Déjà-bu: Bordeaux 2020—the wines

Michael Schuster, Simon Field MW and Andrew Jefford, assess the Bordeaux 2020 vintage in bottle, with extensive notes on more than 100 of the region’s leading wines.

Déjà-bu: Bordeaux 2020—an introduction

ST-ESTÈPHE

Château Calon Ségur 3ème Cru (13.5% ABV) |95

SF | More tension, more subtlety, and much more class; the second wine is far behind the grand vin… That is a relief, since one cannot fail to be aware of the burgeoning reputation of this property. A deep midnight color and a wonderfully complex nose of dark fruit, spice, and a hint of forest floor. The palate is both lifted (read ethereal) and grounded (read complex and concentrated). The overall message is clearly enunciated and gratefully received. An impressive Calon Ségur. | 94

AJ | Saturated black-red, midnight dense. Ample, unbridled, raw fruit power here: a great roar of cool blackcurrant. Sweet, ripe, fresh, and tender: very alluring. Wonderful to see aromas like this uncompromised by oak, and we trust that with time will come complexity. Amazing fruit purity and drive here, as if the old Calon Ségur has shed its skin, and a new, more alert, more intense and more shocking wine has come slithering out to arrest our attention. It is rather single-note at present: all drive but little layering. However, fruit purity of this order will certainly produce layers in due course, and this is a most compelling wine. And for all the best reasons. Exciting promise for the future here. 2027–40. | 95

Le Marquis de Calon Ségur (14.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Deeply pigmented and aromatically expressive, the Marquis, we are told, weighs in with a whole degree more ABV than the grand vin. Unusual, but not unprecedented. A pleasing, straightforward Marquis, eponymous aristocracy somewhat jettisoned in the name of approachability and an inclination to endure. | 91

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. A very cool noseful: coal and anthracite beneath the chilled blackcurrants. Pure and sustained, and in its own way exciting. Oak rather evident at present. Ultra-concentrated (especially for a second wine) and dramatic, but I have to say it is terrific, too: driving purity and intensity and an astonishing fruit core. Gosh! It just has to be worth putting a case of this away for a while, just to see. Not so worried about the oak on the palate, because I hadn’t been expecting fruit intensity of this order. 2026–38. | 93

Château Capbern Cru Bourgeois
(14% ABV) | 88

SF | Dense onyx color and a persuasive aromatic of bonfires and autumn evenings. There is a hint of volatility on the palate, however, which distracts. A shame, because the inherent structure is sound and pleasingly typical, with pure, assertive acidity framing the tannic backdrop and no shortage of fruit at its core. | 90

AJ | Jet black or midnight black: opaque. Exotic, with some incense spices. Just a touch livid and bloodshot; a bit oaky, too. Perhaps it will be gentler and more settled after a year or two’s rest. The urgency of the vintage is apparent here. On the palate, much as the aromatics. I find this a little bit wild and indigestible at this stage, and over-elemental. Time may heal, but it is rather on edge at present. 2027–37. | 85

Château Cos d’Estournel 2ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 96

SF | Deep, saturated color, and a beguiling aromatic, herbs and dark fruit dancing a midnight pas de deux; very intriguing, very Cos! The palate is refined and broad; elegant and concentrated; the herbal nuances—if anything—accentuated, notes of thyme and licorice impeding gracefully. The acidity is etched beautifully across the palate, the tannins both adamantine and beautifully composed. A very impressive Cos. | 96

AJ | Dark, saturated black-red. Warm, lush, exotic, rich, and beguiling: such a contrast to the rigorous purity and fruit singularity of so many wines in 2020. I have to say, I enjoy it enormously. The fruit is still at the core of this wine (though it is multi-allusive fruit rather than a blackcurrant laser beam), and there is so much fretwork built around it that you could spend 20 happy minutes just sniffing. Unusual for the vintage, but terrifically successful, brave in the current Zeitgeist, and far more subtle and more successful than the lumpen crassness of the 2009. Aromatically, that is. I’m not quite so convinced on the palate, as I struggle just a little to find the fruit core here; it’s the opposite of Calon Ségur in that sense. But maybe I’m worrying unduly; there is still a firm fruit core, and all of the other brocading brings huge pleasure. The tannins are also very fine, and I welcome that in these tannin-shy times. A super wine; a great talking point and a reference for the vintage. 2027–42. | 95

Pagodes de Cos (13% ABV) | 91

SF | Deep vermilion. The nose is softer than anticipated, with wild strawberries and a touch of mocha to the fore. Nicely judged in terms of weight, though there is a hint of volatility at play that adds a certain “lift” at the moment but may well compromise prospects for the longer term. | 89

AJ | Dense, dark black-red The sweet exoticism of Cos is apparent here, and the fruit notes are very different from the two Calon wines; suddenly you get a glimpse of cherry and even raspberry and strawberry beyond the sculpted currants. Tobacco and incense, too: all manner of delights beyond the puritan fruit. There is more evident oak here, too, but it works well at tickling those fruits into charm (not guaranteed in St-Estèphe in 2020). Real aromatic breadth here; beguiling and engaging. All of the above is what you’ll find on the palate, but it is just a little sweet compared to the best of its peers and doesn’t perhaps have their shocking fruit core. Lovely wine for the medium term, though, and lots to talk about on every tasting occasion. 2026–36. | 92

Château de Pez Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel (13.5% ABV) | 87

SF | First bottle: subtle TCA. The second bottle is untainted but hard; austerity etched into its stony heart, and the ripe fruit, which is surely there somewhere, entirely subservient to the rigors of structure. Very tannic, in other words, and hard to love. “A typical St-Estèphe,” may be the rejoinder, but no: A typical St-Estèphe should, almost despite itself, hint at the prospect of sunny uplands and patience rewarded. I’m not sure that this is the case here. | 89

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. A touch of cinder here, as well as some herbaceous notes. A little less serenely ripe than the best of its peers. Ditto on the palate. It’s concentrated and well made, but the fruit is slightly rough and ready. 2026–31. | 85

Château Le Boscq (13.5% ABV) | 88

SF | Tenebristic, with a suitably dark and smoky nose; wet stones and undergrowth, with little by way of primary fruit in evidence. The palate reverberates classicism, its shape and construction loyal to both the appellation and the vintage, thereby ensuring the prospect of a reluctant generosity and of pleasure deferred. | 91

AJ | Deep, dense, opaque black-red. Reduced on the nose, though with ample swirling you find something in ripe and enticing (spicy) style. Plenty of oak. The “elemental” quality of St-Estèphe wines this year won’t be to everyone’s taste. This is vibrant and exuberant but a little bit stark. The wine has concentration and depth, but a more settled ripening cycle would have paid dividends here. The acids, in the end, are over-dominant, and a better aromatic profile would have lifted the wine. 2026–34. | 84

Château Le Crock Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel (13.5% ABV) | 90

SF | Dense purple, with plenty of ripe fruit evidenced. The Cuvelier signature is flamboyant and flowery as ever; only as one digs deeper does one discern the authenticity of provenance and the quality of the fruit: black tea, blackcurrant, and rigorous, stentorian tannins. A Janus-like wine, then, but does it please everyone? Or no one? On this impressive showing, I am happy to incline toward the more benevolent judgment. | 92

AJ | Dense, saturated black-red. The cool freshness of the season overall is clearly on display here, but sweetly accomplished and finished, and with some spice notes, too. I don’t think St-Estèphe had an easy time of it this year, but this wine is gathered and balanced, with a sense of warmth, as well as freshness. It’s sustained and long, curranty without bitterness and without the acids getting the upper hand. An excellent buy. 2026–35. | 88

Château Lafon-Rochet 4ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Dense, near-opaque. Nose of fig, dark chocolate, and ripe loganberry. An impressive sweep of tannin, mouth-coating and authoritative, but far from coarse-grained. Very St-Estèphe. Vital acidity working with, rather than against, the ripeness of fruit. Accomplished and long. | 93

AJ | Dense, dark, saturated black-red. Fresh, earthy, forceful, and alert: blackcurrants on the cusp of ripeness, with a squeeze of redcurrant on top; sweet and warm behind. Relatively smooth in terms of its structure and tannin, this wine has concentrated, searching fruits and vibrant acids in dark, sleek, St-Estèphe style, with a breath of coolness lending it briskness and energy. Fresh to the last. 2027–38. | 90

Château Montrose 2ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 96

SF | Deep color, with an impressive nose that marries dark fruit, spice, tobacco, and crushed pepper, then cloves and thyme. The palate is gifted with weight and a crescendo, supported by the tannins, which are both ripe and austere, a pleasing paradox that often flags a top quality St-Estèphe. Quod erat demonstrandum. Needs time, one hardly need say. | 94

AJ | Midnight black; opaque. This wine has a very similar aromatic profile to the Dame, yet the volume, as you’d expect, is turned up further: Plant essences, essentially, count for everything here. Even the fruit is subdued alongside them. It’s almost as if we’ve gone somewhere else altogether. This was so striking that I had to pour the wine into other heavily wined glasses, just to check that what I was smelling was true, but it is. It is a very complete aroma, very harmonious (astonishingly so for this youthful stage), magnificently layered for such a young wine. Amazing stuff. Calon, Cos, Montrose: all St-Estèphe, yet three completely different approaches to the vintage. On the palate, hugely complex, an aromatic essence, an apotheosis of freshness. The Zeitgeist incarnate. Wonderful, lively, pure, limitlessly athletic: a magnificent achievement. I have a few bones to pick with the Zeitgeist, since I love wealth, texture, and the resonance that comes with ample ripeness; I’m not sure that we are not throwing the baby out with the bathwater here. But what’s true is that 2020 gave the producers (after all that work) the chance to produce these kinds of Ariel or fairy clarets that are all weightlessness and energy, and this is a great, great example. 2029–43. | 97

La Dame de Montrose (13.5% ABV) | 93

SF | Deep in color, with a distinctive, almost nutty aromatic; black tea and herbs behind it. Plenty of weight and authority, with dark fruit to the fore, crushed pepper and soft spice furnishing the subtext. The aromatics waft across the palate and nourish the dark fruit, the quality of which is impressive. | 92

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Lifted and refined: an unexpected turn compared to its peers, since this aromatic profile is built neither on a bellow of pure fruit nor on the charm of sweetness. Compelling, unusual, and intriguing aromatics, which suggest beeswax and plant essences, as well as pristine curranty (but relatively shy) fruits. So different from its St-Estèphe peers: I’m intrigued. Dense, deep, textured, long, fresh yet intricate, this is compelling wine and startlingly good, too, for a second wine. It has all the usual “plant essence” character, which drives the aromatics. It’s not super-weighty; the tannins are very refined, but that’s our Zeitgeist. (Sigh!) However, it’s lovely wine and above all a wine of striking aromatic complexity and grace. 2026–39. | 94

Château Ormes de Pez Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel (13% ABV) | 89

SF | Deep saturated color; a classic nose of soot, blueberry, and sous-bois. Tight of structure and linear of inclination; focused and precise, with plenty of elegant fruit in support. Maybe lacking the perspective and scope of the greatest years. Classic St-Estèphe nonetheless. | 91

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Warm, fresh, lively, and enticing—and settled and secondary already. No single note dominates, but rather a gentle fruit mix, with some softly vegetal freshening. Lots of fruit presence here, in slightly forceful style; are the Merlots totally happy? Impressive concentration, nonetheless, and the leafy freshness is striking, as so often this vintage. 2026–36. | 87

Château Phélan Ségur (13.5% ABV) | 93

SF | Imperious in its inscrutable robe of fluorescence! A classic Phélan nose of smoke, fig, cassis, and cedar; seductive to those who favor the less obvious mechanic of seduction. The palate maintains the juxtaposition between the fruit and the spice: cayenne pepper, ripe sloes, bilberry, and a dash of clove. Very attractive, very pure, and very focused; a more than satisfactory swan song from the ancien régime at this sometimes underrated property. One must remember how close the vines are to Château Lafite. | 94

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Very refined fruits here, elegant and engaging. Others are wealthier and broader aromatically, but this is hard to beat for purity and finesse: tapered, sculpted blackcurrant fruits. Not quite as much aromatic freshness as Tronquoy alongside it, however. The aromatic profile is exactly what you get on the palate: unswerving, pure, and long, with vivacious fruits glowing and singing through the palate from start to finish. Very St-Estèphe; very 2020—lovely work. Super length, too; in a way, a reference wine for the vintage from this fine château. 2027–38. | 92

Château Tronquoy (14% ABV) | 92

SF | A hint of development on the rim. The nose disinclines such attributes and is resolutely inscrutable. Soft earth and the faintest hint of bergamot, if one had to say—which one does. The palate is broad and elegant; the extraction has been gentle, but there has been plenty to extract. Pleasing, therefore, but not overworked; the tannins especially impressive. Resolute and firm, yes, but still nuanced and responsive to the structural imperative. A subtle and pleasing Tronquoy, which is in itself very good to see. | 92

AJ | Saturated, dense black-red. This has the urgency of the vintage to it, but it is still a very complete aroma, too, with a density and solidity of fruit that some of its St-Estèphe peers struggle to attain. Spice and chocolate at the edge, enticingly. Admirable. Drama, purity, and intensity on the palate. This is a very high-focus reading of the vintage, and this wine has wonderful fruit purity and drive. Exciting from top to bottom, long and finally complex, with no element lording it over the rest (though the driving and insistent character of the vintage here is in evidence). 2026–38. | 91

