Nicolas Belfrage: Attractive, mid-depth ruby-garnet. Clean, reasonably developed herb/cherry nose; leads you in. Nicely balanced palate, good concentration of herby/oaky/fruity aromas, nicely held in a bowl of firm but not sour acidity; solid but not excessive tannins. Finishes long and complete, a pleasure now, so one wonders about long-term prospects. Should be all right. 17.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny rim. Intense yet slightly simple nose of prunes, graphite, and Bing cherries. A touch green on the palate, with clean cranberry fruit, fairly long. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Dark red-black. Complex, secondary aromas in which ripe curranty fruits mingle with cream, coffee, and incense woods. Vivid, poised flavors (more plum and plum skin than currant here), with grippier tannins than many; and those tannins seem freighted with dark licorice-root and gentian complexities. I adore its dark, unshowy, but fine-grained finish, in which those plant essences continue to linger. A beautifully balanced, calm, refined Brunello of impressive amplitude. 18