Nicolas Belfrage: Nose more open than the 1996. Plenty of fruit and floral character on the nose, generous and inviting. Surprising, creamy palate (for Barolo), uppish alcohol but carries it well. Porty finish, lots of sweet cherry-berry fruit, glycerol, power. Good example of the virtues of 1997, tending towards the modern style. Not going to evolve a whole lot. Drink now for six years. 16.5

Simon Larkin : The aromatic here suggests beef stock with a herbal edge, and there is an off-putting stewy plum element behind. A little edgy on the palate, the fruit is already suggestive of leather and other tertiary characteristics. This shows little generosity and some fairly forceful tannins. An unconvincing style that lacks an overall sense of harmony. An uncertain future ahead, at least on this showing. 13.5