2020 (15% ABV) |91
AJ | Light, bright, garnet-red, with scarlet glints. Gently fruited, with a summer-copse fullness: leaf-litter over warm earth. Harmonious and rounded in that style. Relatively dry, restrained, and licorice-infused on the palate, with more of those warm-earth complexities. Fresh and attractive wine, in which there is no vintage strain evident. 2025–35. | 90
MP | Gorgeous nose, with very ripe black and red fruit, including cherry, plum, berry, and cranberry. The palate shows obvious ripe fruit and drying tannins. The fresh acidity lifts the back of the palate but the absence of complex fruit compromises this wine. 2028–33. | 92
Cabutto Tenuta La Volta Barolo 2020 (14.5% ABV) |91
SH | There is a lovely, bright ruby transparency to the color, which is appealing. The nose is delicate, pure, very clean, and transparent, suggesting very precise winemaking skills, with a bright red-cherry, citrus, or blood-orange note and very subtle background spice. On the palate, there is a vivid, bright core of acidity and quite fine, delicate, just-ripe cherry and red-currant flavors; the tannins are fine but grainy, silty-textured and quite assertive, but nicely integrated into the delicate framework. 2025–35. | 90
AJ | Bright, light, and mid-scarlet, with ample color saturation. Lots of tar and a whiff of smoke, too. The fruits here are a touch resinous. Attractive aromas, but not sublime or refined. Sound, dry, and sustained on the palate. Clean if rather sinewy fruit. 2025–30. | 85
MP | Simple but pure and appealing, with floral notes of rose and violet supported by red fruit, including currant, cranberry, wild strawberry, and a perfumed tertiary whiff of sandalwood, cedar, and incense. The palate shows perfect balance, with enough intensity, tannins, and acidity to show off the fruit to great effect. Utterly delicious and surprisingly ready to go. 2025–35. | 97
Ceretto Barolo Brunate La Morra 2020 (14.5% ABV) |91
SH | There is a touch of very toasted, roasted coffee bean on the nose, which is quite attractive, mixed in as it is with rose petal and just-ripe cherry and a little balsamic green note. Firm, crunchy, quite green flavors on the palate. Attractive freshness and acidity but just feels a little raw and straightforward. 2025–32. | 87
AJ | Pale and translucent garnet-red. Again the tarry warmth, which is almost a bit overdone this year—though to be fair, this wine has elegant, fresh fruit, too. Clean, fresh, articulate fruit on the palate, and qualitative, with well-meshed tannins and supportive acidity. A lovely, pert mouthful of Barolo, and taken all in all, the tarry notes in the end add to the classicism. 2025–32.| 89
MP | Discreet, complex, and perfumed nose, with notes of hawthorn, wild strawberry, pomegranate, and red currant. These are joined by subtle tertiary notes of licorice, ginger, forest floor, game, and cooked black fruit. The finish is elegant, compact, and delivers a lovely hit of Nebbiolo concentration, with notes of currant, cherry, violets, and tar. The tannins and acidity are all perfectly judged and drive the balance in this wine, which shows the fruit to such good effect. This is a delicious glass to enjoy now or squirrel away for a few years. 2027–37. | 96
Bruna Grimaldi Barolo Badarina Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14.5% ABV) |91
SH | Broad, open nose, with aromas of cooked red and black fruit, Bramley apple and blackberry notes, broad, round, softer mid-palate, with some slightly earthy, green-leaf and green-fruit flavors. This wine is less precise overall and a little more clumsy and “wild,” some bitter, green-olive flavors dominating on the finish. This wine is a little lacking in focus. 2025–32. | 88
AJ | Bright, scarlet red, with scarlet glints. A little dry and grassy aromatically, with a cool sinew underpinning what seems like lightly shaded fruit. Not actually green as such, but a cool cast to the fruit (oddly enough, after such a warm year). This is what you find on the palate, too. Could it be a whole-bunch wine? There is nothing wrong with the fruit qualities, other than that the print of ripeness here is not a serene and resonant one. 2025–32. | 88
MP | A hefty nose, showing black cherry, damson, plum, and black currant, combined with a palate that offers a convincing note of licorice and tar. Although it’s easy to dismiss this wine’s very obvious aromatics, the wine shows a ripe blast of black fruit pasted onto ripe tannins that support the fruit and provide a textural counterpoint. The length is exceptional and the fruit and the structure work in harmony. This is classic Serralunga and it’s pretty much ready to go. 2028–38. | 96
