Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Nose of very evolved fruit. Chunky, muscular, with lowish acidity and slightly drying tannins and a bitter finish. Lacks charm. 84

Bruno Besa: Deep tawny to tawny. Ripe, mature, a touch rustic, black-fruit nose. Full body, with big tannins. A rustic wine with little finesse. 84

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red in color. A little bit reductive in aroma when initially poured, but generous, chunky, fat, and full, with plenty of planty amplitude; perhaps a little time will clean off the reduction and leave it purer and more pristine. [Time in the glass helps enormously.] On the palate, this is actually a wonderful example of this very ripe, very generous vintage: a great roar of leonine fruit, but ample tannins to tame it all and put it into context. On the palate, this is an absolutely authoritative and grand wine. It’s such a shame that the aromas aren’t just a little more pristine. But they are clearing every time I go back to them. And the palate wealth is a marvel: nutty, pure, dense, profound, tight-sewn, and long. On the palate, this is unquestionably one of the wines of the day. 94