Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep, ruby rim. Quiet nose, but subtle, nuanced. Medicinal herb, sweet fruit, and bitter flavors on the palate, a good spread of flavor carried by lively acidity. Plenty of room for improvement. Drink from 2017. 16.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny; pink rim. Broad, mature, yet extremely elegant black-and-redfruit nose, with prunes, raw red meat, smoke, and spices. Full-bodied and mature, with prunes and cinnamon palate. Good effort, but a bit overripe. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. A very ripe nose, but just a bit dangerous, with what might prove to be Bretty elements. On the palate, ditto, and the whole is rather softly constructed and unthrusting for the terroir. Drink sooner rather than later. 11.5