Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, virtually opaque. Attractive plummy/ black-cherry aromas on the nose. Lots of chunky ripe fruit on the palate, firm tannins, and okay acidity, Brunello of the weightier style. At first I found it a bit “soupy,” but it holds together well at the back of the palate. Drink from 2017 for eight years. 16

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to ruby. Youthful, clean nose of cassis and hints of mint. Full body with broad fruit and a fairly long finish. Very well made but lacking in typicity. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Dense black-red; an unusually dark wine. Quite beefy and meaty in its aromas, but it’s still not Châteauneuf; that natural Tuscan class gives it a woodland poise, too. Just a little bit reductive, in the final analysis (second pour, an hour in). Wow! Here’s ambition, on the palate: magnificent concentration, richness, and texture, and as full of finesse as you’d like. I’m in awe of the winemaker’s work with the tannins: ample, as weighty as leather, yet supersoft; commandingly handled. On the palate, indeed, this seems to me to be one of the very finest wines in the whole tasting. Aromatically, by contrast, we have perhaps caught it at a slightly unlucky moment; it’s just a little bit massive and slabby. But I have every confidence that in five years, all will have come good. 17.5