PAUILLAC

Château d’Armailhac 5ème Cru (13% ABV) | 91

SF | Deep vermilion, with aromatics betraying an embarrassment of ripe fruit and a spicy subtext, largely courtesy of the generous élevage. The palate is broad and composed, and the fruit is neatly harnessed by fine-grained tannins and a filigree shard of acidity. The finish is finely tapered and aromatically reassuring. | 92

AJ | Very dark, saturated black-red. Earthy and warm: vivid fruits shot through with subtle oak amplification and dried-citrus poise. Many of the lovely aromatic elements of this vintage have been well captured here. On the palate, this wine is taut and tight. It has the intricacy described for the aromatic profile but, for a Pauillac, perhaps lacks wealth and friendliness, though the concentration is dramatic and its aromatic power admirable. But you need to relax with the glass, too. That drinkability may come with time, in which case of course the score will float up. 2027–40. | 90

Château Batailley 5ème Cru (14% ABV) | 91

SF | Deeply pigmented, with aromas dominated by spring flowers, red fruit, and oak, this is an impressive Batailley, certainly more modern than of old, but made in such a way that the inherent Pauillac personality (power and grace) has not been sacrificed. The tannins impress; they are finely grained but persuasive, enhancing and embellishing the ensemble. | 92

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Rather vanilla-oaky, but with ample charm in a New World style. And this is what you find on the palate. It’s rather aggressive and abrasive in terms of its character profile, and the fruit core lacks purity, drive, and finesse. It’s chunky and solid, though, and those tannins redeem (for me) some of the overt oak sweetness; I would enjoy sitting down with a bottle but feel that the terroir probably deserves better. There are some bitter notes on the finish. 2026–36. | 89

Château Clerc Milon 5ème Cru (13% ABV) | 93

SF | Denser and more expressive than the d’Armaillac, the Clerc Milon is dominated by small-berried fruit, damsons, and sloes in particular, its structure bolstered by finely judged tannins and balancing acidity. The innate complexity is impressive, as is the power on the finish; it will only gain in complexity as the ripe damson character—hitherto somewhat overwhelming—cedes to a variety of secondary flavors, some of which will add a savory dimension. | 93

AJ | Dense, dark, opaque black-red. Unsurprisingly, a very similar (and similarly multidimensioned) aromatic profile to the d’Armailhac, but with more chic, amplitude, and style here and an extra chocolate note. Very attractive. On the palate, it is clearly a broader and more affable wine. Given that palate width, all the admirable aromatic qualities now come into their own. Such is its drama and gathered force that you really need to wait some time here. A super high-definition, edge-riding Pauillac (not at all the laid-back and beefy style) but a very distinguished wine. 2028–44. | 93

Château Duhart-Milon Rothschild 4ème Cru (12.5% ABV) | 93+

MS | Inky purple. Both dense and discreet and very persistent to smell, subtle blackcurrant Cabernet and Merlot plum, fragrant and fine. Beautifully balanced, elegant, nicely concentrated mid-weight, restrained in very fine-textured tannin. Long, fresh to vital, vividly blackcurrant-cored and gravel-suffused in flavor; even, elegant, restrained Pauillac, full of gentle class, complex, complete, persistent to finish; a great expression of Duhart. So gracefully and harmoniously balanced, it will be accessible early but reward for decades. A stellar expression of the cru, a Duhart full of promise, also showing the great class, at best, of this lovely vintage. 2028–48+. | 93+

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 5ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 93

SF | Dense color, with an attractive nose, savory elements, and flowers from the kitchen garden. The palate imbues salinity and a hint of charcuterie behind the fruit, itself dominated by loganberry and myrtle. A quintessential GPL, a tale, therefore, of refinement and understatement—quite rare in a Pauillac! | 93

AJ | Dark, dense, black-red A vibrant and compelling aroma: fine-milled blackcurrant fruits with cologne spice. Pristine, clean, and articulate, with all of the vintage purity beautifully realized. Ditto on the palate: a driving fruit core, surging over the palate in a high tide of exuberant, grippy, seizing, and commanding Pauillac Cabernet. Very pure, very honest, very generous, very true to both vintage and place, though without much layering and intrigue. A great site sings out, for all that. 2028–42. | 93

Château Haut-Bages Libéral 5ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Dense of hue but, as always, with a pleasing, “earthy” aromatic, its organic backdrop ensuring that the excesses of the vintage, meteorologically speaking, have been overcome. Always somewhat sui generis in the Pauillac firmament, HBL performs well in 2020, with a long, resonant finish particularly impressive. | 93

AJ | Dark black-red. Soft, curranty, and fresh, but not much more than that, pleasant though it is. Ditto on the palate. A lovely glass of wine, in truth, and an excellent example of Pauillac in 2020. It has depth and drive; the tannins are exciting; it will last well. Lovely classicism and drinkability, in sum, and I’d always be happy to share a bottle. It doesn’t overcome some of the inner rawness of the vintage, and it doesn’t have the precision and finesse to unhook a high-90s score, but it will always please and satisfy. (And I appreciate the oak discretion, too.) 2026–36. | 90

Château Haut-Batailley 5ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 91

SF | Deeply pigmented, with an attractive nose that marries flowers and fruit. Spice beneath and a gentle pull from the neatly extracted tannins. A minor key in play here, with a lyrical character and a soft, gently compelling allure, almost defiant of the vintage. The finish is also quietly assertive. It is interesting to watch the resurrection or, if one prefers, the reinvention of this famous property. | 92

AJ | Dark, dense black-red; opaque at the core. Vigorously curranty aromas, with a sweet sheen and a sense of purpose and forthrightness (inner energy). Concentrated, driving, and bright on the palate. The fruit isn’t quite as incandescent as in St-Julien this year, but this is still well made and a very sound glass of Pauillac, with all that that implies: structure, weight, and heft behind the fruit. There are, though, some bitter, dry notes on the finish that hold me back from a higher score. 2026–35. | 90

Lacoste-Borie (13.5% ABV) | 92

SF | An attractive red-fruit attack, pure and finely etched. Graceful and composed, the tannins chalky of disposition, but both finely grained and imposing in terms of the structure. A lifted character, typical of this wine, is evidenced and lends an approachability and an unmentioned desire to partake of a few more glasses, allowing the grand vin to mature quietly in the cellar. | 92

AJ | Dark black-red, though not quite opaque. Warm and fresh, with lively fruits… but not the focus and perfume of the best St-Juliens this year. For all that, you get a terrific noseful here. All the poised ripeness of the vintage is palpable, so just enjoy, and let’s not worry too much about the focus. Soft and open on the palate, with gentle, amiable fruit throwing its arm around you from the first sip: What’s not to like? Truly excellent basic fruit quality here, fruit in which you can read all of the meaty, muscular excellence of its commune. Revel in this. 2026–37. | 91

Château Lafite Rothschild 1er Cru (12.5% ABV) | 98

MS | Inky purple. Dense, close-knit, complex, very subtly blackcurrant and mineral; classy, glass-filling, compelling just on the nose. A rich, concentrated wine: vital, very fine but also delicately firm in tannin; a typically refined, restrained, complete, and harmonious balance, all the more remarkable for being only 12.5% in alcohol. A wonderfully vivid flavor, endlessly vital, packed with matter but so subtly expressed, a prolonged murmur of gentle energy across and coating the palate. Classic, fine, effortlessly replete Lafite, with magnificent, subtle, persistent fragrance to finish. Glorious wine. “Juicy” is too simple, of course, but a wonderful juiciness underlies all the subtle structure and scope here. So beautifully textured that it will likely be accessible relatively early, but of course with decades of wonderment for those fortunate enough to engage with it. 2035–60+. | 98

Château Lynch-Bages 5ème Cru (13% ABV) | 94

SF | Near opaque at the core, still youthful at the rim. Classic Pauillac, if one’s definition of Pauillac classicism rotates around musculature, power, and grip of tannins. All present and correct here, as they should be in a warm year, albeit enhanced by the sheer power of the fruit and the mid-palate intensity, which is, for all its weight, still poised and balanced. Assertive and authoritative. | 93

AJ | Dark, saturated black-red; dense and opaque. Lively fresh and zesty. Warm, exuberant fruits captured in a “smiling aroma” always hard to match in the commune, and this vintage is no exception. Super comeliness and friendliness here. This is very true to the vintage, in that the acidity is prominent and the tannins are brisk—but in between comes such a flood of lush, engaging fruit that you tend to forget all about those more linear elements and just concentrate on the overall energy, exuberance, and vivacity. An almost electric Lynch-Bages, but as lovable as ever. 2028–40. | 94

Echo Lynch Bages (13% ABV) | 90

SF | Forward, deeply pigmented, and assertive, its robust Pauillac tannins inviting gastronomic endeavor, its fruit character inspiring little other than gratitude and a positive impression of vintage and property alike. | 90

AJ | Dark, saturated black-red. Enticing, clean-hewn, and muscular Pauillac fruits: very attractive, firm, fresh, scrutable, and accessible. Fresh, jolly, and lively on the palate, too. There isn’t a huge amount of taut-sinewed concentration here, but drinkability is important, too, and this has it in spades. Assertive acidity to finish. 2027–38. | 90

Château Lynch-Moussas 5ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 91

SF | A distinctive, lifted, floral aromatic and a palate profile that marries a wealth of red fruit with firm, linear acidity and a chalky, tannic backdrop. Always a less muscular Pauillac, Lynch-Moussas excels in this warm, drought-ridden vintage, its flavors both complex and agreeably accessible. | 91

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Soft-contoured but curranty. However, the qualities of this vintage don’t really emerge in the less ambitious wines. Without the precision focus in vines and cellar, the vintage comes across as cool, fresh, and classically charming, but not much more. Nothing wrong with that at the right price, of course. On the palate, I feel I might have been unfair; this does have inner energy and drama, and it reflects the vintage in that. (And all Bordeaux scoring is always unfair for all wines save the greatest, of course.) Chunky, serious, and muscular, if unpolished. 2025–35. | 91

Château Pibran (14% ABV) | 90

SF | Muscular and assertive, not lacking for gastronomic potential. A forthright and powerful wine, showing off Pierre’s skill as a winemaker at many different levels. | 90

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Fresh, appetizing, sweet-hewn, and exuberant, typical of the central part of Pauillac. Ample, classical warmth here, even in this “fresh” and zesty vintage. Accessible and affable, open-pored and meaty: a thoroughbred Pauillac that you don’t have to wait an age for. Lively, pure, and vivid in this vintage. Well done to AXA for not swirling it into the Pichon Baron mix. 2027–37. | 90

Château Pichon Baron 2ème Cru (14% ABV) | 95

SF | Saturnine in color and unmistakably complex of disposition, this is a fine, balanced Baron. The tannins, as expected, are robust and impressive, stentorian even, but very fine-grained and refined. The fruit character shares this delineation and is matched by the poised acidity. There is an elegant lift here, seldom encountered at the Baron’s court, a result of focus on only the oldest vines, which are located just outside the château. | 95

AJ | Dense, opaque, saturated black-red. Wonderful aromas: fresh, fine, lifted, and articulate (the inspiration of the vintage), but with much else besides, in terms of citrus, fermentative and countryside allusions that are already apparent without waiting for the half-decade that other wines require to grow to similar articulacy. Great aromatic breadth and wealth here. Dense, taut, and searching on the palate, with almost painful concentration; surely one of the Médoc’s most concentrated wines in this vintage. (As such, it is a wager against time: When does drinkability take over the relay from concentration?) This rather edgy vintage adds to the sense of drama. Definitely a long-haul pick, so taut and tight is the palate; for the time being, it is the aromas that bring and give most. But a very impressive, almost daunting example of what 2020 has brought. 2028–45. | 96

Les Griffons de Pichon Baron (14% ABV) | 91

SF | Deeply pigmented, with a very narrow rim. Aromatically the wine is dominated by dark primary fruit, with emphasis on loganberries, plums, and cassis; behind that, spice and forest floor. The palate flatters to deceive; its apparent monochrome texture is underscored by finely etched tannins, a symphonic resonance of fruit and finely judged and balancing acidity. The finish is rounded and does not overwhelm, despite the heat of the vintage. | 91

AJ | Dense, opaque black-red. Unusually complete for a Griffons: all the pure fruit and inner freshness of 2020, but with an extra halo of sweet, honeyed warmth, soft spice, and cured-leaf tenderness. Very fine aromatics here. Taut, tight, fresh, driving, and vivacious. Like many wines this year, this will never be a lazy, sensual odalisque—it has just too much tension for that. But its purity, concentration, and detail will always command interest and attention, and it has great inner drama. 2027–40. | 91

Les Tourelles de Longueville (14% ABV) | 90

SF | Big-boned and assertive, its fruit almost too ripe, its tannins recalling old-school Pauillac, albeit with a little more refinement as a result of a more mannered extraction regime. Nonetheless, this is made for food, above all, and impresses with its tannic integrity and weight of fruit, which never strays beyond essential ripeness. | 89

