Tasting Notes

May 1, 2025

Bordeaux 2024: Pessac-Léognan and dry white recommended wines

Jeannie Cho Lee MW continues her selection of some of her favorite wines from the 2024 vintage.

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN

The total precipitation during the critical harvest month of September 2024 in Bordeaux broke all records, and the commune that was hardest hit was Pessac-Léognan. While St-Estèphe and Pauillac recorded 115–125mm (4.5–5 inches) of rain during this month, Pessac-Léognan recorded 164mm (6.5 inches)! The estates that made a strict selection and employed multiple levels of sorting (manual and the latest techniques), made very good wine from healthy, ripe grapes.

Despite the deluge, there were many producers who, like Château Haut-Bailly, decided that “Singin’ in the Rain” (its refrain for the 2024 vintage) was the best response to Mother Nature. For most conscientious producers with the necessary resources, the 2024 vintage required double the normal work and double the cost for only half the normal quantity.

I tasted more than 60 wines from Pessac-Léognan but cannot conclude whether the whites or the reds were better in this vintage. Rather, the quality in 2024 is producer-driven, and those that made excellent red wines also made excellent whites. As always, there were many criteria for success, but among them, responsiveness in the vineyard was key. Perhaps that is why, contrary to what one might expect, certified organic wineries, like Château Smith Haut Lafitte, fared well, most likely because they are good farmers and have learned to become ever more vigilant, anticipating and, as far as possible, reducing the risk from disease rather than using systemic fungicides. Many producers were able to rise above the vintage through attentiveness, experience, and sheer hard work, resulting in numerous delightful whites and reds from Pessac-Léognan.

Note: The ratings given here are provisional, since they represent the evaluation of unfinished wines tasted as barrel samples, not the final wines.

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN ROUGE

Domaine de Chevalier Cru Classé

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(65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot)

I love the nose of the 2024 Domaine de Chevalier: crushed rose petals, violets, ripe cherries, cassis, and savory herbs. The palate is equally enticing and vibrant, supported by ripe, supple tannins that carry through to a satisfying finish. This is one of the lightest expressions of Domaine de Chevalier in recent years but, as always, an honest one. It is in perfect balance, with freshness and purity that will be appreciated by those who enjoy elegant Bordeaux red wines with food, and don’t want to wait decades for the wine to open. 2030–45. 93

Château Haut-Bailly Cru Classé

(58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc)

This is an aromatic and refined Haut-Bailly, with delicate flavors of cherries, violets, tobacco, and red currants. The palate is composed and elegant, with clearly articulated flavors that are gentle, persistent, and lingering; the velvety tannins are polished and refined. This is a graceful wine with a quiet confidence and fine structure. Haut-Bailly is often a “late bloomer,” and often needs time in bottle to express its full potential—a wine to revisit once it is bottled. 2032–52. 93

Château Haut-Brion 1er Cru

(47.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37.5% Merlot, 15.3% Cabernet Franc)

Despite the challenging vintage conditions, this wine achieved remarkable concentration and density. The flavor profile is classic Haut-Brion: cigar box, smoke, savory spices, and blackberries. The palate is fairly dense and layered, with gorgeous, velvety tannins and a long, lingering finish. While not a big wine, there is excellent intensity and depth of flavor, with only 13.2% ABV. The 2024 is a testament to the estate’s superior terroir and ability to excel even in difficult years. 2034–54. 95

Château La Mission Haut-Brion Cru Classé

(51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46.5% Merlot, 2.5% Cabernet Franc)

La Mission has surprising density and body, exceeding expectations for this challenging vintage. The tannins are plush and solid, while the flavors show impressive concentration and remain quite tightly wound at this stage. I expected La Mission to have its characteristic, flamboyant aromatics, especially tasted next to Haut-Brion, but it is not yet revealing the definition and detail typically associated with this estate. The structure bodes well, however, for a wine built to age, and although it is currently very reserved, I am reassured of its potential given the depth of flavor, surrounded by suave tannins, and the long finish. 2033–53. 94

Château Latour-Martillac

(59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot)

This is a beautifully composed wine, with harmony and precision. The palate reveals layered flavors of juicy blackberries, plums, tobacco, and savory spices that are wonderfully detailed. Latour-Martillac has crafted a wine with quiet depth, finely textured tannins, and good freshness. The finish is persistent and lingering. 2032–52. 93