Manzone Barolo Bricat Monforte d’Alba 2020 (14.5% ABV) |91
AJ | Bright, light scarlet, with just a little bricking at the rim. Earthy and forceful, a bit cross-grained, without quite the purity of fruit of the best of its peers. Some new wood here? Attractive nonetheless. Mmm: this has much better fruit than the aromatics suggested in terms of penetration/concentration, and its style is excellent, with ample warmth and resonance. If there is wood here, it is very well absorbed on the palate; it’s above all that glowing fruit that one enjoys. 2025–34. | 90
MP | Lovely nose, showing obvious complexity and some ripe fruit, including cherry, cranberry, strawberry, and mineral oil. The palate is simple and dominated by tannins. 2025–30. | 91
Cantina Massara (Burlotto) Barolo Massara Verduno 2020 (14.5% ABV) |90
SH | Mid-deep ruby. On the nose, there is a little brown sugar, sun-dried, sultana aromas suggesting warmth and heat. The aromas lack some range and nuance for Barolo, they are appealing but a little one-dimensional. The palate is a little lean and over-stretched, as there is a feeling of greenness and a lack of ripe fruit. The acidity and tannins add bite and crunch but it lacks some joy. 2024–30. | 88
AJ | Also a relatively dark wine for this commune: translucent at the core, however. Oddly forceful fruits for Verduno, a commune I associate with graceful restraint. A little stewy and buzzy: muddled plum, currant, and rhubarb. Exuberant and characterful, though, and some may like it. As on the nose, this seems rather raw and coarse, with abrupt tannins and slightly spiky fruits. Perhaps that is what the vintage delivered. As for almost all our wines today, it is perfectly drinkable and will serve valiantly at table for most of a decade, but for me, not a Verduno of record. 2025–33. | 86
MP | Show-stopping nose of red currant, red apple, cherry, blackberry, rose petal, crushed strawberry, and raspberry compote, all combining to deliver a massive hit of pleasure for Nebbiolo lovers. The palate matches the complex fruit to elegant and dusty tannins, combined with fresh acidity and spicy notes of clove, cinnamon, incense, and allspice. The finish stretches on for a full 45 seconds with red and black fruit mingling with floral and spicy highlights. Delicious. 2028–40. | 97
Ca’Rome Barolo Cerretta Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (15% ABV) |92
SH | Bright-toned garnet-ruby. The nose is a little limited at first but opens up on standing to notes of red rose petal and sweet strawberry notes. On the palate, it is juicy and bright, with acidity and plenty of savory, silty tannins but a little lean in the middle. This wine is lacking fruit in the middle, making it feel a little pinched, but it has some lovely aromas and the tannins are well managed. 2025–35. | 90
AJ | Clear, bright garnet-red; translucent and glowing. Warm, fresh, and enticing: very attractively defined fruit, with a rosy autumnal glow and bakery warmth to them. There is some nascent secondary complexity here, too: dry herbs and dried wild flowers. One of the most attractive aromas in the tasting. On the palate, the wine is exuberant, slightly rough and ready, enjoyable but perhaps not as pure or exciting as I had hoped from the aromas. Sound in the vintage context nonetheless, and there is plenty to enjoy here. 2026–33. | 88
MP | Discreet, elegant, subtle nose, showing cooked red fruit, strawberry, raspberry, plum, black cherry, and vanilla. The tannins from obvious oak-maturation mask much of the more delicate aromatic characteristics and the finish is dominated by the very high alcohol. For those looking for a huge hit of obvious Nebbiolo fruit, there is much to enjoy. 2025–32. | 93
Ettore Germano Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14% ABV) |90
SH | A more evolved style of wine in terms of the nose. Faded rose-petal and muted bitter-cherry aromas combine with dried flowers on the palate, but there is juicy, vibrant acidity really holding this wine together. There is a little bite and firm tannic grip on the finish, but not so much density and concentration of flavor. 2025–32. | 89
AJ | Dark and resonantly colored, with impressive garnet-scarlet depths, though fully translucent. Lots of licorice, clay, and dry root spice here, with autumn leaf, moss, and a fenugreek note. The fruit, by contrast, is just a little bit submissive, but the overall effect is forthcoming and has great charm. Nothing vulgar, no false notes, and we are well beyond simple fruit here. A super nose. On the palate, the fruit is a touch drier and more sinewy than for the very best wines, but this is crafted with great skill and will provide fresh yet satisfying drinking over the short to medium term. 2025–38. | 91