AJ | Dense, saturated, and opaque black-red. Gruff, earthy, and sturdy, yet warm and sweet, too, with plush plum driving the fruit appeal. Just a touch of camphor for Médocain austerity; it may be Merlot, but we’re not on the Right Bank, after all. Soft, smooth, and open, yet that “open” is soon qualified by the seizing fangs of Médocain terroir. The genes of the place exert their force as the wine sits in the mouth. This is a terrific vintage for this single-parcel wine, and anyone who is following it should jump on board. 2027–40. | 91

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2ème Cru (14% ABV) | 98

SF | Densely pigmented, a deep ruby, near opaque at the core. A classic Comtesse nose, red fruit, soft spice, gravel, and sandalwood to the fore. The initial impression graduates to the palate, which rejoices in generous but not overbearing tannins, finely grained and quietly assertive, and a youthful structural integrity that bodes well for a long, fascinating development. As the Countess gets closer to the natural backdrop, her wines become ever more fascinating; the 2020 is a great success. | 97

AJ | Saturated midnight black; opaque. Sweet, fresh, warm, and enchanting, this is always the wine that glides toward you if you happen to dream about the Médoc at night. Never are blackcurrants more tenderly fragrant than here, but don’t forget the pepper and spice from the Petit Verdot. A wonderful elixir of liqueur-like aroma, and it seems to suit the vintage right down to the ground: resonant, articulate, packed with poised ripeness. Just a gorgeous perfume, and one of the finest aromas of the year. You want to sniff for half an hour. It is barely less wondrous on the palate. I found it hard to believe, after the Réserve, that the grand vin could be any more aromatic—but sure enough, it is: a kind of depth-charge of aroma, filling your palate-sky with spices, with dried citrus peels, with creamy lavender, and with blackcurrant liqueur. It’s not all aroma; there is a cascade of fruit, too, and svelte tannins. The acidity helps give life to all the aromatics, and it underscores the freshness of the vintage. Truly a dazzling performance here. A wine to still conversation whenever it is served. 2026–52. | 98

Pichon Comtesse Réserve (14% ABV) | 94

SF | A superb second wine; deeply pigmented, with an engaging aromatic that combines fruit and floral elements with effortless aplomb. Freshness and balance take hold of the palate, which glories in the ripe character of the fruit but also teams it with a perfectly judged structure. Approachable in relative youth, inevitably with great joy. | 93

AJ | Dark, saturated black-red; opaque. Sweet, svelte, insinuating—all the ample charm of these vineyards is already in evidence here. Wonderful citrus-peel and sweet-currant scents come gliding out of the glass. Splendid concentration and poise in terms of flavor, but honestly it is the cannonade of aroma on the palate that takes your breath away. And this is only the Reserve. Wow! Wonderful aromatic power unleashed here, backed by pristine fruits and a silkscreen of tannin. What doesn’t it have? The glycerous fullness of an ultra-ripe vintage, I guess, but this is so svelte, deft, pristine, and disarming, and so aromatically prodigious that I doubt anyone will notice. Chapeau! 2026–38. | 94

ST-JULIEN

Château Branaire-Ducru 4ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 93

SF | Dense of color and texture and yet with a pleasing, spicy lift—the quintessence of St-Julien, therefore. Hints of damask rose and thyme; behind it, licorice and incense. A very impressive effort from an estate that continues its ascent. Bravo! | 94

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Alluring blackcurrant charm here, with a tea-leaf finesse. It’s neither super-high-focus nor layered yet, but the serenity and charm suggest fine aging potential ahead. There’s a brilliant 2020 St-Julien fruit cascade on the palate, lent its energy by athletic and engaging acids and supported by a quieter spectrum of tannins. Vivacious and head-turning. 2026–38. | 92

Château Gloria (13.5% ABV) | 91

SF | Dense color, almost tar-like, then an aromatic that is marked by compote and hints of vanillin. A little “confected,” maybe… The palate betrays similar inferences; a very pleasant if “made” wine, with a generosity of fruit and nicely balanced composure on the finish. | 91

AJ | Dark, dense black-red; opaque at the core. Fresh, lively, sweet, and engaging: all of the zesty lift of St-Julien in this vintage. Ample, bright charm in soft-focus style. Deep and thrusting, with driving fruits that flirt with austerity. Arresting and ultra-classical. 2026–36. | 90

Château Gruaud-Larose 2ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 93

SF | Midnight black, holding firm at the rim. The nose is dominated by woodsmoke, with ripe plums and sloes in support, then behind that, crushed pepper and a hint of graphite. The palate is elegant of construction, a distinctive tobacco-box note on the finish betraying provenance and structural quality. A very serious wine, untroubled by the ripeness of the year, unperturbed by its drought issues. Ripeness is all here, and the quality is outstanding. Glycerol and acidity are perfectly enjoined, the ripe fruit subservient to the greater, grander scheme of things. | 96

AJ | Dark, dense black-red; opaque at the core. Ample pencilly refinement here, layered over the top of bright blackcurrant fruit. We aren’t far over the ripeness cusp, if at all, but the harvest moment has been well judged, and this wine sings. 2026–37. | 90

Sarget de Gruaud Larose (13.5% ABV) | 90

SF | Dense pigmentation and a serious nose, dominated by forest floor, incense, and spices; thyme and rosemary come to mind. The subliminal quality of the fruit never in doubt, but one can only marvel at its quality in this famous second wine, which today effortlessly outperforms its putative ranking. The tannins are seamless in their elegance, the acidity supple and supportive but never intrusive. Impressive indeed! | 93

AJ | Dark black-red. Gently curranty, but without the focus and gathered purity of the best. A touch vegetal. The palate reflects the nose, and there are certainly better second wines this year, though the drama of 2020’s St-Julien fruit makes it worth a look for all that. 2026–33. | 86

Château Lagrange 3ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 92

SF | The essence of Lagrange—that is to say, an elegant, floral wine, with bags of fruit and a subtle tannic foundation, balancing acidity and a seductive ripe character, which is neither over- nor underplayed. A large property, a little set back, that has benefited from investment (Suntory) and impressive curation. The 2020 is already approachable and does not lack for gastronomic potential. | 92

AJ | Dark black-red; almost opaque at the core. Warm, sweet, fresh, honeyed and pristine, there is an unusual tenderness and focus to the fruit qualities in St Julien this year, which is very clear aromatically; a fine example here. Soft, fluid, and elegant St-Julien, with a lyrical focus on the fruit qualities: pure, long, unalloyed, and vivacious. Supple and drinkable, yet don’t be misled: The gathered concentration of the fruit is very fine, and this will last well. As so often, Lagrange seems to summarize both commune and vintage with grace and aplomb. 2026–38. | 91

Château Langoa Barton 3ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Graceful and elegant, with an ethereal lift that appears to defy the rigors of such a warm year. Spring flowers and red fruit, refined acidity and finely grained tannins, beautifully integrated. Perennially graceful above and beyond its due, the Langoa in 2020 once again demonstrates its class, without, for a moment, undermining the more generous elements of this somewhat challenging year. | 93

AJ | Dense, dark black-red. Earthy, warm, rough-hewn, with less fruit focus and finesse than many of its St-Julien peers, though attractive in a kitchen-hearth kind of way. This is exactly what you find on the palate, too. Much to enjoy in rough-hewn style. The austerity and acid bite of the finish make it hard to give this wine a top score at this stage, but there are excellent raw materials and fruit density (both acids and tannins are impressive and engaged with the fruit), so I’m hopeful that a decade of aging may ease the tension somewhat. 2026–38. | 91

Château Léoville Barton 2ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 94

SF | Dense obsidian. A nose of smoke and briary; peat after a bonfire and the distant call of the rose garden. Pure red fruit underwrites the ensemble and marks out the palate, enhancing the effect of its acidity and bringing the finely etched tannins into sharp focus. A preternaturally attractive Léoville, careless in its elegance, it seems, of the warmer inclinations of the vintage. | 94

AJ | Saturated, dense black-red; opaque at the core. Sweet, warm, burdened and exciting to smell, not only with considerable fruit force but also with some secondary complexities stealing into the wine (citrus peel, thyme). Appetizing and ultra-classical on the nose. Ample and singing on the palate, this is another fine site that shares in St-Julien’s success this year. Lovely fruit purity and energy dominate the palate, and there are softer, finer tannins than at Langoa to lend support. This covers the palate beautifully, and the multi-decade tradition of ultra-drinkability from Léoville Barton seems certain to be a feature of 2020. Truly moreish already, and the future just has to intensify that. 2027–40. | 93

Château Léoville Poyferré 2ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 95

SF | Deeply pigmented, with a classic nose of cigar box, red fruit, and soft spice. Very impressive finely etched tannins, tight-grained yet far from intrusive, and a gentle balancing acidity. Sara has excelled here, “taming” the apparent excesses of the vintage, but without artifice or trickery; the result is a really impressive St-Julien, one of the few that captures the essence of the appellation in a year like this. | 94

AJ | Saturated midnight black; opaque core. Has much of the sweet aromatic precision typical of St-Julien in this vintage, but adds an aromatic skirt of wealth that few others have: pollen, honey, unlit tobacco leaf, humus, petrichor, freesia. Incense, too, with time. Compelling aromas here. Both wealth and breadth on the palate, and the admirable ripeness makes this pristine, high-focus wine much easier to drink and approach than its more austere peers. Super length, too. Another example of just how good St-Julien can be in this vintage, without the slenderness that can swerve through Pessac-Léognan and St-Estèphe. I can’t see how this wine won’t bring enormous pleasure for many years—balance this good will hold and hold. 2026–45. | 96

Château Moulin Riche (13% ABV) | 91

SF | A hint of development (garnet) on the rim. A traditional nose of tobacco box, summer flowers, and red fruit; forward and approachable. Playful tannins and subtle supporting acidity; the aromatics shimmy across the palate. The finish has a pleasing, almost poetic lift. | 91

AJ | Dark black-red. Warm and enticing, with ample curranty purity. The blackcurrant notes are sweet yet fresh: spot-on. Built around a core of athletic acidity, yet (as on the nose) it is the aromatic precision and zest that you notice at this stage. Energetic and driving wine of chic and classicism for the medium term. 2025–37. | 91

Château St-Pierre 4ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Often undervalued, St-Pierre tends, as here, to offer classic St-Julien cigar-box elegance and plenty of generous fruit. Add to that an impressive tannic backdrop, and one can see why this property merits a little more attention, The 2020 is a worthy exemplar. | 92

AJ | Dark black-red; opaque core. A little less lively and allusive than some of its St-Julien peers, but with more of an aromatic web once one peers beneath the fruit surface; almost honeyed, indeed, with a Virginia-tobacco charm. Relatively rich and well constituted when set alongside its St-Julien peers, and one of the wines that gets beyond the purity of fruit into a hinterland of allusion already. Discreet textural wealth adds extra dimensions, and the concentration is impressive: a super St-Pierre, and clearly built for the long haul. Perfect ripeness and poise here. 2026–40. | 92

Château Talbot 4ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Deep episcopal color and an uncompromising aromatic, which marries ripe raspberry compote, black tea, and woodsmoke. The palate is long, with finely etched tannins and prominent acidity billowing across the fruit, tempering its ripeness with the distinctive calling card of this large estate; that is to say, understated elegance with a powerful foundation, gravelly and refined. Very Talbot, above all, and impeccable of pedigree. | 93

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. St-Julien is a favored commune this year, and most of the aromatic profiles are very pure-fruited; this, by contrast, is just a little sweet and warm, without the pristine fruit drive of the best. Outstanding concentration on the palate, though the fruit qualities are linear and rigorous, firmly boxed in by the acidity, above all, and by brisk tannins beneath. The warmth and ease that the aromas suggested don’t show up on the very firm palate. The overall effect is a little military and austere, but it’s impressive and may appeal to classicists. 2026–37. | 91

MARGAUX

Château Angludet (13.5% ABV) | 88

SF | A hint of garnet at the rim and a whiff of volatility. The quality of the fruit is never in doubt, but it would be valuable to reign in on such things, at the very least in the name of commercial approbation. | 88

Château Boyd-Cantenac 3ème Cru (13% ABV) | 89

SF | Richly colored, with a forward and approachable aromatic dominated by crushed raspberry, spice, and hints of vanillin. An accessible, crowd-pleasing second wine that will work with food nicely and has the potential to develop over the next 12 months or so. | 89

Château Brane-Cantenac 2ème Cru (14% ABV) | 94+

MS | Very deep purple. Dense and refined, subtly gravelly, freshly blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon, noticeably persistent to smell. Full, nicely concentrated, fresh to vital in acidity, finely firm in tannin. A lovely vibrancy of blackcurrant fruit to taste, juicy and beautifully defined at once, prolonged, elegant, full of gently gravel-infused savor. Very Margaux in its finesse, very 2020 in its vitality, a wine of considerable subtlety, lovely length of flavor, sapid, mouthwatering, and with really fine fruit and aroma length. Another particularly fine Brane-Cantenac. Ideally, leave a decade. 2035–50+. | 94+