Château Smith Haut Lafitte Cru Classé

(67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot)

Smith Haut Lafitte was among the most successful producers in this vintage, with very low yields—only 21hl/ha—due to a selection of only the ripest, most flavorful grapes, from which to craft this sensuous red. The wine is beautifully balanced, elegant, and detailed, with layers of intense violets, savory herbs, and juicy red and black berries. There is wonderful concentration for this vintage but without any excess, and the wine has both purity and depth. 2032–52. 94

DRY BORDEAUX WHITE WINES

Domaine de Chevalier Cru Classé

(60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon)

A beautifully composed white from Domaine de Chevalier, with wonderful aromatics—white jasmine flowers, grapefruit, pomelo, and lemon zest. The flavors are precise and delicate, and linger on the palate long after the wine has gone. This vintage flaunts its slim figure, elegantly dancing on the palate with flavors that are finely tuned, refreshing, and subtly layered. This is a charming wine with poise and balance. 2028–36. 93

Château Cos d’Estournel Blanc

(60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon)

Gorgeous, elegant, well-composed white, filled with vibrant flavors that jump out of the glass—passionfruit, grapefruit, apricot, and lemongrass. A lingering note of crushed stones and apricots carries through the long finish. This is one of the best vintages of Cos Blanc in recent years, balanced, fresh, and well-crafted. It is slim, with vibrant acidity and only 12% ABV, but with astonishing clarity, intensity, and energy. 2027–37. 94

Château Duhart-Milon Le Blanc de Duhart-Milon

(62% Semillon, 35% Sauvignon Blanc, 3% Sauvignon Gris)

Fresh and lively, the Duhart-Milon Blanc is an exuberant wine. The aromatics are charming, filled with fresh mixed herbs, gooseberries, and lemon zest. The palate is fairly complex, with a nice depth of flavor and good length. Partial malolactic fermentation (completed in half the grapes) has added roundness, balancing the naturally high acidity. 2027–34. 91

Château Haut-Brion Blanc

(56% Semillon, 44% Sauvignon Blanc)

This white embodies subtlety and meticulous detail—a wonderful achievement in this challenging vintage. Layers of grapefruit, nectarines, acacia, and wet stone unfold gently on the palate, concluding in a lingering finish. This is a refined, serious Haut-Brion Blanc, with wonderful intensity of flavor and substantial body and structure (13.7% ABV), well worthy of extended cellaring. 2029–41. 95

Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc

(59% Semillon, 41% Sauvignon Blanc)

Bright, elegant, and expressive, La Mission Blanc is more aromatic and lighter than Haut-Brion Blanc. The palate is fresh and persistent, showing clarity and vibrancy, from the attack all the way through to the lingering finish. Both the nose and the palate are filled with passionfruit, apricots, white flowers, and fresh tarragon. This well-crafted, energetic wine will have a long drinking window—delicious in its youth, yet able to age easily for more than a decade. 2028–39. 94

Château Latour-Martillac Blanc

(60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon)

Latour-Martillac made wonderful white and red wines in 2024, staying true to its terroir and opting for elegance and harmony over power. The white is elegant and linear, with wonderful freshness and purity. The palate is delightful: citrus-driven, with notes of grapefruit, mixed herbs, and lemon peel, supported by lively acidity. What I enjoyed about this wine is its clarity and grace. 2027–36. 91

Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc

(100 % Sauvignon Blanc)

This vintage showcases the detail, refinement, and exceptional depth of Pavillon Blanc from a cooler vintage. There is energy and tension on the palate, with subtle layers of passionfruit, fresh herbs, acacia, and grapefruit. The wine has a graceful elegance even as its intensity reveals itself on the palate and throughout the persistent finish. An intense, energetic, impressive wine. 2028–39. 94

Château Smith Haut Lafitte Cru Classé

(60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon)

This is a hugely successful vintage at Smith Haut Lafitte, for both its red and white wines. Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is well-balanced and vibrant, with lively aromas of grapefruit, citrus zest, and a touch of white flowers. The palate is focused and detailed, delivering freshness and clarity without excess weight. It has a light body, but with sufficient depth and length to support extended cellaring. This is a refined, well-crafted white wine with precision and charm. 2027–38. 94