Nicolas Belfrage: A little deeper in colour than the 1996, and a little more volatility on the nose, but the volatility isn't negative even if it teeters on the edge. Acidity is key to the palate here too, quite marked, gives the wine character but risque. Fruit doesn't quite match the structure (tannins firm too), but it’s unmistakably Barolo. Were there troubles in the vinification, or will it come together in time? Give it three years then look again. 14

Simon Larkin : Slightly stewy damson aromatics are quite off-putting here. The palate is equally troublesome, showing some drying tannins and marked, comparatively astringent acidity. This is slightly disjointed in style, with a marked, warm alcoholic finish. This is not showing well, casting doubt over its future and perhaps the winemaking. In need of re-evaluation. 12.5