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Bordeaux 2022 tasting notes: Right Bank part I—St-Emilion

By Simon Field MW

Simon Field MW’s tasting notes from the Bordeaux 2022 en primeur tastings move to the Right Bank with wines from St-Emilion.

Bordeaux 2022: Something new under the sun—Catch 22

Bordeaux 2022 tasting notes: Left Bank part I

Bordeaux 2022 tasting notes: Left Bank part II

Bordeaux 2022 tasting notes: Sauternes

Château Angélus
(60% CF, 40% M)
Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal has tilted the style of Angélus with almost imperceptible subtlety, and one may now be disinclined to describe it as essentially “modern.” “Brilliant” is probably a more apposite word. With half of the old-vine Cabernet Franc aged in foudre, the oak is less intrusive, and the sheer quality of the fruit given full rein. Behind the blackberry and cassis, there are hints of juniper, black pepper, and rose petal. The filigree elegance of the tannins, despite their obvious power, gives the wine a silky, youthful charm, which it is hard to resist. 95–96

Château Ausone
(50% CF, 50% M)
54-year-old wines, surveying the ramparts of the medieval city and somehow seeming to carry the reputation of the whole village, but only because it has always done so. The Vauthiers can trace direct forebears to 1690, in the time of the Sun King. 2022 is as good a year as any to explain away the reputation; layers and layers of structure and finely defined tannin, perfectly ripe fruit, black cherry and cassis to the fore, wonderfully poised in every respect, concentrated and generous. The finish tapers elegantly but is firm and intense; there is a lot more to come here, and a lot that has already been visited upon the lucky few. 96–97

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La Chapelle d’Ausone
(60% CF, 35% M, 5% CS)
Shared between the limestone plateau and the calcareous slopes, within the purview of the eponymous chapel (prettier and a little less foreboding than the Jaboulet leitmotif), and sharing the famous terroir of the grand vin, this is an excellent younger sibling. The nose rejoices in herbs, spice, and dark fruit, with a hint of thyme, too; thereafter it broadens out and becomes a little creamier, leisurely, indulgent even. Just to make sure we do not get too comfortable, there is a fine, forbidding, saline grip on the back, which ties up the ensemble in a most satisfactory manner. 93–94

Château Barde-Haut Grand Cru
(80% M, 20% CF)
Located on the eastern edge of the limestone plateau, Barde-Haut enjoys the warm climate of an amphitheater, with a significant clay topsoil, which proved useful in 2022. The cloak of new oak (60%) is worn quite heavily at the moment, the tannins unusually grippy in this normally counter-intuitive vintage. Nevertheless, the quality of the fruit (blue and black) impresses and the finish is precise and measured. 92–93

Château Beau-Séjour Bécot 1er Grand Cru Classé
(76% M, 22% CF, 2% CS)
These are exciting times at Beau-Séjour Bécot, with a shift in direction and a definite pivot toward Cabernet Franc, the aspiration being for it to make up 25% over the next two years. The Cabernet Franc is divided between clonal and massal selections, some of the former from the Loire. I don’t feel, however, that this revelation is an auto-prompt to recall some of the finer examples from Bourgueil in the crunchy (croquant)herbal character, itself bolstered by the generous southern personality of the Merlot. Brambles and noble flowers complete an eminently pleasing tableau. The wine has been aged 55% in new barrel, the rest in a combination of amphorae, one-year-old barrels, and casks. There is a real and justifiable confidence on display at Beau-Séjour Bécot, amplified, to a certain extent, by the sight of the ambitious building works that erect a new chai. 94–95

Château Bélair Monange 1er Grand Cru Classé
(98% M, 2% CF)
A large estate, at 58 acres (23.5ha), its fiefdom spread over both the limestone plateau and the blue clay of the slopes, its aspiration, no doubt, to capture the virtues of both in this glorious vintage. In 2022 we are happy to report a mission accomplished; dense episcopal color and a very Moueix nose (wound-up potential, promises that will be kept), demonstrating that the magic is not restricted to the plateau of Pomerol. The texture is finely wrought, the mid-palate fruit dominated by sloes and myrtle, the tannins firm, artistic rather than workmanlike. A watch that has just been wound, ready to give us time, for as long as we care to return the favor. 93–94