MP | Developed and obvious, with notes of forest floor, cooked black fruit, bay, sage, mushroom, and griottes. The length is driven by very obvious alcohol and overt black fruit, suggesting that this was picked when very ripe. This is a very fruity and obvious Barolo that lacks subtlety. 2026–31. | 91
Gagliasso Barolo Torriglione La Morra 2020 (14.5% ABV) |90
SH | Good color intensity, faded ruby. The nose is rather flat and subdued, with some notes of background spice, cream, smoke, polish, black cherry. There is a slightly raw and underripe quality to the fruit, with some crunchy green notes, and the tannins feel quite drying. 2025–29. | 84
AJ | Clear, deep garnet-red; translucent at the core. Fine, fresh fruit here, with a purity and classiness not always evident elsewhere. The delivery is simple and straightforward: no sign of any layering yet, but that quality of fruit bodes well for the future. The palate delivers on the promise: aquiline, clean, impeccably defined fruit all the way through the palate, fresh and accessible. There isn’t either complexity or concentration, but this is still a lovely mouthful of Barolo for the short to medium term. 2025–33. | 89
MP | Pronounced, complex, and highly detailed nose, with a panoply of aromatic silos including red currant, strawberry, cranberry, black plum, Morello cherry, ginger, red apple, cedar, mushroom, and tobacco. The palate has zingy acidity and warming alcohol but these only serve to showcase the red and black fruit joined by incense, clove, marmite, and wild rose. Taken together, the structure and fruit drive an exceptional finish, with almost a minute of aftertaste. This is a lithe and haunting example of the vintage. 2028–38. | 97
Azienda Agricola E Pira e Figli Chiara Boschis Barolo Via Nuova 2020 (14.5% ABV) |90
SH | Medium-deep, garnet-toned, dull ruby. Simple, light, red-cherry aromas, some touches of cream and spice in the background. Round, smooth, medium-full on the palate, with an appealing freshness on the finish, and rounded, gentle-textured tannins. Some attractive black- and red-cherry fruit, if a rather short finish. Attractive and enjoyable. 2024–29. | 88
AJ | Translucent scarlet. Warm, graceful, and refined aromas of redcurrant and cut hay. Very harmonious for the four-year spot. Ample aromatic articulacy and indeed a sense of more to give. Intense, gathered, and indeed almost driving on the palate, with firm tannins and a more austere fruit style than I expected. The concentration is impressive and there are lovely afterbreath aromatics, too. Acids and tannins form quite a front here, though, and that is my only reservation about what seems otherwise an impressive wine. It comes over as a little craggy and unyielding. 2025–33. | 88
MP | Pretty nose, with red currant, pomegranate, red apple, and black pepper, with ink and toast. The palate shows dog rose, honeysuckle, and empyreumatic notes, including char and coffee. The finish has decent weight and unwinds with purpose but it is missing that extra gear and touch of finesse, with surprisingly high acidity, given the vintage. 2027–32. | 93
Silvio Grasso Barolo Bricco Luciani La Morra 2020 (15% ABV) |90
SH | This wine starts off with lots of sweet, ripe, red- and black-cherry aromas, and a very dense, perfumed, freesia-like quality, with sweet violet notes yet spicy, too. On the palate, it is round, soft, velvet-textured, and charming. The tannins and acidity are beautifully integrated into the body of the wine, while nothing stands out. Perhaps lacking some energy and precision, but a gentle, charming, and approachable wine that will please a lot of people. 2024–34. | 92
AJ | Pale, garnet-red; translucent. This has rather obvious, evident aromas, almost as if its fruits (cherry and currant) were tinned rather than fresh; a sweet hay note, too. It’s exuberant and characterful, though, so some may enjoy the aromatic profile. The palate is as the aromatics suggested. Drinkable, though for me lacks some finesse and classicism. 2025–31. | 85
MP | Pronounced nose with cooked cherry, black plum, woodsmoke, game, and cooked black plum. The palate shows a similar level of very obvious cooked black fruit, supported by high alcohol and chalky tannins, derived from wood maturation. This offers a big hit of immediate enjoyment but lacks subtlety and nuanced elegance. 2025–30. | 92
