Jesús Barquín:Brown amber. Complex and suggestive aromas, with layers of everything you would expect, and a noticeable side of orange-blossom honey. Balanced on the palate, spices, peppermint, some marzipan on the finish. Long and delicious on the aftertaste. 97

Andrew Jefford:Pale and burnished; glowing orange-russet colors. Sweet, soft, refined; a cloud of vanilla and orange peel, buttered walnut, and cracked nutmeg. Disarming and seductive. Silky and graceful in texture; hugely concentrated, with a great billowing off the tongue of apricot and walnut vapor. As all of that subsides, it comes down in a fine sweet-bitter mist that drills into the tongue with a thousand tiny bits. This is a hugely refined and convincing 30 Year Old, and an arresting fortified wine by any measure. Pure, long, dazzling. 95

Richard Mayson:Quite pale and mature in color in this context; showing its age on the nose, with a touch of Douro bake and rusticity—just stops short of vinagrinho. Similarly mature and evolved in style on the palate; rich, a touch balsamic, especially toward the finish, where it goes over the top and loses its fruit and freshness. A wine to respect, but not my style. 86