Château Berliquet 1er Grand Cru Classé
(65% M, 35% CF)

The Chanel ownership is starting to show, and not merely on the aromatic. An impressive Berliquet, relatively understated, in the manner of a subtle and finely judged grand vin, yet with, in this instance, all the generosity of the vintage captured within the lexicon of its fruit profile, a clean mineral seam, the acidity as an undercurrent, running through and nourishing the ensemble. Reassuring grip on the finish and a pleasing aromatic flourish to take us back where we started… now contented. 93–94

Château Canon 1er Grand Cru Classé
(75% M, 25% CF)
Such a deep color, almost onyx, then almost stalky at first, just for an instant; there is so much waiting to get out! Plenty of air is needed to awaken the spirit. Awaken it does, magnificently, and its generosity is transformative, with very fine, chalky tannins, a refreshing strand of eucalypt acidity, and impressive length; all of the above serving as an A-list supporting cast to the main focus, which is, but of course, the fruit; Merlot generosity and rigor, fleshy but pure, and the cerebral grip of Cabernet Franc which will reverberate across the halls of fame. 95-96

Château Canon La Gaffelière 1er Grand Cru Classé
(50% M, 35% CF, 15% CS)
Owner Stephan von Neipperg jokes that Robert Parker was never a great admirer of Cabernet Franc, but that it appears to be the “cépage du moment” in Bordeaux, well-suited to the legacy of ongoing climate change. The 35% here makes its presence felt, with an herbal, pithy character, which complements the more demonstrative, plummy Merlot fruit with aplomb (no pun intended). Aromatics of gum cistus and soft licorice add interest and complexity; the palate is equally intriguing, deftly constructed, and eloquently supported by a softly powdery matrix of finely chiseled tannins. 94–95

Bordeaux 2022 Field notes: Epoustouflant (adj)—staggering, mind-blowing

Château Cheval Blanc
(53% M, 46% CF, 1% CS)
As many as 41 of the property’s 54 plots were called to arms in 2022; technical director Pierre-Olivier Clouet is clearly a fan of blending: “Blending is like a Sunday family lunch,” he says, quoting Emmanuel Reynaud. Before tasting the final cut, we taste the key components; the Merlot is imperious and plush, while the Cabernet Franc offers backbone and grip. The final blend is thus parsed before our eyes, the assemblageadding a striking aromatic uplift, a floral tribute, and, by way of alchemy, an illusion of sweetness. Mint and chocolate underscore the ripe plum-fest, scorched earth and a hint of tapenade lending gravitas. The tannins exude a quiet authority, and the finish is suitably uplifting. Job done, brilliantly. 98–99

Cheval Blanc
The 2022 from Château Cheval Blanc, is a “job done, brilliantly.” Photography by Jon Wyand.

Clos Fourtet 1er Grand Cru Classé
(90% M, 7% CS, 3% CF)
A classic Clos Fourtet blend, the nose likewise; pure pedigree. To achieve this level of elegance, the fermentation temperature was reduced to its lowest ever (a maximum of 82oC [26oC]) and the ongoing élevage restricts the new wood to 40% rather than its usual 60%. The result does not lack for power, however, hints of vanillin from the wood providing a foil to the ripeness of the fruit without overwhelming it. Firm acidity does not prevent an almost ethereal glide across the palate. 94–95

Closerie de Fourtet
(90% M, 10% CF)
Offered for the first time en primeur, the Closerie marks a significant restructuring at Clos Fourtet, and takes the position of a second wine. The smaller label, Château des Grands Murailles, has been swallowed up by this wine and, mostly, by Clos Fourtet itself, its 4.8 acres (1.96ha) of venerable vines deemed too small to be a standalone label; a shame, but there we are. This wine bears all the hallmarks of the younger sibling; soft and yet spicy at the same time, pleasing and not without complexity. Some 20% of new wood has been used, and it should settle down nicely after a bout of angular opening-night nerves. 91–92

Clos de l’Oratoire Grand Cru Classé
(80% M, 20% CF)
The Cabernet Franc, one of the heroes of 2022, makes its presence felt here, adding herbal weight and spicy dexterity to the ensemble. Powdery tannins and firm acidity underpin the fleshy Merlot fruit basket; the oak is finely managed and only as supportive as it needs to be in such a vintage of plenty. 91–92