Château Cantenac Brown 3ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 93

SF | Near ebony at the core, with the rim still confidently deep in its purple. The aromatic is subtle, dark fruit and spice juxtaposed, and hints of licorice and even fennel are also evidenced. The palate is delightful, more balletic than one may have inferred thus far, splendidly balanced with poise and harmony, despite the generosity of the fruit. Quite a feat. The extraction and élevage have been minutely orchestrated to afford full sway to aromatic integrity. Most impressive. | 93

Château Durfort-Vivens 2ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 93

SF | At Durfort, Gonzague Lurton maintains his biodynamic credentials, without in any way jeopardizing either the aromatic or the structural integrity of the wine. The result is profound in as many senses as one may wish to employ—from the aromatic integrity, through to the tannic concentration and the fresh, balancing acidity. Harmony resides everywhere, and there is great depth and undeniable potential for evolution. A great success! | 93

Château Ferrière 3ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 89

SF | Deep purple with a dense core, then a classic Ferrière nose dominated by punnets of fresh raspberry, black berry, and a sprig of mint. Engaging and captivating. The palate is a little troubled by reduction (not evidenced on the nose), and I suspect that this may take time to clear, so I am a little anxious about the commercial implications. All the more so because I am highly respectful of the modus operandi employed by Clare and Gonzague in their vineyards. What to do? | 89

Château Giscours 3ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 94

SF | Dense color; Stygian, even, at the rim. An impressive nose of summer fruit, forest floor, and soft spice. A gentle seduction technique, underlined on the palate, which is both delicate and nuanced, its silky texture allowing the red fruits to shine and permitting the tannins to demonstrate their inherent quality, courtesy of the careful upbringing. Edgy and rich, resourceful and long, all in all a most impressive Giscours. | 94

La Sirène de Giscours (13% ABV) | 90

SF | Herbal notes dominate, with fine and chalky tannins and impressive grip in the mid-palate; dark fruit is neatly regimented within the assemblage, and the structure is poised if delicate; an impressive, slightly restrained second wine. | 90

Château La Gurgue (13% ABV) | 89

SF | Evolved at the rim, with a “funky,” earthy aromatic to the fore. The fruit is cut from the same cloth and will appeal to those who value this style; for those in search of traditional Margaux, they should keep looking. Entirely laudable. | 89

Château d’Issan 3ème Cru (13% ABV) | 89

SF | Initial impressions of an overextracted style are partially subdued by a little time in the glass, but the overall impression lacks luster and fails to impress, given the location and potential of the property. I suspect that the corporate intervention in the interim will recalibrate, hopefully without sacrificing the essence of this potentially impressive terroir… | 89

Château Kirwan 3ème Cru (14% ABV) | 89

SF | A slight fade in color and the most modest inference of oxidation; maybe the bottle, or maybe a style that needs or needed tightening up in a warm vintage. There is no lack of bright warming fruit on display; what one lacks, maybe, is the demonstration of how that can be tamed and “transformed” in a warm year. There is no shortage of potential here. | 89

Château Lascombes 2ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 91

SF | Deeply saturated partially, it appears, by oak—
if the whiff of vanillin and toast is anything to go by. Lascombes in its “interim” period maybe. Such a large estate is important in Bordeaux and in Margaux in particular. The palate betrays the oaky inference, thereby slightly undermining the quality of the fruit, self-evidently present and awaiting more inspired tutelage to demonstrate full worth, as it has done in 2022, for example. | 91

Château Malescot St-Exupéry 3ème Cru (14% ABV) | 91

SF | Rich of hue and manifestly oaky, as always, the question in 2020 centers on whether or not this treatment is de trop? The palate gives a neat portrait in defense of the style, its relative modesty of oak influence and its harmonious structure both vindicating an approach that, at first blush, appeared to risk becoming overwhelmed by the power of the vintage. | 91

Château Palmer 3ème Cru (14% ABV) | 97

SF | A little more reticent than the outstanding Alter Ego, but more intense, complex, and concentrated. The weight of dark fruit is truly spellbinding, the harmony and balance achieved by this very specific biodynamic approach, often hard to discern when tasted en primeur, now revelatory and inspiring. The combination of freshness and power on the finish is, in itself, incredible, an adjective that can be applied to the wine overall, and then some. Well done. | 97

AJ | Dense, saturated black-red; opaque to the core. Fragrant, long, fine, enchanting: very close to the Palmer of one’s dreams. A landscape of aroma here, subtle and nuanced: sweet notes, as well as savory. Fruit and dried citrus take the lead, but there is grass, lavender, blackcurrant, sloe, violet—glorious aromas; a virtuoso performance. The palate is electrically lively and fresh, yet as saturated with aroma as glass scrutiny suggested it would be. At this stage, there is almost more mid-palate flesh and weight in the Alter Ego than the grand vin, but that’s a function of the grand vin’s intensity and drive; the relaxation of sinew and subsiding into softness and flesh will come later. Balance and tannic presence are impeccable. Bright, fresh, pristine; everything is here for the long haul. Magnificent, complete, riveting wine. 2028–50. | 97

Alter Ego (13.5% ABV) | 94

SF | Deep purple, with only a modest rim. The nose betrays the organic approach, but in the best possible way; earthy, refined, elegant, and resourceful. The dark fruit slides across the palate with velvetine ease; the tannins powerful yet quietly supportive, the shape and weave of the wine delightfully contradictory in terms of the implications of such a warm, monochrome vintage. This is complex in virtually every sense, and outstanding for a “second wine.” | 94

AJ | Dense, saturated black-red; opaque at the core. A sweeter aromatic profile than I expected here: pristine, fine, fresh, complex, allusive, and promising. As with the Réserve of Pichon-Lalande, it’s hard to believe we are just smelling the “second wine”—this would outclass the grand vin ten years ago. Wonderfully alluring and lifted: truly head-turning and commanding aromas. Poised, fresh, lively, and balanced, both aromatically and on the palate, which is creamy and full. Perhaps it is giving a bit too much already, but this is a wonderful second wine and, in its own right, one of the stars of the vintage. 2026–40. | 94

Château Rauzan-Ségla 2ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 95

SF | Deeply pigmented and with a classic Margaux aromatic that combines fruit and spice and hints of wet soil. Very Bordeaux, in other words; very accomplished; restraint and indulgence reflecting terroir, attitude, and the vagaries of a vintage, its tannic subtext ensuring longevity and the potential to mature in an interesting and maybe unpredictable manner. | 93

AJ | Dense, dark black-red. Fresh, svelte, sweet, lively, and brimming with charm; this vintage suits the Rauzan-Ségla profile right down to its haute-couture socks. All that scented finesse (cologne, vetiver, Sicilian lemons, chypre) is in there, very subtly; this was a great vintage for aromatic engagement. Impressively concentrated, taut, and refined on the palate; very fine grip and depth. Searching and long, with dramatic gathered force. Surely one of the finest Rauzan-Séglas to date, this is a commanding wine that brings vivid, flavor-saturated acidity together with an unusual density, dimension, and texture. Hugely impressive. 2027–38. | 96

MÉDOC AND HAUT-MÉDOC

Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc (13.5% ABV) | 91

SF | Generously saturated, jet black at the core. Cassis and sloe, bonfires and a hint of saddle leather. The palate is equally expressive, broad and generous, but with firm buttressing tannins and a deft weave of acidity in support. Compact and far from aggressive on the finish. | 90

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Unquestionably the most aromatically refined of our Haut-Médoc flight, this wine has pure, sculpted fruits in a graceful and seductive style. Its freshness is all in the fruit quality itself; nothing to evoke grass here. 2025–37. | 88

Château Chasse-Spleen Moulis-en-Médoc (13.5% ABV) | 91

SF | Dense saturated color at the core, with a slightly watery rim. Nose of smoke, forest floor, and a distant recollection of spring flowers, no longer in bloom. The palate is structurally sound; the fruit character beguiling and allusive; red fruit to the fore, with cherries and plum at the front of the mind. The tannins then take over somewhat and the wine shuts down; this is perfectly to be expected at this stage and signals impressive potential to evolve, the aromatic harmony thus far unchallenged. | 91

AJ | Dark, dense black-red; opaque. Zesty sweet currants, with plenty of energy and lift. The forest edge isn’t far away but brings a freshening note. That’s the style on the palate, too: a darting and mouth-filling Chasse-Spleen, bursting with juicy fruits. Médoc Cabernet all the way; that combination of blackcurrant, meat, and gravel-quarry stoniness is ultra-typical. Nothing to excess, and the energy and panache are admirable. 2025–36. | 90

Château La Lagune 3ème Cru Haut-Médoc (14% ABV) | 91

SF | Sharing the same nocturnal coloring of its junior sibling, Lagune is more harmonious in virtually every respect. From the richly fruity nose (compote and hints of vanillin), through to the suave, fleshy mid-palate, this is the modern face of Haut-Médoc, an accomplished assemblage of aspiration and impressive raw materials, the blend carefully orchestrated in order to invite pleasure without sacrificing the typicity of a region, sometimes associated, with both praise and blame, with the mechanics of austerity. | 91

AJ | Opaque black-red in color; broodingly deep. Like its little sister, this has a broad sweep of fruits on the aroma, in boisterous, spicy style: generous and exuberant. Lively and fresh, with ample, juicy, licorice-backed currant and early plum. Excellent supporting tannins, and the ripeness is untroubled here. A fine buy, with more bottom to it than Chasse-Spleen. 2026–39. | 91

Château Poujeaux Moulis-en-Médoc (13.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Rich, deep vermilion, bright and reassuring, then a classic Poujeaux nose: cigar box, wet stones, and spring flowers. Precocious yet inviting, with hints of Assam tea and licorice lending eloquent support. A broad structure, velvety and refined without forsaking intimations of ripeness and potential to develop. | 91

AJ | Dark black-red. The gruff charm of Poujeaux is evident in this wine’s warm and savory fruits: earthy and full. Open and welcoming, too, and nothing hints at any kind of struggle for ripeness. Mouth-filling and savory, with some satisfying tannins. The acid structure is more muted than in most of the Haut-Médoc wines, for example, so it’s a chewier mouthful, and would clearly lend itself well to food pairing. Plenty of fruit and root spice. A wine of as much clay as gravel. Grand, savory finish—an excellent Poujeaux. 2027–40. | 92

Château Sociando-Mallet Haut-Médoc (14% ABV) | 92

SF | Deep of color and quite potent, this is nonetheless a most impressive Sociando, its weave of fruit and ripe tannin beautifully curated, its acidity cleansing and bright. Nothing to excess in a warm year; plenty of billowing sheen from the broad estuary embellishing its sails. | 93

AJ | Opaque black-red in color; deep scarlet at the meniscus. Frank, fresh, and full, with evident but not over-dominant oak; the effect is almost to give the wine a mintiness. Foursquare, chunky fruits behind. This wine is often “Mr Cabernet,” and so it is in this year: broad-chested, craggy of brow. Meaning very solid, firm, curranty fruit, with ample structure and force. Lovely, poised ripeness sings out. The ripeness is just there, and not a notch over, while happily the oak is less pronounced on the palate than the nose suggested it might be. 2027–37. | 91

Sociando-Mallet Jean Gautreau Haut-Médoc (14% ABV) | 92

SF | Gautreau is a parcel that Sociando indulges, and therefore a wine that appears somewhat excessive in youth. Recently bottled, the 2020 is a case in point. Nevertheless, the inherent richness and tannic shape both impress and signal a happy evolution over the medium term. Some may say that the winemaking overwhelms the ensemble; be that as it may, it is considered and adept and the quality of the raw materials is unassailable. | 91

AJ | Saturated, dense black-red. Just a touch deeper and blacker at its core than the straight Sociando. Not notably oakier, happily; instead, it is still more Cabernet-led, authoritative, brisk, and firm. Indeed, it is shyer than its sibling at this stage, but give it time; everything is sewn in very neatly and inkily, and time will snip the stitches. Concentrated, dense, authoritative, with St-Julien-like purity, “front,” and drive. Grand Cabernet fruit marches out. There is less savoriness here than (for example) in Poujeaux, and the tannins are a little less meaty and sticky than in La Lagune; it’s all about the fruit here, and very fine it is, too. 2028–40. | 92

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN

Château Carbonnieux Cru Classé (14.5% ABV) | 92

SF | A big color for Carbonnieux and with an appropriately indulgent ABV tag; is this the way to go in 2020, a year less stained by excess than say, 2018, but nonetheless witness to drought and unpredictable patterns of rainfall? The tannins are mouth-coating and the fruit demonstrably ripe—too ripe, maybe. Accomplished but lacking in the elegant subtext of nuance that so often delights at this address. | 92

AJ | Deep, dark, and dense black-red, still opaque at the core. Serene, settled, and balanced; this wine seems to have set off on its evolutionary journey more briskly than its peers (color aside, anyway). Gently curranty; and a little touch of unburned peat or cut turf from somewhere in the forest. Ditto on the palate: a grand classic, shapely and settled already, with down-the-line PL fruit freshness and poised edge, and chiseled tannins, too. It’s all done with great assurance, and I have to say I’d love to drink this already-accessible wine, though no one need hurry. If you want to get a fix on “the Pessac red,” too, this would do the trick. Savory afterward. 2026–38. | 92

