Jesús Barquín: Chestnut. The nose offers burned-match and rancio notes, predicting a sweetness confirmed by the palate. This makes the mouthfeel too gentle. The finish is long, with a hint of orange peel. Not my preferred Amontillado style, but very “British.” 14

Andrew Jefford: Deep walnut, with russet glints, but also a flatter hue than some. Frankly I’m not keen on this: heavy hessian and an almost farty caskiness. Just too much bodega and not enough wine. On the palate, it is dry, long, and sound enough, without the slightly oppressive character of the aromas, but if I’d opened a bottle with high hopes, I’d consider them dashed. Not faulty, but not an aesthetic success, either. 10

Richard Mayson: Deep amber-mahogany; heady, burned aromas, slightly cooked and pruney on the nose, almost maderized; rich and powerful but rather coarse overall, distinctly rustic on the finish. A wine with obvious age and some complexity but very hard to drink. 13