Cristian Boffa Barolo Capalot La Morra 2020 (14.5% ABV) |90
SH | Sweet, ripe, red-cherry and cream aromas are the top notes of this wine, with secondary aromas of smoke and flint. It is firmly structured on the palate but the fruit supporting this is a little green and unripe. A savory, food wine that needs a little more ripeness and generosity on the palate, but the tannins are nicely managed, firm without being harsh. 2025–32. | 89
AJ | Deep, translucent garnet-red, with scarlet glints. Another impressive La Morra aroma, with inviting fruit sweetness rather than alien vanilla. There is a fat, savory warmth beneath which not everyone will like but which adds to the wine’s character for me. Some plant and earth essences, too: more aromatic layers than for many. On the palate, the wine has slightly more concentration than most of its peers, and a more adventurous and secondary style, described for the aromas. Good work for this slightly dilute vintage. 2025–33. | 90
MP | Obvious nose, showing baked fruit, including plum and cherry, supported by vanilla, cedar, coffee grounds, black cherry, and cooked plum. On the palate, the obvious oak tannins quickly scramble to the fore and suppress the riper notes in the wine. The warming alcohol and obvious fruit complete the picture. Drink this crowd-pleasing wine now and enjoy its obvious charms. 2025–30. | 90
Fontanafredda Barolo La Villa Paiagallo Barolo 2020 (15% ABV) |90
SH | Complex, heady nose, with a touch of waxy polish, lavender, and sweet spice notes, but a little more rustic on the palate. The tannins are chunky and robust, and the acidity offers welcome refreshment, but unfortunately there is a lack of ripe fruit to balance these elements. 2025–30. | 87
AJ | Deep garnet but translucent and bright. Sweet fruits, well-rounded and balanced; softly harmonious and enticing. No great focus of aroma, but what is there draws the drinker into the glass. Lively, elegant, and shapely, with perhaps the best quality of 2020’s fruit: affable, likeable, moreish. Lovely soft tannins here, and the acidity, too, is soft, though both support well. Supremely drinkable. A totally uncomplicated glassful of delicious Barolo. 2025–35. | 90
MP | Very ripe, dark-fruit aromas, tinged with coffee and tar. The nose shows tobacco, licorice, raspberry jam, black cherry, tar, and oak notes of cedar and sandalwood. The palate is generously fruity, with red and black fruit allied to coffee, damp earth, dark chocolate, and vanilla. It lacks finesse and elegance, and the baked, cooked fruit dominates the finish. 2026–31. | 92
Manzone Barolo Gramolere Monforte d’Alba 2020 (14.5% ABV) |90
SH | Smoky, smouldering nose, with sweet oak and vanilla notes: a heavily oaked wine. Big, broad, and full-bodied, but with lovely, refreshing acidity. A powerful wine, but a little less about terroir? Well-made and charming, but more about winemaking, perhaps, than place. 2025–35. | 92
AJ | Bright, light garnet-red, right to the rim. Warm wood (though not sweet oak) and warm fruit, too, in attractive, soft-focus style; some vegetative notes, too. The flavors are very much those sketched out on the aromas: wood and fruit both meet in this wine, but successfully so, to subtle and convincing effect. Not notably concentrated but very palatable. 2025–34. | 89
MP | Edgy and green, with a rather meager nose and obvious oak notes that detract from the wine’s balance. The palate is similarly short-changed, with an absence of fruit and very firm tannins. 2025–29. | 88
Luciano Sandrone Barolo Vite Talin Barolo 2018 (14.5% ABV) |90
SH | Dark ruby color, opaque. On the nose, there are fragrant notes associated with oak more than fruit: polish, lavender, spice. A little heavy on the palate, with dark, burned, licorice flavors and heavy oak. Heavily extracted wine with a heavy handed style unfortunately masking identity. 2025–35. | 89
AJ | This dark, densely colored wine from 2018 seems to have a little more saturation than its 2020 stablemate (Luciano Sandrone Barolo Aleste). The extra two years in bottle have brought harmony but the style is a sweet one, with new oak still palpable. Dense and full, ripe, mellowing out well, despite what must have been quite a forceful style to begin with. Anyway, just a point of comparison for this tasting. 2025–33. | 88
MP | A huge amount of oak on display on the nose, with vanilla, sweet spice, licorice, cedar, vanilla, and coconut. The palate is awash in aggressive epicatechins and this robs the wine of balance. No doubt many will argue that this wine will age, but the tannins seem to dominate the palate at the moment and a question mark remains over their eventual resolution. It lacks balance. 2025–30. | 92