Domaine de Chevalier Cru Classé (14% ABV) | 94

SF | Deep color; latent power foreshadowed. Less attractive on the day than the second wine, the weight of expectation and structural intensity both foreshadowing rather than revealing. Primary fruit is thus enveloped in oak, and the alcohol is stark and assertive. Everything is in place for another look in five years… and every five years thereafter until the box is empty. | 93

AJ | Dark, dense black-red; opaque at the core. Beautiful aromatic detail here, and everything very deft and well organized: sumptuous and fine. A sense of beautifully judged ripeness; the aromas (fresh, curranty fruits but sweet plum also; dark cherry and dark chocolate) lift like a cloud. Super finesse. A tapestry on the palate, fine-woven and intricate, mid-weight yet concentrated, almost urgent in its freshness yet lush and satisfying, too, once those fruit acids have subsided. Pristine, spotless wine perfectly summarizing this fairy-tale “vineyard in the forest” terroir. 2027–38. | 94

L’Esprit de Chevalier (14% ABV) | 91

SF | Touch of evolution at the rim, but bright and pure. An attractive nose of plum, hearthside, thyme, and raspberry. The aromatic is dappled across the palate; smoky, rich, and subtle. In a minor key as far as anything can be in such a warm year, the diurnals in these arboreal vineyards clearly contributing to the authenticity of the structure and the pleasing grip of acidity. Lacks the concentration of the senior wine (not yet tasted but I dare to presume). Nicely judged, with a soft, resonant herbal kick. | 92

AJ | Dark black-red. Ample graceful charm here: the perfect second-wine overture. The forest is softly expressed; the fruits tender and inviting; all very settled yet fresh and vivacious. Smooth, lively, graceful: lovely lifted and sustained fruits, and it is the fruits that spin the story here. Poised and concentrated, cool yet teased to perfect ripeness. Acids do more structuring work than tannins here, yet they are admirably fruit-bonded. 2026–34. | 90

Clos Marsalette (14% ABV) | 88

SF | Deep vermilion at the core, a hint of garnet at the rim. A warm, broad, and somewhat careless aromatic; carefree, maybe. The palate maintains this laissez-faire attitude, and while the stitching of the garment may be a little loose to the tastes of some, it does reflect the character of a warm, somewhat disparate, vintage emerging from the precocity of youth. Where or not adolescence will suit such a style is open to questioning; we must revisit in a couple of years to find out. | 89

AJ | Dark black-red. The fruits here are in a drier style than for many of its peers, with some ripely vegetal notes. Some cherry in with the currants, and plenty of oak. Pleasing but less classical than many. Full-flavored but almost New World in style: exuberant, primary, and sweet-toned over the top of that zigzag, acid-driven freshness. Some leafiness, too. My score seems unfair in respect of the wine’s concentration, but I have some stylistic qualms; almost lurid. A bit effortful, and the acids linger. 2025–33. | 87

Château de Fieuzal Cru Classé (14% ABV) | 92

SF | Attractive deep vermilion, bright and lively. The nose is equally appealing; pure and generous; ripe but not overly so. Hints of gravel and tobacco betray provenance; the sweetest of betrayals! The palate is elegant and refined, the ripeness of the vintage in no way forsaken but fashioned with deft skill in order to show off the quality of fruit and terroir alike. | 94

AJ | Midnight black. A little bit of reduction when first sniffed, which quickly gives way to classic Pessac-Léognan woodland-copse freshness on a core of sweeter fruit than for many. Lively and enchanting. The palate is dense and earnest, concentrated and long. For me, Malartic and Carbonnieux have given us more stylish and assured vintage iterations, but—gosh—there’s a lot here, so let’s see how things turn out. I find it a little acid-assertive and undigested at this stage, but the score may rise with time. 2028–38. | 89

Château La Mission Haut-Brion Cru Classé (14.5% ABV) | 97

SF | Midnight black. An enigmatic nose, neither sweet nor savory, ethereal yet anchored in the substantive, a generous and ripe harvest propelling the structure. Both facets are magnified on the palate, without for a moment forsaking the tight and beautifully delineated structure, with acidity and tannin compelling and quietly subservient at the same time. Lifted. Luxurious in the most illuminating sense of the word. Harmonious and wrought by a classicism that is not afraid of the ever-warming sun. | 97

AJ | Dark, dense, black-red. The aromatic profile at present is at an earlier stage than the Chapelle, which is delivering more articulately at the moment. This is dark and brooding, full of forest and stone, plum and bread; there are hints of the treats to come (incense and chocolate). Sober and refined, but just a little tight-lipped about its intentions as yet. Dense, detailed, commanding. I won’t write “concentrated,” since that’s not the way this wine works at all; this is all detail and engraving. (Concentration can be a form of shouting or insisting, and no one ever shouts or insists here.) Deft, lovely, and very, very rewarding, with slightly softer and more subdued tannins than I was expecting. The ripeness is perfect, and (as detailed in the Chapelle note) we are well away from the “forest freshness” of so much Pessac-Léognan, though this is still a fine, fresh vintage for La Mission. I don’t like to write things like “ineffably classy,” because it seems so elitist—yet the truth is that terroir is elitist, and that phrase gives you some kind of indication of what you will find here. Perfect shapeliness, energy, and lift, and as much articulacy and allusion as you might have time to search out. Perfectly digestible, too, if only I had the right to swallow at this point. 2028–45. | 97

La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion (14.5% ABV) | 94

SF | Near translucent. Expensive nose, with hints of fig and vanillin buttressing the dark fruit; plenty of tannic support and a persuasive subtext of integrated acidity. Quite a weight for La Chapelle; plenty of reasons to visit, historical and otherwise. Quiet contemplation essential; modest deference in the face of a job very well done, the wine already attractive and close to a display of its pomp. | 93

AJ | Dark black-red. Complex and intricate. This aromatic profile seems understated and a little reserved at this stage, but spend a little time with it and you will quickly see that it has the HB grandeur and sobriety inscribed within it. You just have to realize that NOTHING EVER SHOUTS here. Once you’ve retuned your antenna, you’ll find much to enjoy—from cigar leaf and flowers, to meat jus, sandalwood, and stone; just give the wine time to unfold in the glass. Lovely stuff. Dense and sober, close-grained and detailed, and very much a chip off the old block—indeed barely a chip; this is a very substantial wine in its own right. It is telling its story already, and there is nothing forbidding here at all. A mid-weight, as always, yet with that extra level of articulacy. We step back from the overt freshness of the properties farther south here; this vintage (which sometimes pushes the limits of freshness) suits this slightly warmer wine so well. (The notes are those detailed in the aromatic description, and you might find more.) 2026–42. | 94

Château Malartic Lagravière Cru Classé (14% ABV) | 92

SF | A rich, deep purple hue, with aromatics of black tea, boysenberry, and fig; tightly structured, a little reserved. (A hint of Brett? Surely not.) It is a struggle to identify the essence of the appellation in this vintage; sometimes the ripeness flatters to deceive, sometimes there is a latent leanness that challenges preconceptions and undermines the integrity of identity. Tricky, because the wine is not without merit, for sure. | 91

AJ | Deep, dark black-red. Fresh, sweet, graceful: all the Pessac-Léognan charm but with more cleanly defined fruits than some. White pepper and ylang-ylang behind: lovely aromatic composition here. The ripeness has been sought, and there are rewards for that in terms of charm and articulacy. Yes: ditto on the palate. The freshness is less challenging and better balanced than for some of its peers; there’s a sweet wealth here that permits articulacy and allusion. Quiet but hard-working tannins build the textural wealth. Sound, complete, detailed, and satisfying: an outstanding Malartic, and a great Pessac-Léognan purchase in this vintage. 2027–37. | 93

Château Pape Clément Cru Classé (14% ABV) | 93

SF | Dense color; oak-stained in every sense, something a little metallic undermining, or at least challenging, the potential of fruit expression. Intense and concentrated, for sure, and as one would expect, ripe and robust if structured. Needs time for the oak influence to diminish; thereafter, the question centers on whether the acidity is sufficient to hold up the structure. Hard to say. | 91

AJ | Saturated, midnight black-red: certainly the densest in color of the PLs. Meaty, fat, and warm; this is really the “least forested” of all PLs, with splendid fruit richness and spattering aromatic depths. Lots of spice, too. Snug inside the city, yet it is not without vitality either, and there is ample black-cherry charm here. Dense, ripe, warm, spicy, and more richly tannic (I suspect) than anything else in PL—yet those tannins just melt into the tongue. The freshness-in-ripeness of the vintage is apparent here, too, in that the black-cherry fruit is primeur-fresh and poised. The concentration is very well judged—nothing overdone; and ditto for the oak. This is what we once called a pleasure-bomb but realized for the new Zeitgeist of freshness and shapeliness. Let’s not forget pleasure. (And actually, I am phrasing this debate as if it were all about stylistic decisions—though the truth is that these things reflect site above all.) 2026–40. | 95

ST-EMILION

Château Angélus (14.5% ABV) | 93

SF | A deep oaky core, pencil shavings, graphite, and dark, ripe fruit predominate. There is concentration and impressive integration here; chalky acidity and ripe sinewy tannins; a weave of flowers, glazed cherry, sandalwood, and graphite. A worthy effort from a great name, only a few notches beneath its most illustrious efforts. | 92

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Complex for this vintage: deep, citrus-tinged black fruits, earth, and spice—but discreet oak; ample plant extracts behind. An excellent and refined aroma, worth spending time over. The “fresh charge” of the vintage is fully absorbed here but not providing the dominant note, as it so often does, though there is nothing forced or jammy either. Exuberant, though—you have to like exuberance! Deep, pure, long, driving, and intense on the palate, though the acidity is mastered and fruit-saturated, the oak is proportionate, and the tannins are soft and sumptuous, so the overall effect is affable and charming, if high-focus. An excellent reading of the vintage, and this wine will drink well for 15 years or more, though it is not forbidding now. Amid a welter of different styles in St-Emilion, too, this is classically warm, affable, and friendly—St Emilion as ever was. 2028–43. | 94

Carillon d’Angélus (14.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Deep ruby, bit with a magenta rim. Structurally, as ever, serious for a second wine, its own personality scored by firm tannin and persuasive acidity. Ripe raspberry fruit, summer flowers, and clean balancing acidity. Very complete and eloquent, all in all; a highly successful Carillon. | 91

AJ | Dark black-red. Slightly tarry and phenolic red fruits, but ample freshness, too. Dramatic concentration for a second wine, and a fine, stylish swing of fresh fruit. Pure and dramatic, amply ripe, not too much oak. This will bring great pleasure over the next ten years. 2026–35. | 90

Château Beauséjour 1er Grand Cru Classé (14% ABV) | 90

SF | Deep vermilion, then an oaky aromatic; figs and pine resin behind that, laurel and a hint of juniper. The fruit provides subtle support; the tannins are persuasive here, maybe a little too much so, since the mid-palate is amorphous, almost anonymous, overreaching, but heading in the right direction. | 90

AJ | Dark, saturated black-red. Earthy and warm, sweet-fruited, glowing, and affable: classic St-Emilion virtues. Mellow and warm, with the freshness of the vintage a passive rather than an active note—but there nonetheless. Attractive, mid-weight St-Emilion, with ample balance and finesse, as well as a soft, plushly, fruity core. 2027–34. | 90

Château Bélair Monange 1er Grand Cru Classé (14.5% ABV) | 94

SF | First bottle TCA. Second bottle: Obsidian at the core, deep ruby at the rim. An intriguing wine, its herbal inclinations finely balanced against the dark, ripe fruit, the intrusion of oak only modest in intent. Raspberries, potpourri, crushed pepper, and even a hint of salinity; fennel, maybe. Deft of construction and persuasive of length, an impressive example from a property on the up. | 91

AJ | Deep black-red, opaque to the midpoint. No purple. Bottle 1: Cork-compromised. Bottle 2: Soft, open, subtle. Beef, warm grain, earth—and tender fruits, but they are recessive; it’s the harmony of the whole you take. Gentle, haunting, almost honeyed: unusual intrigue here, and almost a kinky note. But it works, and you sense it reflects something true in the vineyards; hard not to keep going back. A vineyard of sunny sides and fresh sides. Pure, intense, and graceful on the palate, with smoothly chamfered tannins and tender, fruit-succulent acidity. This is a very graceful wine, yet very complete, too, and it is another wine that combines an inner sweetness with poise and freshness to a remarkable extent. Delicious and moreish. Toothsome. (You can’t often write that this year.) Exciting and unusual flavors. 2027–40. | 94

MS | Deepish purple. Rich and vivid and persistent to smell, complex and striking. Full, fresh, finely but firmly tannin-textured, a lovely, harmonious, overall balance with, now, that fine, St-Emilion limestone-plateau chalky imprint and overall restraint. Long, fresh, fine, gently minerally, pure, transparent, and aromatic, with great length and subtlety of flavor, plus enormous tenacity, class, and aromatic persistence. Tenacity, perfume, purity, restraint. Really lovely, long-term Belair. The style pendulum has finally settled for the Moueix’s interpretation, just where it ought to be after the somewhat “trying too hard” early days. Leave a decade at least. 2035–55+. | 96

