Nicolas Belfrage: Quite deep. Attractive fruit-and-spice nose. The palate, however, is on the sour-savory side, rather than the sweet Porty side; tannins slightly aggressive. May come around. Drink from 2018. 16.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink, tawny rim. A rustic nose, a touch dumb, with black fruits and spices. Austere and full-bodied; a touch green on the finish. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep garnet red. Elegant, planty, and refined: an attractive and classical aromatic complex, though just a little bit green overall. Slender and tight-gathered on the palate; it’s really a wine in a fine vintage that contrives somehow to suggest a difficult vintage. But it would be a very, very good wine in a difficult vintage! In other words, it is probably the producer’s choice, and it has many Barolo virtues to it: phenolically ample, taut, craggy, and long, with a haunting, complex aromatic spectrum. Another wine for the classicists to take a good look at. 16