GD Vajra Barolo Coste di Rose Barolo 2020 (14% ABV) |90
SH | Pretty initially, but slightly tired aromatics. There is a dullness to the aromas that ideally would not be there, and on the palate, the fruit feels the same, showing a lack of precision and attention to detail. A little dull to drink. I would love more energy and vitality to elevate this wine. 2024–28. | 88
AJ | Deep black-red, out to transparent at the rim; some depth of color here, as for its stablemate (GD Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole). The fruit tone is a little drier and sweeter here than for the plush yet fresh Barolo Bricco delle Viole; there are some perfumed notes here, too. But you have to look a little; its stablemate delivers a fuller fruit profile at this stage. On the palate, too, this is a little lighter and more restrained, without the same depth of fruit and exuberance as its stablemate. Perhaps, though, the embroidery is a little finer and there is more allusive detail. Both are delicious wines and well worth a look, and the style contrasts between them are well-drawn. 2025–35. | 90
MP | Obvious and complex nose, showing vanilla, sweet spice, cedar, char, cinnamon, and clove alongside tinned strawberry, cooked fruit, and a vegetal note. The palate shows a better balance of tannins and fruit, but the vegetal note on the nose continues to make a mark and the palate lacks the finesse and complexity that it really ought to deliver. This is an enjoyable glass of Barolo for early consumption. 2026–31. | 93
Borgogno Barolo Barolo 2020 (14.5% ABV) |89
SH | Dense, heady, ripe strawberry combines with black and red fruits on the nose. On the palate, there is a kind of fresh savoriness, brightness, and vibrancy, together with some ripe fruit in the middle. There is a slightly rustic quality to the tannins, but there is also a charming quality to the fruit. 2025–32. | 89
AJ | A very slightly paler wine than the same producer’s other 2020 Barolo: clear garnet-red, almost to the meniscus. Warm, sweet, rounded, and graceful, with slightly finer-grained, intense, and perfumed fruits than its stablemate. Very attractive and inviting, with an unusual creamy depth. On the palate, too, this is a more complex and concentrated wine than its stablemate. Certainly more there. It is, though, a little dry, and there are some bitter notes on the finish. Best with food over the next decade. 2025–34. | 87
MP | Earnest, pronounced, and obvious nose, with notes of truffle, game, Bovril, marmite, black cherry, licorice, allspice, and baked cherry. The ripe tannins and generous alcohol work together to drive a long finish that relies primarily on the cooked black fruit rather than any additional complexity. In the glass, this offers a beguiling portrait of Barolo in 2020 but it just misses the high notes that further aromatic complexity would have delivered. 2028–33. | 92
Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc Castiglione Falletto 2020 (14.5% ABV) |89
SH | Sweetly fragrant, with orange peel and delicate, faded flower aromas. Warm, rich, and quite substantial on the palate. This wine has softly floral aromatics but it is a little heavy on extraction of tannins, and there is not quite enough fruit to support the dense structure. 2025–35. | 92
AJ | Light, translucent garnet-red, though the colors are sustained to the rim. Graceful and light-contoured aromas, with just a touch of papery dryness; light cherry and cranberry fruits. Some licorice, too. Softly attractive, in pure-fruited style. Some cream also. The palate follows the aromatic profile pretty exactly, save that the fruits seem a touch more jammy here than I expected. Concentrated and firm but in stylistic terms slightly awkward; this is clearly a difficult vintage to get right. 2025–35. | 87
MP | Fragrant notes of bay, sage, cooked plum, apple skin, and bramble all appear on the nose alongside a note of cooked veg and tar. The palate is lively and refreshing, although it misses the extra gear that the best wines from this vintage show. 2026–30. | 89
Luigi Baudana GD Vajra Barolo Cerretta Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14% ABV) |89
SH | The nose is intense and rich, with cherries soaked in alcohol, sweet vanilla cream, and spice. On the palate, it is full, round, and savory, with juicy, fresh acidity, but it is a little rustic in its delivery of Serralunga. The tannins are drying and not fully integrated into the body of the wine and there is a green flavor to the fruit.