Château Berliquet Grand Cru Classé (14.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Rich ruby with a soft purple rim. Its aromatics are dominated by punnets of raspberries, soft cherry, and forest floor. The palate enjoys a backdrop of very refined, chalky tannin, a luxurious cushion upon which the fruit, maybe not quite on the same level, can express itself, with a degree of indolence over the next five or so years. Another one to watch! | 91

AJ | Dark black-red, though not saturated or opaque. Very pretty red and black fruits here, with a spice backdrop. Ample lift, purity, and poise. Firm, fresh, pure, and high-focus: a vivacious Berliquet. Lovely tannins here in support of the high-energy though not notably acidic fruit. An outstanding, supremely drinkable effort. 2026–37. | 92

Château Canon 1er Grand Cru Classé (14.5% ABV) | 94

SF | Deep ruby, with a gently viscous rim. The nose is dignified, its seduction technique discreet at the very least; aeration betrays dark fruit, herbs, and hints of spice and wood tannin. Such thoughts, hardly iconoclastic, are confirmed on tasting, when one is impressed by both the weight and the quality of the fruit. Chalky tannins, a strong line of acidity, and the intimations of a subplot that will entertain feverishly before returning the happy taster, legerdemain, to an essence of what one should expect from a high-quality wine, its livery impeccable of design and infallible of purpose. Light of touch but, ultimately, impressive of impact: a most successful example. | 94

AJ | Dark, dense black-purple-red. As for the Croix-Canon, these pure and lifted fruit aromas dominate the wine’s aromatics at this stage to beguiling effect: cherry, blackcurrant, plum, damson, mulberry, all backed by what almost seems to be sweet, aromatic tannin and the season’s freshness. A gorgeous nose, and one of the most instantly charming wines in our tasting. Absolutely as the nose outlined: an essay in fruit and finesse. Another of the [new Burgundians,” all in the upper register but very successfully so. 2027–42. | 94

Croix Canon Grand Cru (14.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Dense ruby, with an immediately seductive nose dominated by raspberry, cherry, and verbena. The oak is discreet, a backdrop, but ripe 2020 Merlot is most definitely on display. Ripe but grippy tannins frame the fruit, with distinctive notes of black tea, licorice, star anise, and fennel all adding to the pleasure quota. A lovely quenching hold on the finish underwrites quality here. | 93

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Wonderful, lively, fresh fruit: a bubbling fountain of cherry and damson. Ultimate pure-fruit pleasure—once you’ve smelled this, you just have to dive in. Graceful, stealthy, svelte, and delicious, this really is the little sister of Canon, with all the same charm in a minor key, with a little less propulsion, structure, and focus. Total deliciousness here, and few second wines are quite as close to the grand vin this year as this one. 2026–32. | 91

Château Canon-la-Gaffelière 1er Grand Cru Classé (13.5% ABV) | 91

SF | Sinewy youthful, spicy, somewhat precocious. With time, the fruit emerges, its quality beyond dispute, with wild strawberry, raspberry and loganberry to the fore. Behind that is the structural integrity bequeathed by firm clay soil, warm and generous in a year such as this but not lacking for the embrace of firm, natural acidity and the promise thereby instilled of a satisfactory development over the medium term, | 91

Château Cheval Blanc 1er Grand Cru Classé A (14.5% ABV) | 96

SF | Dense, deep ruby, with the merest halo to flag incipient youth. The nose betrays bonfires, incense, and dark fruit, chalk, verbena, and a hint of quince, its fruit yielding and generous, red fruit to the fore, but not without a ripe, dark underscore to celebrate a ripe and fecund vintage. The fruit and acidity dance neatly together on the palate, the tannins, despite their intensity, gentle in the middle, and discreet on the finish. A charming Cheval, biding its time in the shadows, just beyond the paddock. | 95

AJ | Dark, dense purple-black, but to my untutored eye, this seems to have the same depth as the Petit Cheval. The aromas are more forceful here than in the Petit Cheval, and more focused, too. The vintage is refracted rather than reflected here—not so much freshness, as giving an unusual direction to the trajectory of the fruit: more alert, more planty. The cream and sweetness is subdued for the time being. It needs longer, of course, but there is great aromatic wealth here, which seems to amplify with time spent in the glass, and in which you could find much (tangerine, linden, carnation). An exciting prospect. And on the palate, too, this gives us much to think about as we savor. It is really daringly light-toned; on a scale of 1–5 for tannin, we seem barely beyond 1.5 or 2, though this may be an effect of the tannin’s silkiness. (See below.) The virtuoso fruit is a very fine reading of the aerial energy of the vintage: all in the upper register, but very complex. Sumptuous and detailed fruits, and such aromatic fruits, too; the acidity is hugely articulate in this sense, though it wouldn’t measure as dominant. A magical wine, virtuoso in the upper register. I admire it; but as a simple sensual being, I almost long for a bit more flesh and texture, a bit more base—and perhaps ignoble—gratification. (However, on retasting against its peers, it is evident that the bass register is there, too; it’s just that one doesn’t notice it at this stage. It’s Cheval Blanc; it can do everything—just give it time to do it.) 2028–48. | 96

Le Petit Cheval (14.5% ABV) | 94

SF | Deep, saturated color, not much “give” at the core; youthful but intense. The nose marries fruit, herbs, crushed rock, and an elegant, savory subtext; most impressive. The quality does not relinquish its hold thereafter; quite the reverse. Flowers and spice and a charming aromatic lift all underscore what is an impressive mid-term wine, everything perfectly poised and nothing trying to hard. No need to try too hard either; everything here falls into place delightfully. A lean, respectful poetry in play here, with everything cleanly juxtaposed and pure of intent. All most appealing. | 94

AJ | Dark, saturated black-red, with ample purple, too, right to the rim. Ooh: sweet, warm, engaging, svelte, and creamy—what a lovely aroma. Truly a chip off the old block here. We haven’t tried a “second wine” aroma of this subtlety and compelling appeal in this tasting: magnificent. Purity, freshness, precision and visceral charm: It has it all. Lovely weight and poise on the palate, though a little bit more nimble on its toes than I was expecting (thus with a little less tannic wealth and cream). It is still utterly gorgeous, supremely stealthy, a complete fairy of a claret but one with a lot to say for itself. So daringly light. Yet spend as long on it as you like, and you won’t find any respect in which it doesn’t deliver, please, and satisfy. 2027–40. | 94

Clos de L’Oratoire Grand Cru (13.4% ABV) | 91

SF | Dense at the core, but bright and welcoming on the rim; youth will not betray this wine, it would seem. The sentiment is echoed on nose and palate alike, the former dignified and complex (figs, plum, hearthside, and jalapeño), the latter succulent and beautifully crafted. The tannins are deft of construction, resolute but long. A nice lift on the finish, reassuring in terms of both the quality of the wine and the potential “freshness” of this warm vintage. All very encouraging. | 91

Château Figeac 1er Grand Cru Classé (14% ABV) | 97

MS | Dark purple. Dense to smell, the blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon core clear and distinctive in the Right Bank context, but fragrant, persistent, subtle, too. Full, fresh, elegant, nicely concentrated, without any excess or extravagance, super-fine in tannin texture. Long, even, vital—a lovely depth of flavor, but absolutely effortless at 14%. Complete, sensuous, packed with flavor; wonderfully elegant, restrained, and with great length to finish, all its vital fruit and mineral fragrance echoed on the aftertaste. Another magnificent expression of this great terroir in its late-teens run of splendor! Leave for 15 years to really begin to enjoy its lavish prospects to the full. 2038–60+. | 97

Le Dôme Grand Cru (13.5% ABV) | 91

SF | A powerful and assertive Dôme, richly saturated, and dominated, as so often, by the juxtaposition of savory oak notes (less persuasive than previously) and a fruit character that leans toward the darker side and yet is redeemed, fascinatingly, by herbs and spice, star anise in particular, but also fennel, clove, and licorice. A distinctive and appealing wine, with no shortage of admirers and no lack of inherent quality; showing nicely in 2020 once again. | 92

AJ | Dark, dense, opaque black-red, with a purple core. Vivid and fresh. The Cab Franc raspberry fruit has seized on the vintage character this year, and this is very aromatic, very fresh, very pungent, very typical of the vintage. The oak needs some time to integrate properly. Concentrated and bright, with searching and vivacious acidity that dominates the palate. The vintage character this year has given Le Dôme a very septentrional profile, but as such, it’s energetic and compelling. Ample, ripe tannins bring balance and ballast. 2027–34. | 90

Château Fombrauge Grand Cru Classé (15% ABV) | 90

AJ | Dark, dense black-red, with purple notes, too. Ample, lively, fresh fruits, with tobacco warmth already. Attractive complexity; some evident oak. An excellent example of its vintage: some sense of mixed ripeness but a wine of attractive density, too, with firm tannins and sound, brisk concentration. A good mid-term buy, and wine already inching off on its evolutionary trajectory. Intriguing that it is 15% ABV, because you don’t get a sense of alcohol wealth at all—indeed, there are fresh tones throughout. 2026–32. | 90

Château La Gaffelière 1er Grand Cru Classé (14% ABV) | 87

AJ | Dark black-red, though not opaque. Warm, rounded, soft, juicy, autumnal, and sweet, but it lacks a bit of purity and refinement. Simple charms here. Ditto on the palate: chunky St-Emilion from what looks like (in this glass) a relatively cool, fresh vintage. Enjoyable and typical of its year, but I wouldn’t wait long. 2026–30. | 87

Château Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac Grand Cru (13% ABV) | 88

SF | Slightly less intense of color and aroma than some of its peers; maybe a hint of reduction is to blame? If, indeed, one is mindful to attribute blame… A little clipped, the fruit dominated by raspberry, cassis, and sloe, the clay underwriting a firm, slightly foursquare texture. | 88

Château Les Grandes Murailles Grand Cru Classé (14.5% ABV) | 91

AJ | Dark, dense black-red; opaque at the core. Showing a little barrel at this stage, but the fruit looks pure and attractive, clean and fresh, with ample black-fruit charm. Attractive density and purity from its site on the plateau in one of its final vintages. The quality of the terroir is evident in the wine’s finishing depth and sinew. Nothing compromised here at all, though the style lacks the precision and finesse of the vanguard. It will provide very enjoyable drinking nonetheless, and what you are getting is all vineyard. 2027–34. | 91

Château Larcis Ducasse 1er Grand Cru Classé (14.5% ABV) | 93

AJ | Dark, dense black-red; purple at the core. Close-grained, earthy, and fresh: harmonious and classical in a year when this wasn’t necessarily easy. Excellent inner wealth, texture, and grain here, and the fruits reflect the clean, fresh turn of the vintage yet also reward with some lusher, riper, and more sensual notes. There’s ample curranty drive to the fruits, too. Fine work. 2027–38. | 93

Château Laroque Grand Cru Classé (14.5% ABV) | 91

SF | Densely saturated, with a nose dominated by oak, dark fruit, and soft spice. Just a hint of surmaturité etched onto the assessment; the latter confirmed by a palate that is both ambitious and generous, still a little lacking in harmony and direction, with a probably unfounded suspicion that the marked citric acidity is not entirely natural. A valiant effort, for all that, tasting well. | 91

AJ | Dark, dense black-red. Lively, fresh, vibrant, and vivid, with palpable freshness here giving lift to the cool cherry and plum fruits. Concentrated, vivid fruit in a driving, fresh style, but close-textured and long. Decidedly cool in flavor, despite the 14.5% ABV—an intriguing feature of this vintage. 2026–32. | 90

La Mondotte 1er Grand Cru Classé (14.5% ABV) | 92

SF | A rich and statuesque Mondotte, more potent than its familial peers as usual, but also, in this instance, more clearly defined, enunciating the virtues of terroir and vintage alike, here manifested by the juxtaposition of ripe, expressive fruit, firm acidity, and ripe, yet stentorian tannins. These will control the destiny of the wine for at least the next five years. No bad thing, from within the framework of such innate quality. | 92

Château Pavie Macquin 1er Grand Cru Classé (14.5% ABV) | 93

AJ | Very dark, saturated, black-red, with a purple core. Very fine aromas here, which seem to combine the freshness, poise, and citrus-peel charm of the season, with warmer, slightly meatier, classical St-Emilion appeal. Excellent work here and a wine with arresting charm and finesse. Dense and plunging on the palate, with all the drive and search that its site tends to create, yet at the same time with a strong sensual appeal thanks to its sagely judged ripeness and élevage. Perfumed, long, vivid, pure, and head-turning—yet fresh as you like. 2028–40. | 93

Château Quinault L’Enclos Grand Cru Classé (14% ABV) | 92

SF | Deeply saturated color, the faintest hint of amber at the rim. The nose is generous, almost evolved, figs, quince, and chalk dust accompanying the more usual fruit descriptors, the latter dominated by black and blue berries. The palate is approachable, broad, clean of definition and not lacking for ripeness of fruit. Firm acidity and an impressive length. A medium-term wine, showing well on the day and clearly on the up. | 91

