Simon Field MW joins longstanding chef de cave Michel Fauconnet at the launch of Laurent-Perrier Héritage.
Michel Fauconnet is one of Champagne’s more enigmatic characters. A fluent English speaker who prefers to present in French (unlike most of today’s willingly urbane chefs de cave), he has been in situ since 1973 and remains to this day, clearly with the full backing of the familial powers that be, most recently Lucie Pereyre de Nonancourt, the ambassadorial face of the fourth generation of Bernard’s lineage. When asked about his plans, Fauconnet shrugs: “This is my life’s métier. And in any case, practice makes perfect.” It is hard to disagree when one assesses what has been achieved over the years.
Technical brilliance, attention to detail, and a highly creative mind have all played their part. Laurent-Perrier has so often been at the vanguard, ideologically speaking. One need only think of the introduction, as far back as 1976, of its Ultra Brut or even cogitate on the minutiae of Grand Siècle, a Multi-Vintage deluxe cuvée that was stylistically prescient in so many ways. And now to complete the triptych of blended wines (La Cuvée Brut Non Vintage being the third component), we have the release of Laurent-Perrier Héritage, which again subtly recalibrates the dial.
Laurent-Perrier Héritage: Beyond the base
It does this by eschewing the significance of the base year and focusing exclusively on “older” reserve wines, all of which are afforded primacy in terms of their contribution to the blend. All four of the vintages in the debut release (2014, 2016, 2018, and 2019) are primus inter pares in terms of their structural contribution, and one is thereby subtly encouraged to reassess the Multi-Vintage template. A gentler innovation than some, maybe, but an innovation nonetheless.
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Michel is specific in rehearsing the chain of command. “Héritage is born out of the savoir-faire of Grand Siècle,” he says. “Through the art of assemblage, the cuvée represents a definitive statement of the significance of multiple reserve wines from multiple sources and celebrates their diversity. Héritage,” he adds, for good measure, “is all about purity, the purity of the Champagne terroir.” Why, in other words, allow some of these distinctive and excellent tanks of reserve wine, deliberately kept aside for up to 20 years, to become engulfed and hidden within the voluminous NV blend? Why indeed, especially when there is clear commercial advantage in keeping them apart.
While Grand Siècle, in line with Bernard’s stipulations, was to be sourced only from 11 specific grand cru villages, Laurent-Perrier Héritage casts its net significantly wider and sources its fruit from no fewer than 40 villages, including Chardonnay from celebrated sites such as Villers-Marmery (a de facto grand cru, some may say), in addition to powerful Pinot Noir sourced as far south as Les Riceys in the Côte des Bar. A broad palette of provenance, then, its very diversity providing the perfect foil to the four vintages in question. Michel identifies the characteristics of each: “freshness, especially with the Chardonnay” from 2014; “structure, in particular with the Pinot Noir” from 2016; “richness” from 2018; and “finesse’ from 2019. In other ways, Bernard’s requirements for Grand Siècle also have relevance for Héritage—specifically, the modest dominance of Chardonnay, described by Michel as “the backbone of our wines” and here making up 55% of the blend, the balancing 45% all from Pinot Noir; then the lack of oak influence or interference; and finally, the low dosage brought to bear. Both the Héritage and the current Grand Siècle, iteration 26, have been dosed at 6g/l. The length of the tirage differs significantly, however, with the Grand Siècle (iteration 26 comprises 2012, 2008, and 2007) enjoying more than twice as long on its yeast. The new Laurent-Perrier Héritage was disgorged in the spring of 2023 and therefore has been aged for just over 36 months on its lees.
Subtle but profound differences, then, but no loss of the essential character of reductive winemaking and structural elegance, which so beautifully echo the architectural magnificence of Laurent-Perrier’s familial estate in Louvois. Michel advises that this project came to his mind in 2012 but was only crystallized in 2014; future cuvées may or may not use four vintages, and the fruit will almost certainly be sourced from a slightly different backdrop. The vintages in question may or may not turn out to be declared in their own right, and the blend of grapes may also be different. Already, however, we can mark down yet another triumph for the tenacious Monsieur Fauconnet.
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Tasting
Laurent-Perrier Héritage
(55% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir;
dosage 6g/l; disgorged spring 2023)
Shimmering lemon gold, flecked with green. A firm nose of gunflint and acacia, its reductive personality almost aggressive at first blush. Air concedes beeswax, verbena, hawthorn, and green apples; taut, upstanding, and a little timid before breezy notes of white peach and papaya start to creep in, most welcome. The palate also treads a stony path, with hints of slate and petrichor slow to divulge what is sure to follow. We await battalions of fruity generosity and are for the moment happy to enjoy single spies of potential and flavor, sour honey, yeast, and almonds in their midst. Lots more still to give, one is happy to infer. | 93–94