2025–32. | 88
AJ | Deep red-black though translucent; garnet to scarlet. Bright, sweet cherry and currant fruit, with some fresh-cut hay notes. Almost touches of greenness or herbaceousness, not common in this vintage. Soupy, dilute; honestly disappointing for these vineyards. There is fair constitution to the wine but the aromatics and flavors lack resonance, purity, ripeness, and serenity. A little shocking. 2025–31. | 82
MP | Perfectly judged on the nose, with the classic dried-rose, tinned-strawberry, raspberry-jam, and violet notes of the very best of Serralunga. The nose offers a spectrum that includes red fruit but also embraces violets, black cherry, plum, and cranberry. The key ingredient is the way these work together to create an aromatic picture that encompasses a huge range of flavors without one proving dominant. The palate is similarly impeccable, the silkiest of tannins working with bright acidity and layers of fruit. Classic and beguiling. 2030–40. | 98
Rivetto Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14.5% ABV) |89
SH | Amorphous nose, lacking distinction, but some red and black fruits and gentle oak-spice combined to create a quite pleasant overall effect. Broad, black-cherry flavors combine with crunchy tannins and leafy green notes to create a rustic, characterful effect on the palate. Robust style on the palate, characterful but rustic. This wine lacks some of the finesse of the best wines of Serralunga. 2025–32. | 87
AJ | A deeper scarlet-garnet than many of its peers, yet some bricking at the meniscus, too. Earthy, warm, boisterous red fruits, with a sappy quality, yet with some sweetness, too. Attractive and vivacious, though still principally primary at this stage. A touch of smoke and phenol. More complete than many aromas on show today. Exuberant and mouth-filling on the palate, with fair concentration of fruit. The fruit isn’t very subtle, though, and nor is the spectrum of ripeness and resonance wholly satisfactory. But it’s a very good Barolo from qualitative vineyards and may provide fresh excitement while you are waiting for the riper vintages to achieve plenitude. Perhaps over-earthy on the finish. 2025–33. | 91
MP | Attenuated nose, with some lively herbal notes of bay, balsamic vinegar, and sage. The palate is exceptionally tannic, with lashings of mouth-puckering phenols and obvious oak notes of vanilla and caramel. This is a modern style of Barolo, with obvious oak and lacking the layers of fruit necessary to drive complexity. 2026–31. | 90
Arnaldo Rivera Rocche di Castiglione Barolo Castiglione Falletto (14% ABV) |89
SH | From vineyards in Castiglione Falletto UGA. These wines are sometimes seen as a transition in style between La Morra and Serralunga. Dark ruby in color, with tea-leafy notes on the nose. There is a firm, very assertive quality to the tannins on the palate, and the tannins have a dense, silty texture. Somewhat lacking in ripe fruit qualities, this wine seems a little too driven and austere at the moment. 2026–36. | 92
AJ | Vivid mid-garnet, right to the rim. Lively and fresh, with some cherry fruit evident; some oak sweetening, too? Pretty—though decidedly in sweet style. A touch of thyme for complexity. Light but honestly just a little stringy, without any sense of wealth or expansiveness of fruit. I can’t blame the producer, as the concentration seems sound and the aging process (despite the sweetness suggested by the aromas) wasn’t misguided, but the vintage just hasn’t delivered wealth and resonance. 2025–33. | 86
MP | The nose is a throwback to an older style of Barolo, with very obvious and ripe fruit showing bramble, black cherry, hawthorn, and some spicy notes including black pepper, clove, and cinnamon. The palate is richly scented with black fruit, but it lacks the breadth of aromatic complexity necessary to merit a higher score. 2026–32. | 90
Matteo Ascheri Barolo Coste & Bricco Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (15% ABV) |89
SH | Ripe black-cherry, cream, and spice notes; firm, forceful, chunky, and robust in style. Lacks some of the finesse associated with the very best wines of the Serralunga commune. Why? Because there is a slightly green, overextracted quality to the fruit and a bitter, green-olive flavor on the finish. The shortcomings or lack of ripeness have been addressed by creamy, vanilla oak, but it doesn’t quite work as a balanced whole. 2025–35. | 88
AJ | Bright yet relatively deep scarlet-garnet. Warm and fresh, with a fine mill of fruit and more secondary complexities than for most of its peers: soft leather, warm heartwood, dry leaves, a hint of fungi. Bravo for nourishing these complexities in a year when they didn’t come flocking. In the mouth, the wine is vivid and relatively generously contoured, with much of the complexity noted on the aroma. There’s a fine core of penetrating fruit, matched to soft, juicy, floral acidity and brisk tannins. The concentration is there, striking just the right balance between drinkability and sippability, and the overall effect is complex. Excellent work. 2025–38. | 92
