Nicolas Belfrage: Quite deep, almost opaque. Clean, attractive cherry-plum nose. Good concentration and structure; a little monolinear but well-stated fruit, certainly a good drink. From now for 10 years. 16

Stephen Brook: Lush smoky nose, but lifted and stylish. Ripe, almost jammy, and sleek. Seems rather superficial, though initially beguiling, since there’s not a great deal of concentration. The sweetness might be more acceptable if it were balanced by firmer tannins, but this seems to lack some grip and structure. In short, a bit obvious and lacking in nuance. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep though clear black-red. Attractive though relatively simple red-fruit aromas, flirting with a little jamminess. Tangy but unsubtle, this is a generous but artless wine with some bitterness and rough edges from coarse handling. Not a great advertisement for its terroir. 11