Stephen Brook: Discreet lemony nose. Rich, bold, full-bodied. Impressive weight of fruit without being exaggerated in its concentration. Lively acidity follows, refreshing the palate with a grapefruity tang. Almost lush, but also subtle and perky. A multifaceted wine that intrigues as well as satisfies. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Tangy. I'd have said slate if I hadn't been told it was a Rheingau. Fully unfurled, very slightly coarse texture. Perfectly fine but not exciting - lacks a bit of concentration and tension. 13

Alexander Scott: Aromatically similar to the Hattenheim Wisselbrunnen: reasonably ripe and classic Rheingau Riesling, but without any marked features or individuality. Is this from the same stable? But on the palate, much more energetic and concentrated; noticeably riper, too. Good, if lacking excitement. 14