Alison Buchanan: Yellow-gold, this has a lovely nose with a mélange of sweet, spicy, smoky fruit and definite hints of the exotic. Rich, seductive and creamy, there are tropical elements but not overblown. There is freshness there and minerality and this is unlikely to be confused with a southern hemisphere wine. 16

Alex Hunt: Red apple and hazelnut; more Chardonnay than Sauvignon on the nose, but actually very convincing. This oaked style comes as a bit of a shock, and it’s slightly overdone, but at least there is no clash between the fruit style and the wood. With a gentler hand in the winery, this would be a sure success. 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Full yellow. Pretty though disarmingly Burgundian aromas. I would certainly have placed this wine in the Côte d’Or on the basis of this rich, ripe, leesy and oaky aroma profile. The relatively vivid acidity takes us back to the Central Loire, but this is still a mightily full and chewy Sancerre. Delicious, too, so long as you’re not expecting anything classic. It’s long, with lots of depth and extract; it will last well, too. Excellent work with this amazing vintage, though it doesn’t quite have the aromatic power or sensual singularity of 44 (2003 Gitton Père et Fils Les Romains). 16.5