Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, bright. Quite oaky, almost reduced on the nose. Pity, because there’s very bright sour cherry on the palate, a hint of bitter with the good structural tannins. Will that nose blow off? Perhaps needs retasting at end of tasting. Check it out in three to four years. 15.5

Bruno Besa: Garnet to tawny rim. Broad nose of dried prunes, coffee, vanilla extract, and sour cherries. Medium body with lively tannins and clean finish. Well made but a bit lean. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Refined and smoky, understated but very satisfying. Lots of twig-andacorn, green-coffee-and-bayleaf refinement. On the palate, this is a well-judged mid-weight wine where the fruit accent is firmly on cherries rather than the black-plum territory that most have strayed into. The acidity is prominent, structuring, lean, and long, but resonant, too, and the secondary complexities that dominated the aroma are also apparent on the palate. Are there any wines in this tasting that aren’t delicious? Another wine that cries out for drinking, and before too long. 16