Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep, with turn on the rim. Pungent, expressive nose of ripe fruit—plums, faint note of prune, sour cherry; good persistence. Tannins ripe and plentiful, firm acidity to see it through the years. Attractive, sweet, almost Porty hit on the finish; a touch of bitterness, too—not to my taste but quite classic. Good length, has structure and fruit to last. Drink from 2017. 88

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Firm savory nose, a touch oxidative but also brooding and dense, with lurking cherry fruit. Dense attack, with furry tannins hitting the palate fast, though balanced by some lively acidity which perks up the palate. Not yet harmonious, and at this stage one wouldn’t expect that, but it’s impressive and weighty rather than pleasurable. There’s good length here, but the tannins are a bit overbearing. 88

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. A powerful, somber aromatic profile; deep, earthy, and vivid. Mushrooms and incense: an invitation to the feast. Roasted red fruits beneath. Intense, tightly sewn, driving flavors, with ample, penetrating, plum-drenched acidity and firm though finely buffed tannins. A cascade of flavor, finishing with mushroom and dry spice. Authoritative and commanding, though needs more cellar years before it will relax into drinkability. A true classic in style, it is very nearly punishing just now, but the raw materials are first class and I feel confident about its future. A truly outstanding fine wine. I review this wine (which was served first in the tasting order) in the light of all the wines that follow, and it seems to me to be the most sheerly concentrated of all, with the longest finish. 96