MP | Wow. A highly aromatic nose reminiscent of Cognac, with a spirity note and very obvious, cooked black fruit, including cherry, plum, and damson—there is a baked, almost oxidative character. On the palate, the very high alcohol is the most obvious participant, with the fruit a distant second. The finish is warming—even spirity—and it lacks elegance. 2025–28. | 86
Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2020 (14.5% ABV) |88
SH | Medium-deep, youthful, dark ruby color. The nose is gentle but has some depth and layers of aroma, with fragrant notes of rose and iris supported by black cherry and subtle touches of cream and spice. Round and soft first impression in terms of weight and texture, but slightly green fruit, unripe cherry and bitter cranberry flavors, bright, juicy acidity, but with quite a drying, tannic finish. Despite such a promising start on the nose, the palate feels a little harder, with unripe tannins. Pair with rich, meaty dishes to show its best. 2024–28. | 84
AJ | Deep scarlet, right to the rim, but translucent for all that. Cherry is the principal fruit note here, with some earthy plum beneath. Vanilla, too. Some use of small oak, clearly. Attractive, but more primary than many of its peers, and honestly a little sweet for my taste. On the palate, the oak is less evident (other than in a dryish firmness of tannin); the currants are concentrated, and those fruit flavors have not in the end been over-sweetened or compromised. Relatively chunky and four-square in style. 2025–30. | 86
MP | Discreet and elegant nose, with very fine notes of red currant, tinned strawberry, hawthorn, red cherry, red apple, black cherry, cinnamon, and cedar. This has a certain refined elegance and polished, powdery tannins that help the wine finish with tremendous length and vibrancy. There’s weight and structure but also the concentration of fruit and complexity necessary to help this develop. 2028–35. | 95
Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno Barolo 2020 (14% ABV) |88
SH | Medium-deep garnet, rather than ruby, in color. The nose is soft and not very incisive, like diffused light, with notes of warm spice, cream, and a touch of ripe, black-cherry coulis. There is a nice harmony and integration on the palate, with ripe, sweet cherry, robust tannins, and lively acidity. Charming and approachable. 2024–32. | 89
AJ | Limpid and translucent garnet-red. Less articulate than its other blended peers. Soft, sweet fruits, but I’d be hard put to say which fruits. Open, somewhat dilute, but attractive drinking, as well-crafted Barolo has to be. This won’t ever be anyone’s dream Barolo, and the reputation of this name might mean that this wine disappoints a little, despite its clean, ready affability. 2025–30. | 85
MP | Simple nose with blackberry, cooked plum, black cherry, cedar, vanilla, and coffee. The palate has more weight, but this is derived primarily from tannins, which are obvious and grippy. The finish looks to cooked black fruit, with some dried rose and licorice. A pleasant wine for early consumption but lacking complexity. 2026–30. | 91
Aurelio Settimo Barolo Rocche Dell’Annunziata La Morra 2020 (15% ABV) |88
SH | This wine is medium deep, quite dense colored garnet ruby. A gentle nose of wild flowers, cherries macerated in alcohol, hay and dried-grass notes, not a precise nose but multi-layered and hedonistic. There is something autumnal, too, like the last days of summer as it fades into autumn. Gravelly textured tannins, juicy acidity but a little disjointed on the palate, lacking some depth and intensity of fruit in the middle. 2025–32. | 90
AJ | Deep black-red: a dark-hued though limpid wine. Generous if slightly soupy fruits, with lots of plum and black cherry; a touch of vanilla. Ample depth and generosity, but I’m not wild about the style: rather more vanilla than I’d like, and the fruits are a little sharp-elbowed, with rustic tannins and some bitter finishing notes. 2025–30. | 84
MP | The dark color and cooked character on the nose indicate a fully ripe style, with cooked plum, black cherry, vanilla, creosote, Marmite, cedar, incense, and licorice. This has a very long finish, driven by the block-buster style of the fruit and dusty tannins. There is a lick of acidity to keep things on the boil but it is a clunky, lumbering style of Barolo that struggles to communicate the aromatic complexity of La Morra. 2025–30. | 91
Damilano Barolo Cannubi Barolo 2020 (14.5% ABV) |88
SH | Sweetly floral notes, but dried flowers, slightly faded aromas of pretty violet and freesia. Charming in terms of bright acidity giving a mouth-watering feeling and fine-textured tannins, but the ripeness and quality of the fruit in the middle is lacking, giving a lean quality to the fruit overall. 2024–29. | 88
AJ | Clear, bright, and inviting: a translucent garnet red. Lots of warmth here (and for a warm to hot year, it is surprising how rarely one smells this note in the wines), and with some dry grass and camphor notes. There is a pulse of curranty fruit beneath, and the overall effect is attractive and balanced, though perhaps not ultra-classical for a four-year-old. Vivid and lively, moderately concentrated, but with ample fruit to enjoy. This will see out a decade without difficulty, though this is not a wine about which anyone will ever write reams. Straightforwardly enjoyable. 2026–33. | 88