Château La Clotte Grand Cru
(85% M, 15% CF)
From south-facing vines, their average age an impressive 57 years; a powerful statement of Merlot, early-picked yet bristling with ripe and forward fruit, with spice in the background and a carefully delineated structure that bodes well for the longer term. 92–93

Château Côte de Baleau Grand Cru Classé
(90% M, 10% CF)
This plot, contiguous yet made up of three distinct soil types (limestone and clay, with sandstone on either side), yields an attractive red-fruit aromatic, strawberry compote above all, then a fleshy mid-palate, the 14.5% worn lightly, and the finish touched by sapidity, which counters any intimation of excess. A friendly style, with younger vines to the fore. 90–91

Le Dôme Grand Cru
(80% CF, 20% M)
The concept of the garagiste wine has rather gone out of fashion, but some of the enfants terribles are slow to reform. Oak-barrel fermentation and 200% new oak for aging may have gone the way of all (voluptuous) flesh, but the spirit persists, albeit with stainless-steel vats and a mere 80%-barrel maturation. Time to remind ourselves that this is made from 80% of Cabernet Franc, and herein lies the fundamental difference with the rest of the range. “Fleshy Rubenesque power” does not really capture the depth and intensity here, the structural magnificence, and, in particular, the sheer quality of the fruit. The influence of consultant Thomas Duclos is more and more apparent here, and what was verging on a caricature is now very serious indeed… or will be in a decade’s time! 93–94

Bordeaux 2022 Field notes: Fear no more the heat o’ the sun

Château Figeac 1er Grand Cru Classé A
(35% M, 34% CF, 31% CS)
A definitive statement from the gravelly soils in the western sector of St-Emilion, and a worthy celebration of an overdue promotion to the highest rank. Each of the varieties contributes discernible character; the cassis and grip from the Cabernet Sauvignon, the spice and floral aromatic from the Cabernet Franc, and the creamy, velvety texture from the Merlot. The assemblage, of course, overrides it all, lending energy and tannic self-assurance, a vital dimension; a sappy complexity and a finely nuanced denouement. Figeac poise and Figeac discretion; just rewards for all concerned. 97–98

Château Fonbel Grand Cru
(85%M, 10% CS, 5% CARM)
Around 30% of this is aging in one-year-old barrels; one feels, however, that the powerful kick on the finish is courtesy of the rare (in these parts, at least) Carmenère; savory, yes, grassy, no; different, yes, disappointing, no. Well worth a look; the groundswell of Merlot plush provides a fascinating counterpoint to the darker elements here. Lean tannins, long of structure. 92–93

Château Grand Mayne
Grand Cru
(75% M, 25% CF)
Deep ruby, bright, and a demonstrative, creamy nose; compote, summer pudding, and orchard fruit; exceptionally attractive. The palate is dominated by ripe, red-berried fruit, far from overworked, and yet fleshy and plush. Sensuality to the fore; a reminder, should reminder be required, of the sunny disposition of the vintage. The ABV and pH also serve to remind us that nothing has been overworked, and that the sunny uplands are to be equally welcoming. 92–93

Château Haut-Simard Grand Cru
(70%CF, 30% M)
I am not sure whether Alain Vauthier agrees with me when I say that this tastes like a superripe Bourgueil; as someone who loves Bourgeuil, this I meant to be a compliment. Leafy, spicy, with hints of graphite and black tea, a sturdy yet not ungenerous sample. which lingers long in the memory. Sui generis. 92–93

L’If Grand Cru
(80% M, 20% CF)
The eponymous yew tree lies close to Troplong Mondot and makes for a better landmark than the water tower. The wine is aged in 50% new barriques and will probably stay there for a total of 14 to 16 months. The small berries have given us a concentrated, richly fruity wine, vibrant and energetic and with composed, powdery tannins and fine, balancing acidity. The clay-limestone soil has ensured that the acidity is resourceful and vibrant. The property covers 20 acres (8ha), half of which have been replanted and will gradually take their place in the blend. 92–93

