Nicolas Belfrage | Medium-depth ruby, a little oranging. Slightly dumb nose, leading to a similar palate, structure unresolved, fruit good but somewhat hidden behind a forbidding structure. Might be a long- distance runner but not drinking now. Assuming the former, points are awarded. | 90

Bruno Besa | Deep garnet to pink. Earthy, touch rustic nose of black fruits and road tar. Full body, with little charm at present and compacted, astringent finish. Maybe it will improve with time but not showing well today. | 85

Andrew Jefford | Deep though clear black-red. Lots of fresh- forest and red-berry charm here. The briskness of the vintage is apparent, but this wine rises well above that. Amply fruity on the palate, too, and the fruit has been chased and harried into ripeness, so it’s a wine that does the job admirably. The style is cool, primary, and fresh; there are shaping tannins, too. | 88