MP | Cool, vegetal characteristics, including dill, mint, hay, and silage. The palate suffers in this flight, and although this wine has no obvious faults, it is just very seriously out-classed. 2026–30. | 89
Vietti Barolo Lazzarito Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14.5% ABV) |88
SH | A light nose, with some sweet cherry fruit. It is simple but appealing, if a little one-dimensional. Round, juicy, with quite robust tannins, which are a little firm and chunky in style. Lacks some depth and range of aromas and flavors. 2025–34. | 88
AJ | Bright, clear garnet-red. Very primary fruit notes—red cherry; with sweetness from cinnamon, cola. Striking; in some ways attractive; those sweetnesses are not overdone. Soft and relatively simple on the palate, though. Too much rain! A nice quaff but Barolo should be more than a quaffing wine. 2025–28. | 84
MP | The nose suggests contact with some new oak, with obvious woody notes of spice, vanilla, caramel, and coconut. Beneath that, there is a layer of red and black fruit including tinned strawberry, raspberry, and cherry. In the mouth, the wine shows decent concentration of fruit allied to supple tannins and bracing acidity. It lacks ultimate complexity and the finish is moderate. 2028–35. | 93
Ettore Germano Barolo Prapo Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14% ABV) |87
SH | A little heavy with sweet oak and toast aromas, a little broad on the palate and simple, lacking some cohesion and harmony. Slightly sweet fruit and jammy notes, but the tannins feel a little brutal and green. 2025–32. | 87
AJ | Very light, crystalline, and translucent, barely deeper than rose-red. Warm, clean, delicately fruited: light red currant and pomegranate, with an infusion of thyme. It grows a little grassier and stringier with time in the glass, though, rather than amplifying the fruit core: perhaps a worrying sign. Intense and vivid and drivingly acidic, without the palate wealth and resonance to carry the acidity. A slender wine, finally, which I don’t see improving much in the future. (Odd at 14% ABV…) 2025–31. | 84
MP | Very obvious nose, showcasing vegetal notes of cooked veg, licorice, and cooked black fruit, including cherry and plum. The palate has some spicy complexity but the vegetal notes from this difficult vintage seem to occlude the fruit. There’s a fine layer of tannins and bright acidity but this lacks concentration on the finish. 2027–32. | 91
Damilano Barolo Lecinquevigne 2020 (14.5% ABV) |87
SH | Medium-deep garnet color, already showing some evolution. The nose is fairly quiet and subdued, with some dried cherry wrapped in a little creamy spice and a little note of rose petal now and then. This wine is light in terms of fruit concentration on the palate, with an almost dried cranberry flavor. Lacks a little joyful fruit in the middle, so the tannins feel a bit drying on the finish, but acidity contributes a fresh finish. 2024–26. | 84
AJ | Light, translucent garnet-red; one of the lighter wines in the flight of blends. Principally fruity at this stage: red currant and pomegranate. Just a touch of tar behind. Soundly classical. Limpid, forthright, scrutable: firm fruit dominates here. Poised ripeness and fair length. Sound drinking. 2025–31. | 87
MP | Pronounced and gamey nose, with notes of blackberry, bramble, black cherry, cooked fruit, mineral notes, vanilla, cedar, licorice, and toffee apple. Very obvious and fat, with a chunky, four-square finish that is slightly hot and baked. 2027–32. | 90
Borgogno Barolo Liste Barolo 2020 (15% ABV) | 86
SH | Bright garnet-ruby core. A muted nose, with some warmth and sweet spice but not much range of aromas. A little drying on the palate and lacking some generosity of fruit. Plenty of tannins and acidity but lacks some joy in the middle. 2025–32. | 84
AJ | Bright garnet-red. Gently smoky fruits here, open and scrutable. A touch of phenol. Exactly as the nose suggested: straightforward, even simple Barolo of uncomplicated pleasure. 2025–32. | 86
MP | Interesting nose led by vegetal notes of bay, cabbage, and forest floor. The palate is dominated by green notes and lacks the complexity and heft necessary to merit a higher score. Simple and disappointingly short. 2025–28. | 88
Ettore Germano Barolo Cerretta Serralunga d’Alba 2020 (14% ABV) |81
SH | Odd nose; quite perfumed but constrained by some oak, not allowing the real character of Nebbiolo to come out. Curtailed and shortened palate; overly drying, with an extracted feel. 2024–24. | 79
AJ | Light, translucent, and graceful garnet-red. Earthy; a touch murky. Reductive, or … ? Bottle 2: For me, a better bottle: less aggressively murky, with slightly sweeter fruits. Disappointing on the palate, though: dilute and rough. Unclean, moreover. 2025–25. | 78
MP | Obvious VA on the nose, with a bold hit of camphor, vinegar, and cooked black fruit. Difficult to see this improving. 2025–29. | 85