Château Laforge Grand Cru
(92% M, 8% CF)
More gravel here, with crasse de fer beneath, neither of them intuitively inclined to alleviate water shortage. The result is toasty, with crunchy fruit and somewhat stentorian tannins, which will take some time to integrate into the ensemble. Lacking neither generosity nor textural complexity, this is a robust and assertive example. 90–91

Château Larcis Ducasse Grand Cru
(86% M, 14% CF)
The perfect combination of south-facing vines with shallow clay loam topsoil and then the solid limestone table. Together they have conspired to forge a wine of great aromatic purity; peppery spice, dark fruit; density and depth. Hints of eucalypt and juniper provide neat counterpoint for an unusually forward Larcis Ducasse—not that it lacks for potential. 92–93

Château Monbousquet Grand Cru
(70% M, 15% CF, 15% CS)
Sand and gravel are the key soil components of this large estate, the first to be acquired by Gérard Perse. It is the lightest (the least heavy, some may say) constituent, and has had a successful outing in 2022, despite the lack of limestone in the soil, elsewhere seen as fundamental to combat the hot, dry conditions. The aromatic recalls raspberry compote and fig, with a hint of juniper and tree bark. The 50% of new wood is well-integrated and the acidity lends freshness to the finish, where notes of graphite and dark chocolate come to the fore. 92

La Mondotte Grand Cru Classé
(80% M, 20% CF)
Dark, almost saturnine, hue: an intensity captured on the nose and palate alike; ripe black fruit, a touch mentholated, with a herbal eucalypt feel, yet behind that, robust tannins and a generous, almost bitter-chocolate serenade. Old-vine Cabernet Franc, composed and serene in this vintage, allied to less intensity of new oak (only 40% this time) mean that today’s Mondotte is a far tamer beast than the garagiste wine of old. Gentle power, in any event, and incredibly expressive, given that the yields, impressive for 2022, were 40hl/ha. 93–94

Bordeaux 2022 Field Notes: Carmes before the storm

Château Moulin St-Georges
Grand Cru
(80%M, 10% CF)
Sourced from 17 acres (7ha) of clay and limestone on the hillside just to the south of the village, the Moulin St-Georges is generous of disposition, creamy and open of style; this after an intriguing nose that recalls tobacco and irises. The precision of the acidity holds it together nicely; the weave pleases and the finish refreshes. A hit. 93–94

Château Pavie 1er Grand Cru Classé A
(52% M, 30% CF, 18% CS)
There is plenty to celebrate at Pavie, including the Perses’ 25th anniversary here (with a typically striking new black and gold bottle) and, in 2022, a reaffirmation of its status at the top of the classification. What is more, the land that was previously denied inclusion in the wine has now been assimilated, which means that the labels Bellevue Mondotte and Pavie Decesse have been sacrificed. Onward, Monsieur Perse. The 50/30/20 division of the varieties has only recently taken shape, but seems set to define the new style—still turbo-charged, for sure, but less of caricature; even, dare one say it, verging on the cerebral. The new oak is now 75% and the élevage is no longer 30 months; not even 24…. The nose betrays the Cabernets, with cassis, cigar box, and juniper to the fore, then behind that, dark chocolate and cherry, licorice and graphite. The tannins are strict, certainly firm enough to dictate a structure where any thoughts of creamy sucrosity and come-hither fruit are neither appropriate nor apposite. This is confirmed by an alcohol level of 14.47%—by no means excessive in this, the warmest of years. Pavie is still set to divide opinion, but maybe not in quite the manner of yesteryear. 94–95

Bordeaux 2021 Château Pavie St-Emilion
Château Pavie “is still set to divide opinion, but maybe not in quite the manner of yesteryear.” Photography by Serge Chapuis.

Arômes de Pavie Grand Cru
(50% M, 50% CF)
One would be unwise to describe this as a traditional second wine, all the more so as the average age of its vines is 53 years. What is more, the proportion of Cabernet Franc is the highest in this central part of St-Emilion, and the parcels are now specifically dedicated to this label. I find it intriguing; there is an attractive crushed raspberry, rosemary, and sous-bois aromatic, almost Médocain, but then a sweeter, almost creamy mid-palate, which reminds us that the malolactic fermentation has taken place in barrel, and that 50% of new oak is in play. Then a final twist, with an almost bitter finish, described as an “amertume noble” (a phrase I more readily associate with Champagne), cementing the influence of the Cabernet Franc in the blend. Its evolution will be fascinating. 91–92

