Nicolas Belfrage: Slightly cooked quality on the nose. The palate features more bigness than finesse. A wine that’s trying hard to impress, but not quite making it. 13

Stephen Brook: Deep red. Reserved nose, quite oaky. Fairly rich, plump, concentrated and lush, but this has ample acidity to balance the plummy fruit. Still a bit raw, and I’m not entirely sure that it will harmonise. Quite good length. 16.5

Alison Buchanan: Black garnet - limpid. Polish and spice on the nose, not wholly attractive. The palate is so much better. Spice and pepper, leather and tobacco. Refined. Good balance, but not for long ageing. 16.5