Alison Buchanan: Rather casual version of the same wet woolly nose, which is actually really attractive. Wet wool and honey allied to stone fruits and a profound mineral structure set the pace and are borne out on the palate, which is taut and rich and slightly austere. 16

Alex Hunt: Muted vegetable nose. Concentrated but lean and angular; too much vegetable, too little fruit. 11.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold. Aromatically void. Short and thin, though not sharp. A little wine that never stood a chance of outfacing the clock. 8