Château Pavie Macquin 1er Grand Cru Classé
(80% M, 19% CF, 1% CS)
A tricolore of clay (red, blue, and white) over solid limestone. The iron elements lend length and salinity, while the lighter clays soften the tannins without compromising the limestone’s gift of natural acidity. No acidification here. The process is aided by the addition of herbal teas including horsetail. A confident, lifted style, lifted not by volatility or ambitious winemaking, but rather by the purity of the fruit and the deft weave of those silky tannins. The oak is reassuringly discreet; nothing impetuous here. Measured by charm. 93–94

Poesia Grand Cru
(70% M, 30% CF)
Farther east still from Barde-Haut (close to Valandraud, in fact) Peosia was bought by the Garcins in 2014. They promptly changed the name from the more prosaic Haut Villet. Despite similar vinification to Barde-Haut (70% of new oak this time, similar fairly robust extraction) the Poesia is more aromatic, with violets and crushed berries, and there is more lift and elegance on the palate. Hélène advises that whereas Barde-Haut is cosseted within an amphitheater, Peosia is a little more exposed, its proximity to a windmill perhaps providing a meteorological clue. In addition, the topsoil is shallower, and the limestone, accordingly, closer to the surface; the pH is lower as a result, the definition more focused and impressive. Structured… but in free verse, if such a thing is possible. 92–93

Quinault L’Enclos 63 M 20 CS 17 CF

The soils here are mainly gravel and sand, with no clay, so quite a challenge in such a hot and dry vintage—a challenge mastered with great skill. The élevage takes place only in larger containers (demi-muid and foudre), with not a barrique in sight. Red fruits aplenty and forward, yet with an impressive grip at the back, courtesy, no doubt, of the unusually high conspiracy of Cabernets (37% between them). 93–94

Château Simard Grand Cru
(65% M, 20% CS, 10% CF, 5% PV)
Tightly wound and complex, with prunes and dark chocolate, spice from the Petit Verdot and a leafy aromatic from the Cabernet Franc; these providing gentle but pleasing distraction from the essential quality of the fruit and tannins alike. 91–92

Bordeaux 2022 Field notes: St-Emilion—the view from Clos Fourtet

Château Tertre Roteboeuf Grand Cru
(80% M, 20% CF)
The south- and southeast-facing vineyard, a contiguous plot around the ancient farmhouse, is surrounded by woods and the small valleys (aka combes) that give St-Laurent des Combes its name. Cover crops are evidenced, and the vines trained low, respectful of the limestone terroir. Owner-winemaker François Mitjavile, an inveterate showman, is genuinely entranced by the phenomenon of 2022, which he describes in terms of “profonde et plénitude.” How can nature be so benevolent without pushing the grapes into excess, he wonders. How indeed. The long-practiced micro-oxygenation in tank prepares the must for its two years in new wood; less important than sometimes, he muses, given the quality of the raw materials in play. The wine is dark, intense, one’s first impression caressed by wood, but with unfailing elegance thereafter; fine-balanced acidity and tannins that appear to be “resolved” already. How can this be? It’s all about ripeness without excess, about intensity without the threat of desiccation and shut-down. Several of the “issues”—problems, even—with recent vintages, have been avoided, it seems, the resulting wine boasting depth and intensity as its birth right, but also an attractive fleshy (charme he says, which doesn’t quite translate, so let’s just say) richesse, which will ensure a captivating evolution. 95–96

Château Teyssier Grand Cru
(80% M, 20% CF)
Ever-reliable, and, according to owner Jonathan Maltus, the largest marque flying the colors of St-Emilion Grand Cru, this is ripe, winningly so; rounded, assuredly so; and seductive, inevitably so. Vanillin-coated, fleshy, and densely textured, it rejoices in a happy coincidence of the aspirations of vintage and winemaker alike. Blackberry jam and toasty oak, but not without a eucalypt freshness on the finish. 89–90

