Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Somewhat flat, vanilla-dominated nose. Rich, ripe, and rather heavy on the palate; plenty of substance but not much grace. Firm acidity helps, but the tannins are oppressive, and there is a sensation of weight at finish. Drink from 2017. 14

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny rim. Touch-rustic nose, yet broad and mature with forest undergrowth, smoked meat, and mature black fruit. Full body, with balanced tannins and acidity; slightly simple finish. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Another wine where the ripeness of the vintage is amply evident, with the scent of sweet, dimpled fruits thickened with a little coffee. On the palate, this is a lush, deep, generously contoured wine that flirts a little with overripeness—but I love generosity and would enjoy drinking this. In the end, the fruits still hold their poise, the tannins are soft, the acidity juicy and tempered, so what’s not to like? 16