AJ | Dark, dense, black-purple-red. Perfumed and citrusy, but earthy, too. Root spice and citrus dominate, intriguingly. An attractive aroma: freshly scented, all aerial, but with real finesse. Gosh, this is a lovely wine—one of the new generation and all perfumed charm. Light and dancing on the palate. Perfectly ripe for all that; super-elegant tannins. Another of the “Burgundy-styled” wines that are challenging all of our St-Emilion preconceptions. 2027–35. | 93

Château Quintus Grand Cru (15.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Less demonstrative than its Dragon bodyguard, but nonetheless assertive and with a pleasing, balancing acidity; a floral backdrop and ripe fruit to the fore. Evident high levels of alcohol and a rich, robust finish, slightly smoky, not lacking structurally and, finally, elegant on the finish. | 91

AJ | Dark black-red, though once again not quite opaque at the core. Pure, fresh fruits, with a fine spectrum of sweet tones, too: raspberry, mulberry, bilberry. Subtle oak lends a succulent undertow. Serenely attractive. Lush, full, vivid, and vibrant: one of the fruitiest and more exuberant of our St-Emilion cohort. It’s a very different style from Haut-Brion, but that is perhaps what the vineyards deliver, and the quality of those fruits is excellent. It has a subtle, discreet tannin profile: vivacious drinkability to the fore here. 2026–37. | 92

Château Troplong Mondot 1er Grand Cru Classé (14.5% ABV) | 94

SF | Attractive, deep-purple color, lacking the foreboding and the saturation of some. An accordingly delightful aromatic: plum, damson, sloe, and spice; crushed pepper, thyme, and a hint of licorice. The palate shows off the virtues of Merlot from the plateau, clay and sunshine in a felicitous conspiracy to foster ripeness and maturity, complexity, and a dextrous weave of tannin. Very promising, very complete, a finely judged and articulate piece of work. | 94

AJ | Dark black-red, though not quite opaque at the core. Fine-grained and enticing, perfumed and elegant: pretty fruit with a floral lacework about it. The ripeness seems to be sustained and impeccable, without any leafiness; and the level of allusion is already impressive. Lively, light, and dancing on the palate, and very definitely one of the “new Burgundians” in Bordeaux: astonishing how different this reading of the terroir of Troplong Mondot is compared to the Valette era. I have to say this is very convincing: pure, sustained, bright, and articulate, without any extraneous notes: Troplong Mondot in a different dimension, and one well suited to this vintage. Perhaps in the end this is the truer reading. I don’t know, but well done for trying, for asking the question. It is a disarmingly graceful, ballerina-like Bordeaux from the highest site in the appellation. Svelte, chillable, even fish-friendly. Why not? It still has lots to say and intense pleasure to bring. The most daring Right Bank wine of those we have tried, alongside La Conseillante. 2027–40. | 93

Château Trotte Vieille 1er Grand Cru Classé (15% ABV) | 92

SF | Dark and muscular, an assertive Trotte Vieille, oak to the fore, controlling the dark, ripe fruit and lending a structure that, while it is perfectly respectful of its many varied components, perhaps does not do justice to this prime site and to the vagaries of the Merlot grape in such distinguished terroir, for all the warmth of the midday sunshine in 2020. | 91

AJ | Deep, purple-black-red. Sweet, warm, meaty, and lifted, with lovely purity and freshness of fruit. Lots of charm here in the fresh, pristine style. Fresh yet sweet-fruited, defined with great grace and purity. Delicious, ripe acidity provides as much structuring force as the soft, tender tannins; the core of fruit is lyrical and delicate. An excellent reading of the vintage. 2027–34. | 92

POMEROL

Château Certan de May (14.5% ABV) | 94

SF | Raven-black, very imposing; a tower of strength. The nose is typically seductive: dark fruit, compote, vanillin, and a hint of cigar box. The palate opens up beautifully, both red and black fruit leading the charge, with peonies and cardamom and, behind that, even a hint of lavender. Broad and self-assured, the tannins a chalky sweep of disciplined nurture, the acidity discreet and buttressing. The notes of white tobacco on the finish are beautifully complementary and underline the quality of the Merlot in 2020 in the heart of Pomerol. | 93

AJ | Dense, saturated black-purple-red. Lovely, creamy Merlot plum fruits here, with tender cassis, too. Fragrant and soft, brimful of poised but not nervous or over-insistent ripeness. Disarming charm, as one hopes for from Pomerol. Ditto on the palate. This is softer than many, though it clearly has an ample bassline. The fruits are pure, creamy, and tender, with some stony finesse to them; it’s shapely, chic, and elegantly crafted. Moderately rather than powerfully concentrated, but its balance will preserve it, and it will drink deliciously from the off. Haunting citrus-peel notes afterward. 2028–40. | 94

Château Clinet (15% ABV) | 92

SF | Imperious of color, dense and tight at the rim. Compote, vanillin, and ripe fruit dominate the attack, cocoa and late-season roses behind, intense and penetrating. The tannic web, though cushioned rather than astringent, dominates the palate, with both the ripeness of the fruit and the finely gravel-scented acidity both merely supportive at this stage. The Clinet personality is usually somewhat compromised (in the best possible sense) at this stage, and there is therefore no cause for concern. Quite the contrary; this one appears to be very nicely set up to ascend the ranks. | 92

AJ | Dark, saturated black-red, and with more purple than its second-wine sibling. Powerful fruits, driving and structured; dimpled plums and a brandy keg in the background. Dense, rich, a little stewy. Impressive in its own way, but I would prefer a little more grace, purity, and freshness. 2027–34. | 91

Fleur de Clinet (14% ABV) | 90

SF | Vermilion at the core, with the slightest hint of magenta at the rim. A youthful nose dominated by oak; vanillin and hints of smoke and tar; behind that, blackberry, fig, and tea, maybe a sprig of mint. The palate is broad-brushed, slightly diffuse, with damson fruit to the fore, softly controlling tannins, and a finely tapered finish, the aromatic leitmotif cascading down the structure. | 90

AJ | Deep, dark, saturated black-red, though with a little less purple than some. Honestly, for me, this is slightly stringy and dry in aroma, though I don’t quite know why. I don’t smell fresh, ripe fruits here, and the fruits there are, seem confit. On the palate, this is a relatively simple and straightforward wine, though well structured and with ample, ripe fruits in confit style. I wouldn’t keep it for long, though it is enjoyable in an unusual style. (No privet here.) 2027–32. | 89

Château La Conseillante (14% ABV) | 94

SF | A big, brooding color, with equally contemplative aromatics, which today recall dark fruit, licorice, and the faintest hint of saddle leather. Tomorrow, it may be something different altogether; complexity is all! Generosity and excellence taken as read, however, as is the case here. The only criticism focused on youth, which is of course veiled praise, as one infers the transition of the slightly raw and edgy fruit character to the full Pomerol experience. Layers of silky tannin and a bedrock of pure acidity caress the aromatic potential and signal a felicitous mid- to long-term evolution. | 93

AJ | Dense, dark, opaque black-purple, right to the rim. A looker. Lots of aromatic lift, here: a rising waft of damson, bramble, and mulberry; a touch of malt; sleek, supple leather. Very quickly out of its primary stage—or a primary stage with ample aromatic intricacy. Magnetic aromas. Full, athletic, and lively, and very vivid, juicy, high-energy flavors. The fresh intensity of the vintage is all over this wine. Wonderful vintage fidelity. This is also an interesting wine in that it is ready to embrace freshness, intensity, and vitality in a way that few other wines in Pomerol yet do—a glimpse of a new way forward in Pomerol, if you like. (Or perhaps, of course, it was just what the vineyards surrendered this year.) It tastes, if you like, as if it was grown at a slightly higher altitude. There’s nothing missing in terms of weight or texture, but that is the nature of its energy. A fascinating, cutting-edge 2020. 2028–40. | 95

Château du Domaine de L’Eglise (15% ABV) | 90

SF | Dense, inky core, a narrow rim conceding purple. The nose is plush, precocious, swaggering: plums and damson, hints of cocoa and vanillin. Self-assured. The palate is far from resolved, the tannins now a little overbearing, the calibration apparently challenged by a structure that is all-embracing, maybe too grand for the work in progress. This will need careful attention, despite its very obvious appeal on first blush. | 90

AJ | Dark black-red, though without the opacity and fierce depth of some of its peers. A slight reduction note here; the wine at this stage seems to lack purity, drive, and lift, though it has ample, soft-focus, sweet fruits. I will try again in ten minutes. Nothing reduced at that point, but the fruits (blackcurrant more than plum for me) seem a little reserved. Not quite singing at the four-year point, but this might be a shell from which the wine will later emerge. In the mouth, this has much better fruit purity than the nose suggested: long, direct, clean, lively, with firm tannins and bright acidity. That acidity comes to dominate the finish, which is clean and fresh. A mid-term choice in my opinion. 2026–34. | 90

Château L’Eglise-Clinet (14.5% ABV) | 95

MS | Deep purple. A dense, blackberry-fruited nose; beautifully fresh and with a very fine, firm tannin. A lovely core fruit, pulpy blackberry in flavor, noticeably, finely mineral in aromas alongside the fruit abundance. Mouth-coating but absolutely without excess, tenacious, vivid, spicy and very long to finish. A typically dense, elegant, subtly muscular yet refined and most complete expression of Pomerol. Lovely example. Leave it a decade, and ideally even longer. 2035–50+. | 95

Château L’Enclos (14.5% ABV) | 90

SF | Ruby vermilion. The nose is a little scorched, slightly raw; hints of resin without being herbaceous. The palate is workmanlike, a touch austere, the red-fruit character espied as if behind a curtain, the veil of tannin all-embracing at the moment. | 88

AJ | Dark, dense, opaque black-purple; purple-red at the meniscus. Solid, chunky, fresh, and fair: a scent of sweet dust and plums in a basket; a sprig of thyme on top. Attractive in soft-focus style. Vivid, deep, full, with uncomplicated and highly attractive dark-plum ripeness. The very soft tannins bring fullness as much as structure. You can see the cool acidity of 2020 in the sense of vegetation behind the wine, but there is nothing green and it communicates as vintage style. Delicious and uncomplicated. 2027–39. | 91

Château La Fleur-Pétrus (15% ABV) | 95

SF | A dense, inscrutable color and then a regal aromatic, dominated by gravel, plum stones, roses, and soft vanillin. Seductive and caressing the imagination before one even tastes. This experience, as always, refines the perception, in this instance heightening the fruit quality, with damson and loganberry coming to the fore, hints of lapsang and fig and, further back, graphite and peat. A beautifully tapered wine, generous yet already elegant of construction and clearly demarcated in terms of direction. | 95

AJ | Dark, dense black-purple; opaque at the core. Warm, ample, enticing, and harmonious: serenely sweet fruits here, without the bolt of aromatic acidity you sometimes find in other wines; earth and root-spice behind. Ample plump enchantment here, an eminent Pomerol classic. The vintage hallmark of freshness is apparent as much in the liveliness of the fruit as anything else. Appealing aromatics. A lively cascade of supple, milky-soft fruit, but lively despite that structural softness—some raspberry, as well as the black fruits. Tender and accessible, yet with ample gathered force; stony, fine, almost gauzy to finish. A warmer, more tender 2020 Pomerol than most of its peers. Glorious drinking—the bottles will empty… 2028–42. | 95

Château Gazin (14.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Deep vermilion, the calm of the wine-dark sea, with appropriately elegant aromatics of strawberry leaf, tobacco, and thyme. An effortless reassurance offered, a quiet aristocratic pedigree. The essence of Gazin, magnified on the palate by a gravelly vista of charm, the red fruit thereby bolstered and discreetly cushioned, the weave of acidity holding everything neatly in place. Elegance and charm, showing off the best of the vintage by way of a bonus. | 92

AJ | Dark, dense, opaque black-red with a purple core. Warm, earthy, sweet, in exuberant rather than perfumed style. Fine aromatic tenacity of fruit nonetheless, with coffee cream and pine behind. Mouth-filling, serious, and densely fruited on the palate, and still strutting its primary fruit. There is little layering or secondary allusion as yet. Very satisfying and promising as such. 2028–40. | 92

Château Hosanna (15% ABV) | 94

SF | Deeply saturated, with a nose recalling autumnal bonfires and the medicine cupboard as much as it does the fruit groves of Charente. No lack of authority and magisterial power on display here. The palate is almost careless of such powerful intimations, however, its fruit character descanting with distinct joie de vivre and a voice of genuine exultant pleasure. Praise be! The tannins and acidity are neatly woven, the crescendo of the finish elegantly scaled, firm and resolute, certainly not lacking for expressive joy. | 94

AJ | Dark, serene, purple-black-red; opaque at the core. Very attractive aromas of sweet black fruits, unlit cigar leaf, baking bread, and lanolin: fine, aquiline aromatic composition. Just a touch of freshening box or privet, which you don’t find in La Fleur-Pétrus. Graceful, tender, and pure on the palate: truly lyrical Pomerol, with wonderfully serene fruits and impeccable soft tannins. On the palate, I don’t see the privet note at all, as if the fruits finally surrendered a flavory sweetness in their maceration exchanges that they weren’t minded to do aromatically. Complete, harmonious, and disarming—a Pomerol for Burgundy lovers. 2027–43. | 95

