Nicolas Belfrage: Medium-deep, quite youthful. Nose and palate more cherry pip than cherry flesh—that is, a certain austerity that could be said to reflect the genre, though this hasn’t come together… yet. Will it? The fruit is there, but not the charm. 15.5

Stephen Brook: Robust and ripe black-cherry-and-blackberry nose. Ripe and rounded, sumptuous in texture, yet there’s no trace of jamminess. Tannic and spicy, yet the components, acidity included, seem in balance. A suave hedonistic style that’s already accessible but clearly has the structure to age well. Hard to fault and has complexity and impressive length. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red, though no longer opaque. Ripe, lush, slightly mallowy aromas, without the aromatic refinement and tension of the best. Deep, plump, full, generous, but unrefined. A full-throated, exuberant, and amply contoured red from Central Italy, yet I don’t find the aromatic subtlety and nuance that I hope for from Brunello. Some of this may come with time, but I suspect that this is slightly too galumphing a wine ever to reach the heights. 14.5