Château La Tour Figeac Grand Cru Classé
(70% M, 30% CF)
“The best wine we have ever made,” says owner Otto Rettenmaier, who started making wine here in 1994. His winemaker, Pierre Blois, explains that their de facto biodynamic practices (they are not certified), allied to further measures such as the use of 15% 400-liter barrels and the reduction in pigeage, have all helped to benefit from, rather than struggle with, the high summer temperatures. Give this one a minute or so in the glass, and the familiar herbal, eucalypt personality comes through, courtesy largely of the Cabernet Franc, some of which is 55 years old, then a thread of cassis and a final flourish of licorice and white pepper. All very impressive, the structure harmonious, the tannins powdery and refined. We taste the 2020, too, and the house style is immediately evident; the 2020 is excellent, but the 2022 has more midpalate authority and is more refined toward the back of the mouth. 93–94

Château Troplong Mondot 1er Grand Cru Classé
(85% M, 13% CS, 2% CF)
Aymeric de Gironde, CEO here since 2017, is sure that this, his sixth vintage, is his best. “This is the one I wanted to make when I first got here,” he says. The wine is currently aged for 14 months in 55% new barriques, 24% in one-year-old barrels, and 21% in foudres. Aymeric plans to increase the foudre component and gradually drop the older barrels. It wears its 15% ABV very well, better than of old, some may say; I was surprised to learn that two tanks included whole bunches, although this may well inform the sinewy finish, the hit of sapidity that holds the line and boosts the energy beyond the plush that was splashed all over its forebears. Otherwise, there is a symphony of blue and black fruit, a satiny sheen, delectable in itself, and a detailed tapestry of detail that will unfurl over the longer term. Most impressive. 96–97

Château Trotte Vieille 1er Grand Cru Classé
(50% CF, 45% M, 5% CS)
Far more austere and unforthcoming than its sibling; the red fruits have turned black, and the soft spice has taken on a more stentorian voice. The low to medium toasting of the oak (100% new) seems a little incongruous at the moment, lending a creamier note and hinting at overripeness, which is not, in fact, the case. This will assuredly calm down, and the upshot will be impressive indeed, such is the quality of the raw materials. The 5% of Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from a single plot of old vines just in front of the renovated château. It all looks very smart. 92–93

Dame de Trotte Vieille
(55% M, 45% CF)
The spoils are divided one third to the Dame and two thirds to the grand vin, the latter, as usual, from the parcels with older vines. The Dame is soft and approachable, with strawberry compote and hints of myrtle and loganberry; the tannins are soft, too, and the overall impression is of an immediately seductive wine but one that may not repay keeping after its third year. Delightful now. 89–90

Valandraud 1er Grand Cru Classé
(88% M, 6% CF, 6% CS)
Something of an enigma, this year; a deep color and intense mid-palate (the alcohol dial strikes 15.5%), and yet a relatively low PH of 3.55 and a charming, almost sappy finish. The limestone soil bestows the salinity and cleanses the fleshy fruit of its more indulgent inclinations. And yet the oak is potent in its influence and the sucrosité (to use Jean-Luc Thunevin’s term) informs the velvety texture. Tenacity and the authority on the finish will assuage any doubt over time, I’ll wager. 94–95

Valandraud Blanc
(45% SG, 40% SB, 15% SM)
Very small volumes, very high quality, the inclusion of relatively rare Sauvignon Gris adding an oily texture and more exotic notes of litchee and pineapple, all tempered by the waxy duvet of the Semillon and the lime and citrus flavors from the Sauvignon. Modest of color, yet immodest of strength (15% ABV), this again boasts the discipline of a finely etched, gently salty finish. 20% has been aged in amphora; 80% in new barrel. 93–94

Bordeaux 2022 Field notes: Château Cheval Blanc—odds-on favorite

Vieux Château Mazerat Grand Cru
(90% M, 10% CF)
Where we now have Norman Foster’s spherical Dome, once there was a dilapidated Château, for which the word “vieux” was, apparently, more than appropriate. Our eponymous souvenir is sourced from the terroir, where clay overrides hard limestone and where the Merlot predominates. The Cabernet Franc across the track just beneath Angélus is mainly reserved for Le Dôme itself. This is a very dark and intense wine, toasty, muscular, and uncompromising, Jonathan Maltus advising that the finish is “grippy” rather than dry. There isn’t a word in French which directly translates “grip,” apparently. This weighs in at 15.5% ABV—quite high in a vintage where levels are generally lower than anticipated, but still high. 89–90

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