Château Lafleur (15% ABV) | 96

SF | Deep at the core, midnight-black; a cardinal’s robe on its shoulders. The nose is a little closed, with more of the Franc tapenade and woodsmoke, laurel and petrichor, rather than violets and cassis today. A function of youth. The palate broods with equal intensity, its sinews stretched, its musculature posed but disinclined to show off that much today. Cocoa and black coffee, hearthside chats and bucolic walks; much more to come, much of it already discerned through the structural weave. | 94

AJ | Dense, saturated black-red, almost to the rim. A glimpse of midnight. Vivid, earthy, sappy, lively—wow, it’s amazing how the Pomerols all differ clearly from one another this year. This seems to convey some of the urgency and freshness of La Conseillante, but in a totally different way: more darkly, with a livid streak; more densely, with a shattering or compressing of its raw materials as if to extract the liveliness that lay within them, in their cores. La Conseillante was very fresh and aerial; this is more brooding and saturnine. I find it almost a bit disconcerting at present: sweet and charming in one sense but challenging in another. You can find much here: ripe plum, black raspberry, the memory of ferments, sandalwood, fenugreek, and saffron. But a touch confit, too. As the nose, so the palate: dense, deep, searching, articulate, allusive—but unusual and challenging. Lovely, soft, enrobing tannins, and the fruit core seems both pure but allusive, driving, multivalent. Definitely a wine to look at again as it evolves, as it may be going through something of a brooding stage at present. Splendid depth and textural presence in a year in which some producers have gone “daringly light.” 2028–40. | 95

MS | Inky purple. There is a density and mass to the scent here that is of a quite different order from the Pensées, not so much stronger, as with an impression of much more matter, presence; as yet very tight, very closed, faintly reductive, but with a lovely, subtle, mineral character; full, rich, fresh, particularly fine in its gently firm tannin, a most complete, long-term balance; here is a mouth-coating, “searching,” tenacious, blackberry-sweet mouthful, succulent, racy, packed with flavor and yet so effortlessly expressed. All the while, there is just a touch of alcohol warmth and firmness, and there is an aftertaste of great, fragrant length, markedly gravelly but fruit-infused, too. Magnificent, long-term wine. Effortlessly fine. A very tight bud as yet, so best leave at least 15–20 years, if you are lucky enough to have access. 2040–60+. | 98

Les Pensées de Lafleur (15% ABV) | 93

SF | Deep aubergine color, just a hint of garnet at the rim. The nose is magnificent in its generosity, unfailing in its complex diversity; black tea suddenly morphs into licorice and then we are back to cassis and acacia; a most engaging feast of expectation. The palate is equally seductive, with Cabernet Franc tobacco complexity to the fore, behind that, plummy ripeness, then notes of Assam tea, incense, and summer flowers. Unfailingly generous, always challenging; food for thought, one may infer from name and the taste alike. Excellent. | 94

AJ | Dark, dense, purple-black, though less saturated than many. Warm and attractive, with almost a baked-plum note. It’s attractive, but it’s unusual in this vintage—a total contrast, for example, to La Conseillante. Lively, fresh, balanced, and poised: lots of plum fruits with some textural ballast and very ripe acidity. Delicious and satisfying, but there seems to be a bigger gap than usual between Pensées and Lafleur this year, and I think this will be a sound near-term to mid-term choice in 2020. 2027–31. | 91

MS | Inky purple. Dense, fairly closed; almost raspberry fruit in character to smell, its Cabernet Franc subtlety very apparent. Rich and full, the immediate presence of 15% alcohol clear, and yet with an overall seemingly mid-weight presence, gently fresh, very discreetly tannic. A long, subtle, complex wine, beautifully defined by its fresh acidity, pure, transparent, and vivid. Cabernet Franc-subtle, fragrant, and racy, at once juicy and mineral-infused, with lovely, gently scented length to finish. You could drink it young, but best leave it at least a decade from now to really begin the best conversation. 2035–50+. | 93

Les Perrières de Lafleur Bordeaux Supérieur 2020 (15% ABV) | 92

SF | Deep aubergine color, bright and full of life. The nose is attractive: red fruit, soft spice, and hints of juniper, thyme, and laurel. Very complex, but gently seductive, the weave of oak magnificent and yet subtle at the same time. The palate descants depth, potential, and generosity, with fruit, spice, and vanillin pleasingly enjoined and an intimation of approachability rehearsed in acknowledgement of sheer quality. | 94

AJ | Dark, dense, purple-black; opaque at the core to purple at the rim. Warm, sweet, enticing. Not hugely focused but the aromatic charm invites sipping. Supple, lush, fruit-first claret, with attractive, poised ripeness. Successful fruit definition (damson, as well as blackcurrant) is the main story, but there is some soft tannic support, and the acidity has the nimble incision typical of 2020, chasing each mouthful along. 2026–36. | 89

Château Lafleur Gazin (15% ABV) | 91

MS | Deep purple. Rich and relatively powerful to smell. Full, moderately concentrated, fresh in acidity and finely tannic; nicely balanced, its alcohol notwithstanding. Elegant, flowing, fine-textured; freshly floral fruit in character, long to taste, and with nice, fragrant length. Nothing excessive, a touch of warmth, yes, but no more; an attractive, classy, upper-mid-rank Pomerol. You could broach this with pleasure already, but it will be even better in both texture and bouquet with another couple of years’ bottle age. 2025–37+. | 91

Château Trotanoy (15% ABV) | 94

SF | Typically dense in color and inclination. Firm and robust, the fruit somewhat mute at the moment, the Merlot character more subdued than for some its peers; patience, as always, is encouraged at this famous address. The inherent structure is certainly impressive. | 92

AJ | Dark, dense, saturated black-red, and midnight-black at the core. Classic Trotanoy beefiness or slabbiness of aroma—a gruff effusion of fruit by comparison, for example, with the Klee-like, promenading, sweet fruits of La Fleur-Pétrus. But there’s plenty there, just a little inky-fresh this year: an urgent appeal. Dense and full on the palate, exactly as the nose suggested; lovely site differentiation here, by comparison with La Fleur-Pétrus. That weight and concentration says “take me seriously”… and of course we do; a 2020 for long aging. 2029–45. | 94

Vieux Château Certan (14.5% ABV) | 95

MS | Inky purple. Currently closed, but a fine, scented, subtle prospect. Rich and concentrated, beautifully fresh in acidity, finely firm in tannin, a “modern classic” style, very nicely, completely balanced. Long, close-grained, vividly black-fruit in flavor, complex, aromatic, even, elegant; a particularly composed, refined, and rewarding wine, full of Cabernet Franc perfume, very long to taste, very persistently fragrant to finish. Lovely, long-term Pomerol. Leave it ten years minimum to reap its real rewards. Absolutely beautiful. 2034–50+. | 95

SAUTERNES / BARSAC

Château Coutet 1er Cru (13.5% ABV) | 90

SF | Soft gold, with a nose of almond and coconut essence, a touch confected maybe. Summer and spring flowers, barley-sugar, and melted butter; firm acidity, hints of mango and guava, a tropical mouthfeel beyond the acidity, the botrytic subtext written in relatively faint ink; a worthy effort, nonetheless, in a tricky year. | 90

AJ | Deep, lush gold. Softly mentholated nose, with barley-sugar notes and a sweet hay freshness. Gently enticing. Vivid and fresh, with a little more focus than the nose suggested. Bright and tangy, with some succulence and concentration, too. At present, though, neither long nor notably allusive. Might this Coutet have secret aromatics and a hidden lushness up its sleeve? Perhaps—in which case expect a higher score later. 2026–35. | 90

Château Doisy-Daëne 2ème Cru (13.5% ABV) | 92

SF | Mid-gold, pleasing viscosity. Nose of plum, damson, and coconut, reasonable botrytic penetration for a tricky year. The palate is dominated by marmalade, gingerbread, and apple, with hints of honeysuckle and slate; one senses a huge effort to achieve this concentration, but both the acidity and the fairly impressive levels of residual sugar have been achieved naturally and the result is to be applauded. | 91

AJ | A lush, rich, bright gold, significantly more deeply hued than some of its peers. Roundly honeyed and more overtly sweet than the Etoiles, though at this stage the Etoiles is showing more aromatic focus and detail. Very lush on the palate, balanced by high-impact acidity—though that acidity is rounded, fruit-saturated, and supportive, so the balance isn’t crisp and brisk but open, triggered, and mellow. Warm, soft, tender, with ample honeyed sweetness; packed with apricot, peach, and nectarine, too. An unusually lavish Barsac. 2026–34. | 92

Château Doisy-Védrines 2ème Cru (13% ABV) | 90

SF | Soft gold, pale at the rim. The nose betrays pineapple, orchard fruit, and hints of butterscotch and fig. The palate is not marked by botrytis, and as a consequence it cloys a little, with the sweetness not striking an ideal harmony with the latent acidity. The result, for all that, is accomplished and pleasing, with fruit, acidity, and sugar all nicely held in check and the resulting wine harmoniously composed. | 90

AJ | Bright mid-gold. Lush, sweet, and honeyed, with a creamy note beneath. Very gratifying and sensually enticing. Vivid acidity almost has the upper hand in this generous yet elegant dessert Barsac. The texture is open-pored and the style both vibrant but accessible. Look out for almond and marzipan complexities behind the honeyed apricot fruits. 2025–34. | 90

Château Guiraud 1er Cru (13.5% ABV) | 91

SF | Light, soft, vanillin color. Aromatics focus on quince, barley-sugar, and coconut; orchard fruit and grape skin; little evidence of botrytis and notably restrained in terms of its sweetness. Finishes abruptly and lacks botrytic identity. Not much more intensity than its putative second wine. | 88

AJ | Very bright and pale: a gleaming straw-gold. Quite a contrast to the Guiraud of old. Fine, poised, gingery, and nuanced, with a discreet botrytized charm. A classy nose, though quiet. Fresh and vibrant. Not an unctuous style—indeed, almost demi-sec—yet very good in that style; clean, sappy sweetness backed by almost-crisp acidity. Not the Loire Valley, of course, but glancing in that direction; an atypically attractive Sauternes in this tricky vintage. I love its precision, vivacity, and perfume. 2027–34. | 93

Château Rabaud-Promis 1er Cru (13.5% ABV) | 90

SF | Straw-gold, medium-plus intensity, with a nose dominated by coconut, quince, and almond paste. A touch of botrytis, but not more; the palate appears a little strained, its attack buttery and decadent, the subplot lacking focus and fruit, somewhat diffuse of temperament. | 90

AJ | Bright, pale gold, with silver glints. Another leading Sauternes where the aromatic emphasis at this stage is on plants and herbs rather than luscious fruits. Intricate and attractive notes of linden and verbena, with a light honey wash. Tangy and sweet, without a lot of fruit intricacy on the palate, and the subtle herbal notes don’t quite make up. Plenty of sweetness for all that, though, so in the short term this will please. 2026–34. | 90

Château de Rayne Vigneau 1er Cru (14% ABV) | 90

SF | Mid-gold, with a soft rim and medium viscosity. The nose hints at relatively modest success in terms of botrytis; nonetheless, a degree of coconut and cream sweetness, all rounded off by something approaching passerillage. Orange blossom, butterscotch, and quince, soft honey and lime essence, the focus very much on the mid-palate, which is silky and accomplished—that is rather more than can be said for the overall ensemble, which is somewhat fragile. | 88

AJ | Sound gold, clear and bright, with old-gold glints. Fresh, creamy, with attractive glycerol charm; some green-malt and chamomile-lawn notes lend further intrigue. Generous, full, open; in the end, rather herbal, but this wine makes a good effort at convincing along the lines decreed by classicism. Look out for honeyed melon and a hint of pineapple; the acidity is vibrant, too. 2028–37. | 91

Château Rieussec 1er Cru (13.5% ABV) | 91

SF | Pale gold in color, watery at the rim. A nose of coconut and almond essence, yellow plum and barley sugar; quince and pecan, maple syrup, and orchard fruit. Little if any botrytic influence at all, and only modest concentration on the finish. Accomplished winemaking but far from memorable. | 89

AJ | Bright and pale, with bright, yellow-gold glints. Almost a note of bacon-fat here, over luscious marzipan sweetness: appealing if soft-focus. Supple, soft, generously sweet, with botrytis and butter and lanolin all evident. Perhaps the most generously sweet wine of the year, and a sound landmark as such. 2027–35. | 92

Château Suduiraut 1er Cru (14% ABV) | 93

SF | Medium-gold color. Soft at the helm; vanillin, pineapple, and quince, a hint of barley sugar and a level of alcohol impressive for this vintage in any event. A pleasing, honeyed finish and a twist of welcome acidity as one digs for the home key. | 91

AJ | A deeper color than most of its first-growth peers: buttercup yellow. Rich, buttery, mellow, and articulate: lush honey over fine peach and nectarine fruits. This is the real thing in a year when it seems quite hard to track it down. Generous, sumptuous, mellow, and full, with extravagant sugars but vibrant acidity, too, and with better complexity and nuance than all of its peers. A genuinely successful Sauternes in a difficult vintage. Honey is the overwhelming flavor note, but there is wax and caramel too. The fruits are more recessive, but you’ll find dried apricot and mango. Fine efforts, here, as ever. 2028–38. | 94