Nicolas Belfrage: Attractive rather deep royal hue. Small-berry fruit on the palate, very smooth ripe tannins, and good enough acidity. Quite a class act, though perhaps a tad over the top. Drink from 2017. 90

Stephen Brook: Deep to very deep red. Sweet, smoky redfruits nose, with a savory edge. Medium-bodied, graceful and poised rather than powerful, this is nonetheless very concentrated, with firm tannins. The texture is sleek, and there are no rough edges, and there’s sufficient acidity to give some persistence. Youthful, of course, and needs time to settle down and harmonize. Sweetly ripe and thus close to confected, otherwise I would rate it even higher. Good length. 90

Andrew Jefford: Deep, clear black-red. Warm, sweet, rounded, and attractive, with something almost like rosebuds in there. I did not expect this, but don’t dislike it either. Lively, open-pored, scrutable, and generous, with beautifully ripe acidity and a winning completeness; just about ready now. Could Brunello Riserva ever be “juicy”? Not really, but this isn’t far off either. A lovely mouthful of serious red wine. 84