Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 5; bright. Clean, fruit-driven nose, fresh and dried kumquats. Sweet, with reasonably good acidity, this could be an archetypal Vin Santo and yet has nothing special. Reasonable length, jammy fruit; has type but is a bit middle-of-the-road. 14

Michael Edwards: Bright amber; gold lights. Gentle yet luscious, crystalline; preserved apricot, peach, and mandarin scents. The palate is a confirmation of the nose, all nicely balanced acidity, measured sweetness, and a poised, well-made feel. 15.5

Jancis Robinson: Mid-orangey tawny. Light and rather simple—even a little sticky—on the nose. Mid- to light sweetness and without startling clarity or concentration, though it would do the job of providing something sweet and lightly oxidized at the end of a meal. Rather pale in all respects. No great persistence. Drink 2009–14. 15.5

Franco Ziliani: Very brilliant, vibrant color, full of energy and gold-amber reflections. The nose is very dry and salty, with dried orange, oriental spice, and very ripe fruit notes, as well as chestnut honey, aromatic herbs, and a hint of tobacco—great complexity. The palate is dry, with only a little sweetness that appears, so gently, on the aftertaste. Salty, balanced acidity and alcohol, and a very long, vibrant finish, with marvelous freshness. 17