Alison Buchanan: Initially once again a certain confected character showed though – often a result of cold handling. Here the palate continued along the same lines as the nose, subduing orchard fruits. It did not quite throw off that very particular fondant character throughout. 13

Alex Hunt: Spiky, leafy nose. Tart, thin, underripe and not perfectly clean. 9

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold. Sweetly grassy; lots of simple charm. Bright, vivid and incisive; fresh and ripe; with almost Riesling–like levels of inner vibration. Pungent and delicious; springtime in a glass. 16